The best fluorescent bulb ?

TommyT

Obsessed
Silver Member
It’s time to change my F96T12 bulbs and I’m wondering what gives the best light. These are HO and cool white. I’m not going to led because I just changed the ballast.
Thanks
 
LED is so much nicer though. Dump the ballasts and switch you will be glad you did.
 
There are (3) specs to consider with lighting: Kelvins, Lumens and CRI

Kelvin is a measurement used to describe the color temperature of a light source.

Lumens measure how much light you are getting from a bulb.

Color Rendering Index (CRI) is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reveal the colors of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal or natural light source.

The most popular Kelvin rating for pool table lighting is 5000K although some people prefer 4000K. I prefer 5000K and feel it is the most "natural" light.

Lumens is equally as important as light temp, if not more so. IMO, the brighter the better. I run (8) 4' fluorescent (gasp!!!) bulbs in the Gold Crown Light I built and each bulb is rated at 2600 Lumens; multiply that by eight and it is a total of 20,800 Lumens lighting up the table. Ideally, you want 18,000-20,000+ total Lumens. IMO, the higher (more light) the better.

The CRI rating you should shoot for is right around the 90 mark or above. This will give all the colors associated with our game a faithful reproduction with the human eye. The bulbs I use have a CRI of 90.

If you are dead set against the LED's, you can check to see if Philips makes the bulbs below in 8'. These are what I've used in two different lights I've built over the last 5 years and the lighting on my table has been excellent. Good luck! Post your results.


Here's my setup:
49726405907_5924fe6a1e_h.jpg
 
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Nice light!!! I have the "official" Brunswick light that goes with GC's, it also takes 8 4' florescent tubes, are the tubes in the specs you speak of hard to find or can I most likely walk into any store and pick them up??? Mine are probably 7-8 years old and are most likely due for replacement.
 
Yea... T12's are obsolete and no longer being manufactured. Being a HO lamp it will have an oval pin that spring loads into fixtures lampholder (tombstone). You can probably find some online somewhere but once they're gone, they're gone for good. Bite the bullet and go LED, some LED's even let you run with a ballast, but in my professional experience, the lamps that bypass the ballast are by far the superior lamps. Those tombstones will likely need replacing too when you eventually go to LED's unless you find the compatible lamp, which is available. Don't go cheap unless you buy extras. Good luck!
 
Nice light!!! I have the "official" Brunswick light that goes with GC's, it also takes 8 4' florescent tubes, are the tubes in the specs you speak of hard to find or can I most likely walk into any store and pick them up??? Mine are probably 7-8 years old and are most likely due for replacement.
Thanks. I decided to build my own because the Brunswick offering is expensive and difficult to find, the panels on the Brunswick light are not angled in like the aprons on the table and the shape of the panels on the Brunswick light are designed after the aprons on a GCIII, not a GCI. I wanted the light to match the GCI.

Home Depot used to carry these bulbs on the shelf but they no longer stock Philips in the store (at least here in Los Angeles). I ordered them on the HD website with free shipping. Check stock online for the Home Depot stores near you. They may carry them.
 
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Worth it going LED, no hum, no dim starts, etc. I converted my HO 8 ft T12 lamps to LED 5000k. 4 of those over the table is unreal and has great color rendering. Cost me $80 for 4 lamps. Get frosted if you do go LED.
 
Worth it going LED, no hum, no dim starts, etc. I converted my HO 8 ft T12 lamps to LED 5000k. 4 of those over the table is unreal and has great color rendering. Cost me $80 for 4 lamps. Get frosted if you do go LED.
Do you have a link to share?
 
I got the plug and play bulbs but they are single pin and my light needs the HO pins. I’m done and going back to get fluorescents. I’ve played under fluorescents for years and never had a problem. With the new ballast there is no hum and the lighting is better than before. I guess I’m not ready for the modern era 😀
 
The upside is that HO T12 ballast will probably last 5-7 years, maybe longer. LED isn't going anywhere so you can grab some down the road. How many lamps are you running?
 
There are (3) specs to consider with lighting: Kelvins, Lumens and CRI

Kelvin is a measurement used to describe the color temperature of a light source.

Lumens measure how much light you are getting from a bulb.

Color Rendering Index (CRI) is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reveal the colors of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal or natural light source.

The most popular Kelvin rating for pool table lighting is 5000K although some people prefer 4000K. I prefer 5000K and feel it is the most "natural" light.

Lumens is equally as important as light temp, if not more so. IMO, the brighter the better. I run (8) 4' fluorescent (gasp!!!) bulbs in the God Crown Light I built and each bulb is rated at 2600 Lumens; multiply that by eight and it is a total of 20,800 Lumens lighting up the table. Ideally, you want 18,000-20,000+ total Lumens. IMO, the higher (more light) the better.

The CRI rating you should shoot for is right around the 90 mark or above. This will give all the colors associated with our game a faithful reproduction with the human eye. The bulbs I use have a CRI of 90.

If you are dead set against the LED's, you can check to see if Philips makes the bulbs below in 8'. These are what I've used in two different lights I've built over the last 5 years and the lighting on my table has been excellent. Good luck! Post your results.


Here's my setup:
49726405907_5924fe6a1e_h.jpg
Hi There,
A little late to the game, but I'll chime in on color temperature. My preference is for much warmer light, closer to 3000Kº. Incandescent light is in that range. The cooler 5000Kº and blue cloth is too cool, in my opinion. You might want to do a side by side comparison.
 
Hi There,
A little late to the game, but I'll chime in on color temperature. My preference is for much warmer light, closer to 3000Kº. Incandescent light is in that range. The cooler 5000Kº and blue cloth is too cool, in my opinion. You might want to do a side by side comparison.
3000K is much too warm for my liking.
 
I purchased the Diamond recommended 5000K LED lights for the 9’ Diamond light from their preferred vendor. They sent 4000K. I took a picture of the label on the shipping container and asked if they sent the wrong product. They said just keep what I have and they would send the correct product.

I had the electrician assemble the light and use the 5000K. I liked that.

So, if you would like 8 four foot 4000K LED bulbs, let me know. $10 and you pay for whatever shipping you want. Unopened in original shipping packaging from the vendor.
 
I purchased the Diamond recommended 5000K LED lights for the 9’ Diamond light from their preferred vendor. They sent 4000K. I took a picture of the label on the shipping container and asked if they sent the wrong product. They said just keep what I have and they would send the correct product.

I had the electrician assemble the light and use the 5000K. I liked that.

So, if you would like 8 four foot 4000K LED bulbs, let me know. $10 and you pay for whatever shipping you want. Unopened in original shipping packaging from the vendor.
I replaced the flourescents in my diamond light with LED bulbs, just remove the ballists and wire them straight in to the fixtures.
 
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