Southwest shaft question?
- Thread starter Bman8910
- Start date
I think they, just like most of the high quality cue makers, only make traditional solid maple shafts.
So expect deflection like you get from any other traditional shaft.
I could be wrong.
Seems to me that most of the super high quality cue makers only make solid feeling/hitting shafts.......thus NO LD's.......
Why would they want to completely ruin the feel of an otherwise awesome cue????
So expect deflection like you get from any other traditional shaft.
I could be wrong.
Seems to me that most of the super high quality cue makers only make solid feeling/hitting shafts.......thus NO LD's.......
Why would they want to completely ruin the feel of an otherwise awesome cue????
Quite a bit, but there may be exceptions here and there. I had three brand new sets of shafts weighing 101-102 gms., 107-108 gms. and 115-115 gms. All had the current ferrule material (12.75mm. w/Le Pro tips) and all shafts were ordered with a taper on the stiff playing side. I sold the 115 gram shafts since they made my cue too heavy. One day, out of curiosity, I asked to hit with one of the 115 gram shafts I had sold to a friend. I used my usual 2/3 length of the table, thin cut shot with outside english to see how much deflection it produced the way I align, sight and stroke. Lots of deflection, even for a conventional shaft. I assumed the much discussed "end mass" theory at play due to the weight of the shaft. Then I dug out the 101-102 gram shafts to see how much a half ounce lighter shaft might reduce deflection. There wasn't much difference at all. The same thing with my 107-108 gram shafts. I sent the 107-108 gram shafts to a top cuemaker to replace the ferrules with his thin wall, threaded and uncapped ferrules. The result was a marked reduction of deflection/curve/squirt, etc. I was told by this cuemaker there was about 1/4" of cap on the Southwest ferrules. That's a lot of plastic for the business end of the cue and may contribute to excess undesirable deflection. :wink:
Last edited:
Get one of the custom cue makers LD shafts. A LOT more feel than the production models. Only one I have tried personally was Mike Webb, but many people have reviewed others on here. OB shafts also don't kill the hit as much as Predator if you want to try those. You can also just have your current shafts changed to the new pin if different.
I have a 1989 satin cue and I play with the ob classic pro. The SW shaft hits absolutely amazing but after playing with OB shafts since they were first made its hard to make the switch. The SW cues balance out so well that it really doesnt matter what you put on them IMO.
FC
FC
Thanks... That is the info I was looking for...
I have played with maple shafts most of my life. Tried LD shafts and did not like them. Got a new custom cue with two maple shafts. Could no other make a ball using side spin. Way to much deflection. Just bought an LD shafts for it and I am sticking with it. How anyone could play with that much deflection is a mystery to me.
The shafts I play with now are maple shafts with a short/ferrule on them. I tried playing with a cue with a heavy shaft and a linen ferrule and when I tried to cut a ball with extreme inside English the cue ball squirted about an inch from where I was aiming.... I was like wtf... I didn't hit that shot that bad...lol
You can buy low deflection shaft blanks and send them to South West to be fitted to your cue. A friend of mine did exactly that with an OB shaft blank. If you are concerned about selling your cue in the future, you should also have a couple of standard shafts made, especially if the joint collars are going to be brown phenolic.
I assumed that you were having a cue made. If you're buying a used cue, the first sentence still applies. If you supply the pin # or a copy of the LOA, you don't even have to send in the cue, they can still match the joint rings. However, if the joint collar is brown phenolic, the color probably won't match because the stuff they have now is much lighter than what they used in the past.
Short answer: a lot.
I was in your position four months ago when I purchased my SW. I got a beautiful cue (98') in pristine condition. It has an incredible, solid hit which is downright intoxicating. Everyone that tries it says the same thing.
I've always for the most part been an LD guy. Bought this cue and vowed to learn a maple shaft. One shaft is 13mm and is nearly unplayable, the other is 12.5 and is much more preferable. The hit is stiff, even among the standards for most maple shafts. I've learned a lot more about deflection and its required aim adjustments since using it.
Looking back after this period, I have days where I can play up my original speed with it. Many days I cannot. Whereas I adore the cue, I have to face reality and accept that the last several months have been a struggle; the satisfaction of hitting with this cue has not mitigated the feeling I get when I now lose matches I wouldn't have in the past.
SW cues are classic, are impeccable in fit and finish, and have a smooth balance that I haven't found in other cues. Also, if you lay out the $$$ for one and treat it well, it will not lose value. You have a lot to consider before this move, but take it from me - think long and hard about getting away from what has been successful for you in the past.
A lack of information here. SW Non ivory ferrule shafts do not have "a lot" of deflection. They will have some but not a lot compared to other standard maple shaft custom makers. While end mass is LD shafts's game, stiffness of the shaft and taper all contribute to deflection. I have had a number of shafts
SW
kersenbrock
Bluegrass
A darrin hill Lakewood shaft
An old growth shaft finished by lambros
All of which had only a minute amount of deflection.
Personally, I would not waste the money on a SW butt just to add a LD shaft production or otherwise. You buy a SW becuase you like that type of hit from end to end.
SW
kersenbrock
Bluegrass
A darrin hill Lakewood shaft
An old growth shaft finished by lambros
All of which had only a minute amount of deflection.
Personally, I would not waste the money on a SW butt just to add a LD shaft production or otherwise. You buy a SW becuase you like that type of hit from end to end.