super draw stroke

icem3n said:
Oh...:confused:

I haven't seen anyone stick a chalk to their shafts? It would be better a tip:p
Can you explain why a F1 wheel has sticky rubber and road vehicles don't?

Well for starters, the ferrule and tip are ABOVE the shaft :rolleyes:

As for the F1 Wheel, it grips surface better. Using your logic, sticky rubber wouldn't matter, only the density of the tire lol :rolleyes:
 
So far as "TV super draw shots" go...

Keep in mind that they might be using very fast cloth, a shiny new cue ball, and may be coating the cue ball with silicone.

The opposite of this would be slow cloth and an old cheap dull looking cue ball which is pitted because it has been shot onto the floor many times.

Also a last second "wrist flick" can add a bit of speed.

So get fastest cloth, brand new cue ball, coat cue ball with silicone then wipe with rag. Then tons of follow through with last minute "wrist flick" and you will be ready for ESPN!
 
icem3n said:
Oh...:confused:

I haven't seen anyone stick a chalk to their shafts? It would be better a tip:p
Can you explain why a F1 wheel has sticky rubber and road vehicles don't?

I think it has to do with the fact that the F1 drivers don't have time to keep chalking their tires!:p
 
5ballcharlie said:
Anyone got any ideas on how to achieve a super draw stroke. I can draw the cue ball full length of the table. So lets say 9 plus feet but sometimes you need a little more. The draw stroke that when you hit it it stops the jerks back very fast with force. I shoot 50 full length draw shots a day and can draw them all the way back but it seems like they limp back BUT they get back nonetheless.

There are two requirements for power draw: higher cue speed and lower tip hit. Anything you can do to maximize these two will get you the highest draw spin.

People can argue all day long, but there isn't much physical proof anywhere that says that you will get any more draw any easier with:

a softer tip (there is enough evidence to contradict this)

cue acceleration (there is simple video evidence to show that even with the most powerful draw strokers, the cue is not accelerating when it hits the cueball, but often is decelerating. But, it's going at a high speed.)

IMO, it's also silly to tell you that these power draw shots will not come up in a game, most likely. I'm not sure why this advice is supposed to answer the question. What do we do when they do come up? (And they do come up.). Better to have the stroke than to find out that you don't.

--------------------------------------------------
That all being said:

Low and fast. If you aren't hitting the super power draw, you most likely are not hitting it low enough.

Things that help me get higher draw with less effort and why.

Super loose wrist: this helps to not check up your speed, might allow easier speed development (just like any sport that uses a loose wrist). It's almost a throwing motion.

Exaggerated follow through: Of course, the follow through doesn't help in of itself, but I can't stress enough do things that help to not check up on your speed.

Even at slower speeds, you will amaze yourself at just how far you can draw the ball. With these two actions. If you're in the SPF camp, then the super loose wrist is the only thing you really need to add.

Both the looser wrist combined with the exaggerated follow through may help people to think that they're accelerating their cue. If the thought helps, then do it. But, from a physics standpoint, the cue isn't accelerating when it get to the cue ball.

Aim lower: Most people are pretty uncomfortable aiming super low. Aim lower than you ever thought possible. When players shoot fast strokes, just like many people said in the "elbow drop" thread, the elbow will naturally drop on those harder strokes. Many (most?) people on harder shots (like the break indicates) will begin that drop before the tip hits the ball. Chalk it up to life's little conundrums. We have to deal with it if we're going to be players.

Elbow Drop Consequence: The power drawers normally will aim to the base of the ball. Of course, if they actually hit the base of the ball, they'd launch the cueball. So, the fact that they don't launch is evidence that suggests that the tip rises a bit on power shots due to their dropping of the elbow (see above paragraph). So, either lower the tip upon address like many power drawers do, or keep your elbow from dropping throughout the stroke. Keeping your elbow still in this case may limit just how fast you can hit the cueball. Try it both ways. Make sure the windows are protected.

Fred
 
Chris said:
I think it has to do with the fact that the F1 drivers don't have time to keep chalking their tires!:p

LOL :D that a nice one.. maybe ferrari will try using chalk on their tires this season.:p
 
Billy_Bob said:
So far as "TV super draw shots" go...

Keep in mind that they might be using very fast cloth, a shiny new cue ball, and may be coating the cue ball with silicone.

The opposite of this would be slow cloth and an old cheap dull looking cue ball which is pitted because it has been shot onto the floor many times.

Also a last second "wrist flick" can add a bit of speed.

So get fastest cloth, brand new cue ball, coat cue ball with silicone then wipe with rag. Then tons of follow through with last minute "wrist flick" and you will be ready for ESPN!

I agrees with this statement.



Cornerman said:
Low and fast. If you aren't hitting the super power draw, you most likely are not hitting it low enough.

Things that help me get higher draw with less effort and why.

Super loose wrist: this helps to not check up your speed, might allow easier speed development (just like any sport that uses a loose wrist). It's almost a throwing motion.

Exaggerated follow through: Of course, the follow through doesn't help in of itself, but I can't stress enough do things that help to not check up on your speed.

Even at slower speeds, you will amaze yourself at just how far you can draw the ball. With these two actions. If you're in the SPF camp, then the super loose wrist is the only thing you really need to add.

Both the looser wrist combined with the exaggerated follow through may help people to think that they're accelerating their cue. If the thought helps, then do it. But, from a physics standpoint, the cue isn't accelerating when it get to the cue ball.

Aim lower: Most people are pretty uncomfortable aiming super low. Aim lower than you ever thought possible. When players shoot fast strokes, just like many people said in the "elbow drop" thread, the elbow will naturally drop on those harder strokes. Many (most?) people on harder shots (like the break indicates) will begin that drop before the tip hits the ball. Chalk it up to life's little conundrums. We have to deal with it if we're going to be players.

Elbow Drop Consequence: The power drawers normally will aim to the base of the ball. Of course, if they actually hit the base of the ball, they'd launch the cueball. So, the fact that they don't launch is evidence that suggests that the tip rises a bit on power shots due to their dropping of the elbow (see above paragraph). So, either lower the tip upon address like many power drawers do, or keep your elbow from dropping throughout the stroke. Keeping your elbow still in this case may limit just how fast you can hit the cueball. Try it both ways. Make sure the windows are protected.

Fred

I agrees with Fred, That what i do, get the tip low and lesser effort on power, hence more accurate potting.

Only thing i cant master is to stop my elbow to drop.What I do to compensate is with wrist action to keep the tip low..:D
 
Back
Top