Sledgehammer Tip

Fliedout

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've noticed that some players have ground down the tips of their Sledgehammers flat, presumably to reduce miscues. I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Is it a good idea, can I do it myself, and what sort of equipment would I need? (That phenolic tip is awfully hard.) Thanks.
 
Fliedout said:
I've noticed that some players have ground down the tips of their Sledgehammers flat, presumably to reduce miscues. I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Is it a good idea, can I do it myself, and what sort of equipment would I need? (That phenolic tip is awfully hard.) Thanks.


I believe the purpose of flatting the tip of your break cue is to get a more controlled hit on the cue ball. When the tip is flat, you are more likely to hit center, and not miscue as you previously stated. It also aids in the execution of jumping the cueball, assuming the break cue is a 3-piece jump cue. As far as flatening the tip, I'm not sure exactly. You may want to check your local pool hall.
 
AceHigh said:
I believe the purpose of flatting the tip of your break cue is to get a more controlled hit on the cue ball. When the tip is flat, you are more likely to hit center, and not miscue as you previously stated. It also aids in the execution of jumping the cueball, assuming the break cue is a 3-piece jump cue. As far as flatening the tip, I'm not sure exactly. You may want to check your local pool hall.


Go to someone who does tips .On a lathe and have them turn it .playing with a flat break give better cantrol on the CB..Less slideing . :cool:
 
Sandpaper works. If you want any sort of curve to it, you can cut a piece of electrical PVC in half, then cut it to about 8 inches in length. Then hold a piece of sandpaper inside the curve with your thumb. (Cut sandpaper into strips with scissors 8" long and wide enough to fit inside the PVC.)

I use 220 grit sandpaper to resurface an already shaped tip. And 100 grit sandpaper to do the initial shaping.

I use a quarter shape for my breaking cue, but had trouble with miscues when breaking with a phenolic tip, so went with a quarter shaped Tiger break/jump tip and have not had any problems with miscuing since.

Electrical PVC inside sizes as they relate to coin sizes....
Dime (1/2")
Nickel (3/4")
Quarter (1")
Half dollar (1 1/4")
Billiard ball (2")
 
Billy_Bob said:
Electrical PVC inside sizes as they relate to coin sizes....
Dime (1/2")
Nickel (3/4")
Quarter (1")
Half dollar (1 1/4")
Billiard ball (2")

Man that is probably the best piece of info I have seen in a LONG time...thanks Billy Bob!

And I have flattened my sledgehammer, or I should say I had a cue repair guy do it, and it has helped TREMENDOUSLY. I really recommend it. I don't understand why the heck that thing came with a dime shape...heck I don't even use that on my playing cue, yet.

Shorty
 
Shorty said:
...I have flattened my sledgehammer, or I should say I had a cue repair guy do it, and it has helped TREMENDOUSLY. I really recommend it. I don't understand why the heck that thing came with a dime shape...


I was advised by Bunjee that a dime shape for a phenolic tip was best for jumping and note that they recommend the dart method.

But a dime shape for breaking I would think would be prone to a lot of miscueing. Heck I miscued with a phenolic quarter shaped break tip about once a week, and that is once too many times. I never tried flat.

Is your tip flat flat, or does it have some curve to it?
 
Billy_Bob said:
I was advised by Bunjee that a dime shape for a phenolic tip was best for jumping and note that they recommend the dart method.

But a dime shape for breaking I would think would be prone to a lot of miscueing. Heck I miscued with a phenolic quarter shaped break tip about once a week, and that is once too many times. I never tried flat.

Is your tip flat flat, or does it have some curve to it?

Considering how little I use my cue for jumping, I guess it makes sense how I had it flattened. I prefer to kick at balls.

It is slightly flatter than a nickel. I just found this works best for me. I am hitting the ball as close to center, maybe a hair below and putting all the "muscle" into I can. This is primarily my 8 ball break. I have not played much 9 ball with it yet...but I will do the same I am sure, just break from a different place on the table.

Shorty
 
I personally prefer a breaking cue over a jump break cue. I feel that the jump joint, especially if it is quick release, weakens the integrity of the cue, and alters the balance. Do you think having a big piece of joint hardware which is not permanently jointed together just before the grip also muffle the feedback and the feel of the cue. What are your thoughts?

Regards,
Richard
 
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I'm sitting here reading this thread and wondering if I'm doing something wrong. I miscue sometimes just like everyone else. But it is usually when I'm hitting a regular shot using a lot of spin. I can't remember the last time I miscued on the break (knocking on wood) and I don't use a soft break either. I hit just ever so slightly below center of the cue ball to get it to stop or come back up to 1 foot when it hits the rack. Also my bridge hand is no more than 6-7 inches from the cue ball.

You all that are talking about miscuing on the break, what kind of off center hit are you using that causes this. Is it on purpose or are you just swinging that hard that you don't know exactly where the cue tip is going to hit the cue ball?
 
CaptainJR said:
I'm sitting here reading this thread and wondering if I'm doing something wrong. I miscue sometimes just like everyone else. But it is usually when I'm hitting a regular shot using a lot of spin. I can't remember the last time I miscued on the break (knocking on wood) and I don't use a soft break either. I hit just ever so slightly below center of the cue ball to get it to stop or come back up to 1 foot when it hits the rack. Also my bridge hand is no more than 6-7 inches from the cue ball.

You all that are talking about miscuing on the break, what kind of off center hit are you using that causes this. Is it on purpose or are you just swinging that hard that you don't know exactly where the cue tip is going to hit the cue ball?

they are talking about miscuing using the phenolic tip/ferrules.

although i have to agree a little here with the cap, i have a phenolic tip/ferulle on my break cue i've been using for months. i've miscued once with it. alot of times when i can't seem to squat the cue in the middle of the table i will use a little sidespin towards the side of the table i'm breaking from and i still have no problem miscuing with sidespin.

make sure its chalked well. if you're still miscuing, its not the tip......its the stroke.

thanks

VAP
 
vapoolplayer said:
they are talking about miscuing using the phenolic tip/ferrules.

although i have to agree a little here with the cap, i have a phenolic tip/ferulle on my break cue i've been using for months. i've miscued once with it. alot of times when i can't seem to squat the cue in the middle of the table i will use a little sidespin towards the side of the table i'm breaking from and i still have no problem miscuing with sidespin.

make sure its chalked well. if you're still miscuing, its not the tip......its the stroke.

thanks

VAP

With the thread title I forgot to mention that I use a dime shaped phenolic tip.
 
whitewolf said:
Just one more reason I will most likely never buy a Sledgehammer break cue.

If you file it down how do you know that the shaft will not break, or that the tip will not crumble into dust? Will this void the warranty if there is any?


The SH is entirely warrantied for life under normal use.

I break HARD, and have not miscued on the break with mine. I haven't flattened the tip at all. In fact I like the dime shape, it helps putting spin on the ball when jumping. If I was miscueing I would look at my stroke first, equipment second.

~DC
 
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