Tip Adhesion issues - BK Rush

robbycar

robbycar

Registered
I have been working on a BK Rush with a broken vault plate.

I made a new plate from Tomahawk and got this affixed with no problem, but the tip is another story.

I am trying to glue a genuine BK Rush tip to the vault plate but I cant get it to stick properly.

Plate and tip were scuffed, some lines scribed with a blade and cleaned with alcohol prior to glueing.

I did it twice with 24hr epoxy, and it still came off both times.

Any ideas on what else I can try to get this finished?

Rob
Sydney, Australia
 
Ok, if you research on here, you will find hours on this subject. First fact....FLAT surface on both ferrule and tip....NO scruffs/lines/circles/holes/polka-dot patterns etc, just.........FLAT.......... then dry fit them...if any wiggle you need to reface one or the other or both. They need to fit flat with no wiggle. Then use Loctite control gel. Make sure it's fresh. If you were using a chinese hi-temp plastic for the ferrule, I would then say 3M CA40, not cheap...but made to the task. Let it dry overnight before using....a breaker is different than a shooter and is exposed to different shear forces. Now with that being said, a bit of advice, NO glue will compensate for an uneven surface trying to be attached to another flat, or uneven surface. If there is any slight gap, and you hit that tip hard, like a break shot....you will pop the tip off, maybe not the first time, but the moment you hit slightly off center....Bang...tip gone.
HTHS,
Dave
 
Last edited:
On top of what Dave said.
Concerns are. You voided the warranty by changing the vault plate. Also, were you able to get the silencer pad for the bk rush? My personal choice on all break tips is West system.
 
Michael Webb said:
On top of what Dave said.
Concerns are. You voided the warranty by changing the vault plate. Also, were you able to get the silencer pad for the bk rush? My personal choice on all break tips is West system.
Click to expand...
Warranty is not an issue, customer bought the shaft cheap with broken plate. Also warranty is not worth much here in Australia! Yes silencer pad included. I might try the West as you suggested, thanks.
 
Dave38 said:
Ok, if you research on here, you will find hours on this subject. First fact....FLAT surface on both ferrule and tip....NO scruffs/lines/circles/holes/polka-dot patterns etc, just.........FLAT.......... then dry fit them...if any wiggle you need to reface one or the other or both. They need to fit flat with no wiggle. Then use Loctite control gel. Make sure it's fresh. If you were using a chinese hi-temp plastic for the ferrule, I would then say 3M CA40, not cheap...but made to the task. Let it dry overnight before using....a breaker is different than a shooter and is exposed to different shear forces. Now with that being said, a bit of advice, NO glue will compensate for an uneven surface trying to be attached to another flat, or uneven surface. If there is any slight gap, and you hit that tip hard, like a break shot....you will pop the tip off, maybe not the first time, but the moment you hit slightly off center....Bang...tip gone.
HTHS,
Dave
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply Dave. I should have mentioned that both surfaces are dead flat.
 
Being the one who likes using tomahawk on playing shafts and it's great material especially for LD shafts I don't see why to use it for a breaking shaft. I prefer something harder there and good phenolic just works well for me. You might get some answers to help from Kelly (mvp cues).
 
Tomahawk is a great material, however I would not use it on a break cue and particulary not as a ferrule/vault plate on a CF shaft. Scoring is not neccessary, just make sure both faces are really flat and clean and use a quality CA like Loctite 454. Give it time to cure. Remember that if your working from the shaft, towards the tip, your essentially pulling the tip off, so use a live center with a small flat point that supports the tip while your working.
 
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