Skinny European taper shaft vs standard size taper shaft

Getting a quality straight shaft is always important but tapers become (or are) more of a preference to the individual. Everyone is looking for the magic shaft but no two shafts will ever play the same because of wood characteristics, even if they have the same specs. I can put some supposedly quality LD shafts on a lathe and feel flat spots that you can't really feel in normal playing settings and if most knew that they wouldn't play with it at all. I still play with natural shafts and have no problem with them. For instance, I like 12.5mm but I have a 12.25 that's stiffer and has a little longer taper. I know that some very well known pros will buy a 20 or 30.00 shaft, take it over to and have a particular tip put on and go win the major tournament they are in, without ever worring about taper or anything else. Why is that? because they go to a table for a little while and get to know the shafts playing characteristics (deflection) and adjust to it. So which ever you choose, spend time learning the shaft. Pay particula attention to deflection from different shot set ups. The OB's feel good on the lathe but their major competitor is another issue (the older ones are fine, just seems to be the newer ones) so get something made here in the states.
 
They say european taper is more uncomfortable for closed bridge users, but if its a small enough diameters its not an issue. I think the european taper is best for smaller diameters so the cue is not as whippy (z2 and I3 shafts).

I have an I3 which is a european taper and I love it, glides nicely through a closed bridge.

In your case the ob/pro are diameter differences, 11.75mm works perfect for me, can be very precise with spin.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top