Threads on predator insert
- Thread starter slim123
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It really depends when the shaft was produced as far as what style insert was used.
All threaded outside 7/16x14 or the new style that has a body like the uni loc. You won't know til you pull it out or
Just bore it out, plug it and start from scratch.
Sorry I can't help more than that.
Mike you are the man, and i knew you would be the one with the answer and direction
Thank You
Slim
Your welcome Sir
It's tough sometimes.
On shaft inserts, I just bore them out, plug the hole and start from scratch. It really is easier in the long run. Heating them up can be brutal
Especially on shafts with the Mezz insert. That sucker is big. To much chance of screwing up the rings
Drilling the insert out can be dangerous. If the drill bit binds and locks ,
Your could possibly ruin the shaft.
A small boring bar set up like the micro 100 series works very well. They have one that starts about .200 wide head and with go 1 1/4" deep. You just need the holder for your tool post.
Hope this helps.
Your could possibly ruin the shaft.
A small boring bar set up like the micro 100 series works very well. They have one that starts about .200 wide head and with go 1 1/4" deep. You just need the holder for your tool post.
Hope this helps.
Thank you that was exactly what i was thinking, but figured id ask first
I ordered a micro boring bar and waiting on it. For some reason i thought i read, in this forum, somewhere that predator used an expoxy that had an extremely high melting temp. The shaft does have joint collar, so i've decided to go your route Mike
The inserts are fairly easy to get out, it's the pin on new cues that's difficult in my experience.
I went the torch route and the insert came right out. Even more ironic, i was curious as to why the 5/16-14 couldn't be tapped to 5/16-18
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Yup, they can come out easilly but caution should still be used on a laminated shaft.
Or you don't think so?
Definitely! I always try to use as little heat as possible. I use an induction heater and even though it's really fast, it's easy to control the amount of heat transfered to the insert/shaft. The brass inserts takes the heat fairly well, the Uni-Loc pin, not so much, I have to use the torch on that and if I feel I'm pushing it, I rather go the drill route and even then I do it in steps, so I don't generate too much heat.
Both use the more or less the same minor, so you'll run into problems tapping the 5/16-18 threads, most likely you'll end up stripping all the threads in the process.
After i removed the insert i did run a tap thru it , out of curiosity and it seemed to work, however i'm not going to use that insert , it was just an experiement. I did tap 5/16-14 to 5/16-18 it didn't strip and threaded right on to a 5/16-18 pin , however, in the long run that inset may get sloppy . I have slew of blank brass plugs, now i want to see if i can tap one of the brass plugs to 3/8-10 or radial all will be mock ups
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I recommend you tap 3/8-10 and Radial into wood, phenolic or paper Micarta. The Radial tap is not meant to tap metal at all, and seeing they are $200, it would suck to wear out, or even worse, break the tap!
Thank you
I have no intentions of doing a 3/8 -pin or or a radial weight gain, balance etc)m with a brass insert. i was merely feeling for the line, before i have to make my grace to the phenolic insert.
Crazy as it is McDermott still uses brass inserts on some of thier 3/8x10 shafts. I did one for Cuetec, made the brass insert 1/2x13 o.d.
Fun stuff
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