Tip discussion: All tips can be good, All tips can be bad.

S

smoochie

NotLikeThis
It's not another what's your best tip here because I believe that any brand of tips can be really good but at the same time, any brand of tips can be horrible/bad. Let me explain

I think the tip is the most important item when it comes to the cue, more so than the shaft itself or deflection (This is what I believe). I've been experimenting with lots of tips as I've played this game my whole life since I was 8 yrs old today I am 43 - I came to this conclusion but I don't know yet how to solve this problem.

Tips to me are just like opening a box of candy unsealed and you don't know what you gonna get. I wish there was a way to tell if the tip is good or bad before installing it or even sanding it from the glue side.

I've installed expensive tips which played really well & you could hit very far in the bottom offset for power draws and they don't miscue. I also installed the same brand of that same expensive tip but this time you got a bad one and even the slightest hit from below can cause a miscue. People mostly would love to say it's the stroke but as I said I've been experimenting with this very hard and I know it's the tip for a fact because I've hit with some tips with my same exact stroke and I can go for months without a miscue. But once I get that bad tip I could miscue 2-3 times a day.

Sometimes I even install a cheap tip but if its a good one again I can hit very far on offset top or bottom for draws and follow and they never ever miscue.....meanwhile again I install another one of the same cheap brands but this time it miscues VERY VERY easily.

So here's what I figure out....doesn't matter the brand or how expensive it is. If you get a good tip it will be really good... now of course the feel of the hit will different & that's where your preference comes into play, some ppl like mushy hit or hard hit...but for how it plays in terms of spin and hitting far-offset on the cueball will depend on your luck.

I call the good tips a "superman tip" & that's what I try to find.........if you guys feel the same way & if one of you has a method of finding out which one is good or bad before installing please let me know.
 
smoochie said:
It's not another what's your best tip here because I believe that any brand of tips can be really good but at the same time, any brand of tips can be horrible/bad. Let me explain

I think the tip is the most important item when it comes to the cue, more so than the shaft itself or deflection (This is what I believe). I've been experimenting with lots of tips as I've played this game my whole life since I was 8 yrs old today I am 43 - I came to this conclusion but I don't know yet how to solve this problem.

Tips to me are just like opening a box of candy unsealed and you don't know what you gonna get. I wish there was a way to tell if the tip is good or bad before installing it or even sanding it from the glue side.

I've installed expensive tips which played really well & you could hit very far in the bottom offset for power draws and they don't miscue. I also installed the same brand of that same expensive tip but this time you got a bad one and even the slightest hit from below can cause a miscue. People mostly would love to say it's the stroke but as I said I've been experimenting with this very hard and I know it's the tip for a fact because I've hit with some tips with my same exact stroke and I can go for months without a miscue. But once I get that bad tip I could miscue 2-3 times a day.

Sometimes I even install a cheap tip but if its a good one again I can hit very far on offset top or bottom for draws and follow and they never ever miscue.....meanwhile again I install another one of the same cheap brands but this time it miscues VERY VERY easily.

So here's what I figure out....doesn't matter the brand or how expensive it is. If you get a good tip it will be really good... now of course the feel of the hit will different & that's where your preference comes into play, some ppl like mushy hit or hard hit...but for how it plays in terms of spin and hitting far-offset on the cueball will depend on your luck.

I call the good tips a "superman tip" & that's what I try to find.........if you guys feel the same way & if one of you has a method of finding out which one is good or bad before installing please let me know.
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Just what exactly are trying to say? No offense bro but that's a lot of words to basically say nothing. How 'bout, "some tips are better than others"?? Basically the same point.
 
smoochie said:
It's not another what's your best tip here because I believe that any brand of tips can be really good but at the same time, any brand of tips can be horrible/bad. Let me explain

I think the tip is the most important item when it comes to the cue, more so than the shaft itself or deflection (This is what I believe). I've been experimenting with lots of tips as I've played this game my whole life since I was 8 yrs old today I am 43 - I came to this conclusion but I don't know yet how to solve this problem.

Tips to me are just like opening a box of candy unsealed and you don't know what you gonna get. I wish there was a way to tell if the tip is good or bad before installing it or even sanding it from the glue side.

I've installed expensive tips which played really well & you could hit very far in the bottom offset for power draws and they don't miscue. I also installed the same brand of that same expensive tip but this time you got a bad one and even the slightest hit from below can cause a miscue. People mostly would love to say it's the stroke but as I said I've been experimenting with this very hard and I know it's the tip for a fact because I've hit with some tips with my same exact stroke and I can go for months without a miscue. But once I get that bad tip I could miscue 2-3 times a day.

Sometimes I even install a cheap tip but if its a good one again I can hit very far on offset top or bottom for draws and follow and they never ever miscue.....meanwhile again I install another one of the same cheap brands but this time it miscues VERY VERY easily.

So here's what I figure out....doesn't matter the brand or how expensive it is. If you get a good tip it will be really good... now of course the feel of the hit will different & that's where your preference comes into play, some ppl like mushy hit or hard hit...but for how it plays in terms of spin and hitting far-offset on the cueball will depend on your luck.

I call the good tips a "superman tip" & that's what I try to find.........if you guys feel the same way & if one of you has a method of finding out which one is good or bad before installing please let me know.
Click to expand...
The couple of pre-tests for single layer are the float test and the bite test. These are like decades upon decades old tests. There are other methods and check out there.

Or you could just get a milk dud, or better yet…a KiTech tip from Outsvile. They’ve done all the testing and conditioning for you.

I generally shoot with Triangles. I use the bite test before putting one on. If not a Triangle, a Kitech Hard Techno-Dud. I dont bother biting it. Aside from that, one of my cues came with a good LePro in it, so there’s no reason for me to take it off.
 
Many people talk about the feel of a tip.. i.e... hard or soft. More properly, it should be talked about as In terms as Harmonics.

When vibrations travel through a shaft, it does so at a various Frequencies. This is measurable. It varies from shaft to shaft. But the tip will alter the frequencies of said shaft.

If measured fine enough, you can probably see the variation of frequency, even in tips from the same lot.

The reason Mr. Morri Came up with the idea of layered tips was too promote consistency from one tip to another.

Single layer tips have a higher percentage of variations from one to another (in my experience).
It's the reason many guys make milk duds from single layer tips. To make them more consistent from tip to tip. Whether on not this is what they had in mind when making them, it is the end result.
 
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buckshotshoey said:
Is that what you do? Or do you shoot with a custom or higher end production cue?
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i have a couple production couple of custom cues .... couple of 360 splice cues ...... some dufferin house cues... i often go to pool halls and play with whatever is on the wall. sure custom and production cues play better, but i can play with most anything.

sure you might like the way some cues flex .... or some tips play .... but it is best not to be so rigid .....

dents and dings in a shaft doesnt bother me .... unless it is on an expensive cue .... but it doesnt affect my game ... i dont tune in to a dent on my shaft .... its a waste of time because it doesnt matter
 
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i use to know a guy that would chop house cues in half and make the best 2 piece playing cues ..... same cue off the wall ... played as good as any custom cue.
 
garczar said:
Just what exactly are trying to say? No offense bro but that's a lot of words to basically say nothing. How 'bout, "some tips are better than others"?? Basically the same point.
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No you didn’t get it. Or maybe you didn’t bother to read. Or third option is that I couldn’t explain myself well…
 
southwest cues are some of the plainest most expensive waste of money i have ever seen ... which shows just cause you spend alot of money on something doesnt always mean you have the best ..... just mean you have alot of money in a name ...
 
smoochie said:
No you didn’t get it
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garczar said:
Just what exactly are trying to say? No offense bro but that's a lot of words to basically say nothing. How 'bout, "some tips are better than others"?? Basically the same point.
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Let me tell it shortly in an example

I installed a zan soft tip which played real good. Can draw two table length and hit maximum bottom on cue all and never miscue in a year not even once.

I also installed a zan soft tip same exact brand. On the same shaft. But that tip sucked so bad which even if I try to draw a little it will miscue. With this bad tip I miscue three times a day.

It’s the same tip. Same guy. Same shaft. So what I’m trying to say is you need to get lucky when installing tips that you get a Superman one of the brand you like.
 
smoochie said:
Let me tell it shortly in an example

I installed a zan soft tip which played real good. Can draw two table length and hit maximum bottom on cue all and never miscue in a year not even once.

I also installed a zan soft tip same exact brand. On the same shaft. But that tip sucked so bad which even if I try to draw a little it will miscue. With this bad tip I miscue three times a day.

It’s the same tip. Same guy. Same shaft. So what I’m trying to say is you need to get lucky when installing tips that you get a Superman one of the brand you like.
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It's like saying every pigs skin is going to have the same denseness, thickness, or elasticity. Their not. It sucks but these companies aren't going to be throwing away pig skin they bought just because it feels different than what they intended. And then sometimes they just dry out, due to storing conditions.
 
JolietJames said:
Another vote for milk duds.
I don't think I can find a more consistent tip from one to the next.
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This isn't a thread about "Which brand" is good......

By the way I also tried milk duds, lots of them and lots of variations......I got a box from a guy and tried them, even with milk duds you'll find a superman tip and you'll find a shitty tip. Its with all brands hense the title of this thread, the trick is HOW to find and pick the good one before installing, this is what I am trying to figure out...

I got a milk dud tip that is a monster....I also installed a milk dud that miscues so often so its with all tips.
 
smoochie said:
This isn't a thread about "Which brand" is good......

By the way I also tried milk duds, lots of them and lots of variations......I got a box from a guy and tried them, even with milk duds you'll find a superman tip and you'll find a shitty tip. Its with all brands hense the title of this thread, the trick is HOW to find and pick the good one before installing, this is what I am trying to figure out...

I got a milk dud tip that is a monster....I also installed a milk dud that miscues so often so its with all tips.
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There is a brand called "Milk Dud"?
I wasn't aware.
My point is in a box of 50 single layer tips you may get a dozen good ones.
I have not had a bad dud thus far.
 
JolietJames said:
There is a brand called "Milk Dud"?
I wasn't aware.
My point is in a box of 50 single layer tips you may get a dozen good ones.
I have not had a bad dud thus far.
Click to expand...
Milk dud is a type of tip. Originally was a master tip then they put it into milk hense the name milk-dud, but also there is probably some process and steps that happens. However it is still considered a brand or a type...when you say milk duds, you are calling a bunch of tips which suppose to be the same & branded that way to be unique. But again it isn't unique because you'll find good and bad ones just like any other brand/type/catagory/type, name it whatever you want, milk duds or narniya tips, you'll find an insane one that plays wonderfully and you'll find a very very bad one.
 
Cornerman said:
The couple of pre-tests for single layer are the float test and the bite test. These are like decades upon decades old tests. There are other methods and check out there.

Or you could just get a milk dud, or better yet…a KiTech tip from Outsvile. They’ve done all the testing and conditioning for you.

I generally shoot with Triangles. I use the bite test before putting one on. If not a Triangle, a Kitech Hard Techno-Dud. I dont bother biting it. Aside from that, one of my cues came with a good LePro in it, so there’s no reason for me to take it off.
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I do the water test. I tried the bite test but it always pops my top denture out.
I tried it without dentures but got no results. lol
 
Cornerman said:
The couple of pre-tests for single layer are the float test and the bite test. These are like decades upon decades old tests. There are other methods and check out there.

Or you could just get a milk dud, or better yet…a KiTech tip from Outsvile. They’ve done all the testing and conditioning for you.

I generally shoot with Triangles. I use the bite test before putting one on. If not a Triangle, a Kitech Hard Techno-Dud. I dont bother biting it. Aside from that, one of my cues came with a good LePro in it, so there’s no reason for me to take it off.
Click to expand...
What do you look for in the float or bite test?
 
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