Can anyone help me with a spraying problem Im having. What Ive been doing in my spraying proceedure is assembling the cue and painting it together and then slightly opening the joint right after the coat is applied and then hanging the cue vertically and allowing to dry. I put on very light coats so running is not a problem. I also have a rotating shaft and butt assembly in a booth but find that I get some overspray at the joint so I made a sleeve to thread over the pin with a washer but get some bonding with the washer and the paint after it sets up. Could someone possibly share with me a system that may work better.
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spraying at the joint
- Thread starter kiinstructor
- Start date
joint fixed and perfect
we have been spraying cues apart in a machine that turns 6 butts or 6 shafts at once rotating them slowly while applying the clear we also get a little over spray on the face but we fix the problem by putting each shaft or butt in the lathe after applying the clear center the shaft or butt and pin and face off the very little bit of roll over that you get after spraying which also takes care of the over spray we most of the time only have to remove 5 thousands sometimes a little more since the clear wants to walk away from the joint while spraying no matter which way you rotate it clockwise are counter clockwise. then we remove the cue and work out the finish you can use a collet to chuck up if your worried about hurting the clear but we have been able to do this with no collets and never have a problem with this method for us it gives a very nice fitting joint so much so you can not feel the difference of the 2 joints they feel as one. we do take some 2000 paper after facing and still apart and just lightly go around the outside of the joints to kinda make sure the case or something doe,nt get ahold of the clear when putting it in the case but do this very lightly were its not noticeable at all and does,nt roll it over making it look nasty just a smesh . also the bit we face the clear with has a 2 degree radius on it to relief chipping of the clear . try this it makes the joints fit up perfect everytime. MADISON BOB CUSTOM CUES
kiinstructor said:Can anyone help me with a spraying problem Im having. What Ive been doing in my spraying proceedure is assembling the cue and painting it together and then slightly opening the joint right after the coat is applied and then hanging the cue vertically and allowing to dry. I put on very light coats so running is not a problem. I also have a rotating shaft and butt assembly in a booth but find that I get some overspray at the joint so I made a sleeve to thread over the pin with a washer but get some bonding with the washer and the paint after it sets up. Could someone possibly share with me a system that may work better.
we have been spraying cues apart in a machine that turns 6 butts or 6 shafts at once rotating them slowly while applying the clear we also get a little over spray on the face but we fix the problem by putting each shaft or butt in the lathe after applying the clear center the shaft or butt and pin and face off the very little bit of roll over that you get after spraying which also takes care of the over spray we most of the time only have to remove 5 thousands sometimes a little more since the clear wants to walk away from the joint while spraying no matter which way you rotate it clockwise are counter clockwise. then we remove the cue and work out the finish you can use a collet to chuck up if your worried about hurting the clear but we have been able to do this with no collets and never have a problem with this method for us it gives a very nice fitting joint so much so you can not feel the difference of the 2 joints they feel as one. we do take some 2000 paper after facing and still apart and just lightly go around the outside of the joints to kinda make sure the case or something doe,nt get ahold of the clear when putting it in the case but do this very lightly were its not noticeable at all and does,nt roll it over making it look nasty just a smesh . also the bit we face the clear with has a 2 degree radius on it to relief chipping of the clear . try this it makes the joints fit up perfect everytime. MADISON BOB CUSTOM CUES
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Thanks Bob, I guess I shouldnt be so concerned about overspray. If you just face each part later that should work out the problem. I have done that already but I thought there might be a method to avoid having to reface the butt and shaft. Anyway thanks againbob griffin said:we have been spraying cues apart in a machine that turns 6 butts or 6 shafts at once rotating them slowly while applying the clear we also get a little over spray on the face but we fix the problem by putting each shaft or butt in the lathe after applying the clear center the shaft or butt and pin and face off the very little bit of roll over that you get after spraying which also takes care of the over spray we most of the time only have to remove 5 thousands sometimes a little more since the clear wants to walk away from the joint while spraying no matter which way you rotate it clockwise are counter clockwise. then we remove the cue and work out the finish you can use a collet to chuck up if your worried about hurting the clear but we have been able to do this with no collets and never have a problem with this method for us it gives a very nice fitting joint so much so you can not feel the difference of the 2 joints they feel as one. we do take some 2000 paper after facing and still apart and just lightly go around the outside of the joints to kinda make sure the case or something doe,nt get ahold of the clear when putting it in the case but do this very lightly were its not noticeable at all and does,nt roll it over making it look nasty just a smesh . also the bit we face the clear with has a 2 degree radius on it to relief chipping of the clear . try this it makes the joints fit up perfect everytime. MADISON BOB CUSTOM CUES