We often talk about modifying sub-rails on these old Gold Crown tables. However, not much is shared about how the work is performed.. While some use more or less sophisticated tooling, I figured I would share what I have been using. These tools are all purpose built. I keep all of these tools set for Brunswick Superspeed cushions. They may require some slight tweaking for Artemis or MBS rubber, though the adjustments are slight, and easy enough to make. Perhaps one day, I will develop more tooling for all cushion profiles, though I have not seen much need to do so, as I typically only modify maybe 10 sets of Brunswick rails per year.
The table is a granite countertop, with holes for bolting rails down. There is also a granite fence, which provides a straight edge for the "sleds" to follow. I use jig plates to align the rails to the fence. Using a fence as a cutting guide will produce a straight cut, regardless of whether a rail is bowed or twisted.
I start by cutting the sub-rail down to the proper thickness. A cheap trim router does the job. This "sled" is guided by the featherstrip dado. Not much adjustability on this tool. Though, once the height is set, no adjustability is needed. The height is determined by the depth of tool insertion in the collet. For a cheap tool, the finished results are quite consistent.
I then cut the face of the sub-rail to the proper angle. I've been using a mid-grade circular saw, with a quality blade. However, a higher quality saw will surely be an improvement, and is among my list of near-future upgrades. This plate has slots cut for the saw mounts. This allows adjustability for the proper width of the sub-rail, as well as angular adjustment of the sub-rail face. It's a bit tricky to get all of the settings correct, though I do not generally need to modify the width settings. If I do, I layer tape on the guide edge of the "sled".
Lastly, I cut the bottom relief angle. This is just a cheap saw, as this face is not very critical. However, once I upgrade my face angle saw, I will swap out this cheap one. In regards to adjustability, this is the same as the previous.
I will try to get some more photos, as I complete my next set of rails. Probably a couple of weeks out.
The table is a granite countertop, with holes for bolting rails down. There is also a granite fence, which provides a straight edge for the "sleds" to follow. I use jig plates to align the rails to the fence. Using a fence as a cutting guide will produce a straight cut, regardless of whether a rail is bowed or twisted.
I start by cutting the sub-rail down to the proper thickness. A cheap trim router does the job. This "sled" is guided by the featherstrip dado. Not much adjustability on this tool. Though, once the height is set, no adjustability is needed. The height is determined by the depth of tool insertion in the collet. For a cheap tool, the finished results are quite consistent.
I then cut the face of the sub-rail to the proper angle. I've been using a mid-grade circular saw, with a quality blade. However, a higher quality saw will surely be an improvement, and is among my list of near-future upgrades. This plate has slots cut for the saw mounts. This allows adjustability for the proper width of the sub-rail, as well as angular adjustment of the sub-rail face. It's a bit tricky to get all of the settings correct, though I do not generally need to modify the width settings. If I do, I layer tape on the guide edge of the "sled".
Lastly, I cut the bottom relief angle. This is just a cheap saw, as this face is not very critical. However, once I upgrade my face angle saw, I will swap out this cheap one. In regards to adjustability, this is the same as the previous.
I will try to get some more photos, as I complete my next set of rails. Probably a couple of weeks out.
