Thin cut method

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xiao.wend

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Since till now ive real problem with thin cut between 60 up to 86 angle, what is the good understandable method to anticipate that kind of angle ? Im not saying the best method, but at least it's easy to understand, ive tried ghost ball for this kind of shoot, but sure it's too hard too imagine exact size for cue ball being there, so the ghost ball is not working for me.
Whenever i shoot at that angle usually i end up cut too thick or miss the shoot completely, frustating yea sure -_-
Thanks for those who will help me, and please dont bully me with my silly question here, im just new comer who want to learn more to be much more better than i am now :)
 
xiao.wend said:
Since till now ive real problem with thin cut between 60 up to 86 angle, what is the good understandable method to anticipate that kind of angle ? Im not saying the best method, but at least it's easy to understand, ive tried ghost ball for this kind of shoot, but sure it's too hard too imagine exact size for cue ball being there, so the ghost ball is not working for me.
Whenever i shoot at that angle usually i end up cut too thick or miss the shoot completely, frustating yea sure -_-
Thanks for those who will help me, and please dont bully me with my silly question here, im just new comer who want to learn more to be much more better than i am now :)
Click to expand...

Here is a simple method: place your cue tip exactly centered where the ghost ball would sit (1/2 ball away from OB behind pocket), with your stick over the cue ball. This is the shot line. Extend this line to a spot on the table (or wall). Shoot at it during your shot. This follows the same principle of looking at the pocket when you shoot a straight in shot.
 
Thin Cut

This is what I do:

First: Practice the spot shot with no english on the cue ball. When you're comfortable with the cue and object ball aim points, then you can start using top, bottom, left and right english.

My "standard" for a cut shot is the spot shot, where the object ball is on the head spot and the cue ball is in hand behind the head string. If I'm shooting the object ball into the left hand corner pocket, I aim the left side of the cue ball to hit the right side of the object ball. I've found that when you shoot this shot enough times, aiming becomes "almost" automatic.

Once the spot shot is mastered, you can practice tighter angles by moving the object ball from the spot and placing it closer to the rail.

Once your proficient making object ball one ball's width away from the head spot, move the object ball a little closer to the head rail.

Eventually, you'll get to the point where the object ball is right up against the rail. In my opinion, this is where the shot not only is challenging, but becomes very interesting, especially with respect to the type of english that is put on the cue ball.

Hope this helps and good luck!

John
 
xiao.wend said:
Since till now ive real problem with thin cut between 60 up to 86 angle, what is the good understandable method to anticipate that kind of angle ? Im not saying the best method, but at least it's easy to understand, ive tried ghost ball for this kind of shoot, but sure it's too hard too imagine exact size for cue ball being there, so the ghost ball is not working for me.
Whenever i shoot at that angle usually i end up cut too thick or miss the shoot completely, frustating yea sure -_-
Thanks for those who will help me, and please dont bully me with my silly question here, im just new comer who want to learn more to be much more better than i am now :)
Click to expand...

xiao.wend:

The timing of your question is perfect. You should really look at, and practice, a drill that Anthony (8pack) demonstratess in this thread:

"Table Drill"
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=282285

What is really great about this drill, is that it will "ease you into" your problematic cut angles, and help you work through, and beyond it.

(Great drill, Anthony!)

-Sean
 
Im really happy you guys want to help me here, thanks and i appreciate all your help so much.
I will try it out one by one and i will pick one the best for me, soon i will tell you guys the result of all your help.
Have a nice day :)
 
Xiao, my mentor showed me a trick that helped with thin cut shots.
This method should only be used to pot the object ball with center ball and play position with speed control.

He told me NOT to stroke like you 'guide' the cue ball. The stroke should be short, fast, decisive, and the cue ball should leave the tip as fast as possible. That way, there will be very least rolls on the ball, and minimum english (check for cueing errors).

I tried this and found out I could make 8/10 of the 75-80 degrees shots. I used 0 english on these shots and only played position with speed control.

I hope that is helpful to you, and maybe others.
 
alanvo said:
Xiao, my mentor showed me a trick that helped with thin cut shots.
This method should only be used to pot the object ball with center ball and play position with speed control.

He told me NOT to stroke like you 'guide' the cue ball. The stroke should be short, fast, decisive, and the cue ball should leave the tip as fast as possible. That way, there will be very least rolls on the ball, and minimum english (check for cueing errors).

I tried this and found out I could make 8/10 of the 75-80 degrees shots. I used 0 english on these shots and only played position with speed control.

I hope that is helpful to you, and maybe others.
Click to expand...
You can achieve a poking, straight shot as described by gripping the cue primarily in your ring and pinky fingers. Try it!
 
You don't need to use any special strokes or techniques, english, etc. You just need to develop your sighting for these thinner cuts, thin hit the cue ball with a nice rolling ball to minimize cling and you should be fine. You especially want to minimize any sort of english as the distance increases.

For very thin cuts (75+ degrees), I find measuring from the edges of the balls (using 90/90 or CTE or something similar) help sighting vs. picture a ghost ball out in space. The aforementioned trick of finding the GB and then aiming through it to a spot on the table is also helpful. As with anything, just keep practicing them at various thin angles and from various distances and you will get better at recognizing the angles and executing the shots during your games.

Scott
 
2 differant deals

You can spin the cueball into the object ball or away from it. Either way you have to see the balls you hit and are hitting so they appear about the same size.
When you hook into the ball the advantage is as if you were shooting from a differant spot that has less of an angle basicly allowing you to make extreme cut shots but especially in 9 ball if you miss the ball and it is near the rail you will get a good hit on the rebound.And if you make the ball the cue will want to stop near the rail.
If you flick the Cue away from the object ball the spin reverses on the ball and twist it into the pocket basicly to go stuff. Aim to hit the ball fuller the slower you shoot. This also leaves a very unmakeable shot if you miss and play a long rail 2 or 3 rail safe.
This is called a two way shot.
I like the first option because it pockets the ball best for me and never sells out.
The hardest part is hitting where you aim. Shoot straight through the rock in either case.To practice doing this work to develope a consistant stroke speed.
Nick :)
 
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He told me NOT to stroke like you 'guide' the cue ball. The stroke should be short, fast, decisive, and the cue ball should leave the tip as fast as possible.
Click to expand...

Another good point. You should almost never "aim" with your practice strokes. A good player thinks "back and forth, like a million times before, relaxing the muscles in preparation to shoot".

The bad player thinks, "I'm practice stroking so that when I finally do a final stroke, it will hit and twist--just--about there."

The first is the way to start building a reliable, repeatable stroke.
 
I'm just a beginner but I think I've found a fairly reliable method of making thin cut shots (I consider any shot over 60-degree angle as "thin"). Since it's hard for me to imagine a ghost ball image "far out" from the object ball, I think in terms of CB/OB overlap because that allows me to aim using two real objects -- the edge of the CB and the edge of the OB.

I think I also subconsciously aim for a center-of-ghost ball too, but it happens after I've determined the edge-to-edge overlap.

If the OB is near a rail, all the better, since it give me another "real" reference point: a spot on the rail that corresponds with the center of the ghost ball.
 
Mitchxout said:
Thin cuts are easier with draw. :thumbup:
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I sometimes use that technique as well, but be careful with that, though. Draw shots -- especially if hit firm -- cause the cue ball to leave the table very slightly, and, if the cut is thin enough (e.g. if you're trying to "scrape last year's paint off the object ball"), you can miss the object ball entirely, because the equator of the cue ball is just slightly higher than that of the object ball.

-Sean
 
Mitchxout said:
Thin cuts are easier with draw. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I agree and the cb must (the cb must be really spinning)hold its spin until contact to.I use this on almost all long thin cuts. (the shot needs to look like a thick hit, at least for me it does.)
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Not for me - and I can't think of a reason it would be true for everybody. I'm guessing it's a personal thing.

pj
chgo
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I think sometimes we hit the ball perfect and still get screwed.Im not sure but my personal experience draw helps the ob roll more true.(less chance getting jacked by Physics)
 
8pack said:
I agree and the cb must (the cb must be really spinning)hold its spin until contact to.I use this on almost all long thin cuts. (the shot needs to look like a thick hit, at least for me it does.)
Click to expand...

Shooting thin cuts with parallel aim (Mosconi, Joe Tucker) makes them easier, too. So does lining up your head/eyes behind the parallel points of cue ball contact point and object ball contact point--the shot looks more thick/full, as you suggest.
 
8pack said:
I think sometimes we hit the ball perfect and still get screwed.Im not sure but my personal experience draw helps the ob roll more true.(less chance getting jacked by Physics)
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You mean like a stray chalk mark causing extra throw? Sure. And shooting softly and trying to "feel" contact and roll, etc. help with rolling it true overall.
 
BilliardsAbout said:
You mean like a stray chalk mark causing extra throw? Sure. And shooting softly and trying to "feel" contact and roll, etc. help with rolling it true overall.
Click to expand...

Just the collision of the balls .(Dirty balls to)
I think spinning the ball( helping english) and drawing the ball are the
2 best ways to get the ball rolling rite.(I could be wrong).
Spinning on long cut shots is just to hard for me to controll because of speed and spin.(And I lose the cb)Close range not to hard but distance is a shot killer.This is why I perfer drawing on certain cut shots i just have had better results.(And I can controll the cb better)
 
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