Thoughts on using Hickory wood for cue shafts?

sfleinen

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Folks:

I'm sure everyone here has heard of the Janka Hardness test. It tests a wood's resistance to being dinged -- in other words, how easily or difficult is it to break or deform the fibers of the wood. The nearly-complete Janka Hardness test listing is shown here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

For some common woods we're all familiar with for various uses (not just cuemaking), I found these interesting:

Hickory / Pecan, Satinwood ......... 1820
Sweet Birch ........................ 1470
Hard Maple / Sugar Maple ........... 1450
White Oak .......................... 1360
Ash (White) ........................ 1320


If I'd not have as much experience with Hickory as I do, I would otherwise be utterly dumbstruck at how higher on the Janka Hardness test that Hickory shows up over Oak -- which, being brought up in the northeast U.S., was always taught in my childhood that Oak wood was among the hardest of the commonly-available hardwoods. ("Commonly available" to mean trees that you can look out your porch window and see; not everyone has an exotic like Brazilian Rosewood or Ebony tree in their backyard. ;) )

However, after having cleaned up after a tornado that cut through my area a couple years ago -- a tornado of which hit a cluster of Hickory trees and pulled a few down onto some houses -- I was blown away at just how hard and difficult to cut Hickory wood was. It actually dulls the blades on chainsaws, and after a few hours of cutting, you have to change or sharpen your chain. Then, try lifting those logs -- they feel like lead! Splitting the wood (with either a hydraulic or electric log splitter, or even a sledge hammer and wedges) was another challenge -- the wood resists splitting until its breaking point is reached, at which time it lets go with a loud <pow!> or <bang!>. (And if you're standing near the splitter when a Hickory log lets go and splits, you can feel the release of energy into the very ground you're standing on.)

Here's where I'm going with this:
My experience with this wood has inspired the thought of getting a cue -- or even just a shaft -- made from Hickory. Yes, I know it will be very heavy, but I prefer heavy cues anyway (I play with a 21-ounce cue). I just think I'd like the stiff hit, and the extreme hardness of this wood would make it conducive to small tip diameters, which I also prefer.

Anyone have any thoughts on a shaft (with, e.g., a tip diameter of 11.25mm or smaller) made from Hickory?

-Sean <-- I know, crazy idea, but sometimes crazy ideas lead into something interesting...
 
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Hickory is a horrible wood to work with. It splinters very badly.

The grain structure of hickory is similar to oak, very porous and open. It would have to be sealed extensively.

It smells good, tho.

dld

You ain't kidding about it smelling good! This is immediately obvious as soon as you touch the chainsaw to a log -- that aroma hits your nose over and above the chainsaw's exhaust. And I needn't say what the experience is like when you put one of these Hickory logs into a fire.

Concerning the grain structure, though, that's interesting. I didn't find Hickory to splinter at all -- quite the opposite, in fact. It tends to "pop" open when it gives way, rather than splinter. But then again, that might be because I was working with a freshly-cut tree, and did all the cutting and splitting while the wood was fresh. Perhaps it's different when the wood is seasoned?

Also, remember, hardness and brittleness oft times go hand in hand. A small diameter shaft might be conducive to breaking.

That said, if you are willing to invest the cash, I'm sure someone would be willing to turn one for you. Let us know how it works.

You might be right, there. There's an interesting article about this concerning baseball bats:

http://mlb.mlb.com/news/article.jsp?ymd=20120803&content_id=36046676&vkey=news_mlb&c_id=mlb

However, I would also think that it would take more force to reach that breakage point, since the wood itself is stronger. For example, a break shot. The old hickory baseball bats seem to support this; compared to Ash bats (which flake in small pieces) and Maple (which shatters in dangerously huge shards), Hickory bats are not known to shatter:

http://livescience.com/2699-science-breaking-baseball-bats.html

But that's obviously pertaining to bats, not pool cues, so unless one breaks with his/her player, I would think the brittleness of the wood -- at Hickory's high-strength level -- wouldn't be an issue. No?

I'll have to get my cue repair guy to make me one. I find it pretty intriguing!

Thanks for the reply post,
-Sean
 
Hickory

I have not made any shafts from hickory but I have made several cues with
spalted hickory handle sleeves. Hardness is one thing stability is entirely another issue. That is why for hard hitting cue shafts I go with purple heart: it is not only hard but it is very stable. With all that said you will never know unless you try it. I've made quite a few cue shafts from red oak and a few from black walnut and they have turned out to be quite nice--they stay straight and hit very well.
 
hickory shaft

Folks:

I'm sure everyone here has heard of the Janka Hardness test. It tests a wood's resistance to being dinged -- in other words, how easily or difficult is it to break or deform the fibers of the wood. The nearly-complete Janka Hardness test listing is shown here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janka_hardness_test

For some common woods we're all familiar with for various uses (not just cuemaking), I found these interesting:

Hickory / Pecan, Satinwood ......... 1820
Sweet Birch ........................ 1470
Hard Maple / Sugar Maple ........... 1450
White Oak .......................... 1360
Ash (White) ........................ 1320


If I'd not have as much experience with Hickory as I do, I would otherwise be utterly dumbstruck at how higher on the Janka Hardness test that Hickory shows up over Oak -- which, being brought up in the northeast U.S., was always taught in my childhood that Oak wood was among the hardest of the commonly-available hardwoods. ("Commonly available" to mean trees that you can look out your porch window and see; not everyone has an exotic like Brazilian Rosewood or Ebony tree in their backyard. ;) )

However, after having cleaned up after a tornado that cut through my area a couple years ago -- a tornado of which hit a cluster of Hickory trees and pulled a few down onto some houses -- I was blown away at just how hard and difficult to cut Hickory wood was. It actually dulls the blades on chainsaws, and after a few hours of cutting, you have to change or sharpen your chain. Then, try lifting those logs -- they feel like lead! Splitting the wood (with either a hydraulic or electric log splitter, or even a sledge hammer and wedges) was another challenge -- the wood resists splitting until its breaking point is reached, at which time it lets go with a loud <pow!> or <bang!>. (And if you're standing near the splitter when a Hickory log lets go and splits, you can feel the release of energy into the very ground you're standing on.)

Here's where I'm going with this:
My experience with this wood has inspired the thought of getting a cue -- or even just a shaft -- made from Hickory. Yes, I know it will be very heavy, but I prefer heavy cues anyway (I play with a 21-ounce cue). I just think I'd like the stiff hit, and the extreme hardness of this wood would make it conducive to small tip diameters, which I also prefer.

Anyone have any thoughts on a shaft (with, e.g., a tip diameter of 11.25mm or smaller) made from Hickory?

-Sean <-- I know, crazy idea, but sometimes crazy ideas lead into something interesting...


sfleinen, i have been experimenting with hickory for the last 3 years or so and find its a very unique wood for a shaft and enjoy it. hickory has a stiffer hit. it does have a little more weight but this can be adjusted a bit with taper. if you are a 14.1 player as your avatar suggests, you may like hickory.
 
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