Tip recomendations?

[racer rx]

I have tried quite a few medium hard tips, such as Morri, Talisman med, and WB, Everest, Triangle, Lepro and Water Buffalo non-lam.

With that said: I find myself mis-cueing on deep draw shots if I have not spent that much time on the table.

So I am in search of a tip that is a little softer and a little more forgiving than my current tip "Lepro" . Any recommendations? I was thinking of a Tiger Med. I have heard this is a little softer than the Lepro's.

 

[Zims Rack]

I have tried quite a few medium hard tips, such as Morri, Talisman med, and WB, Everest, Triangle, Lepro and Water Buffalo non-lam.

With that said: I find myself mis-cueing on deep draw shots if I have not spent that much time on the table.

So I am in search of a tip that is a little softer and a little more forgiving than my current tip "Lepro" . Any recommendations? I was thinking of a Tiger Med. I have heard this is a little softer than the Lepro's.

Maybe you're just rushing your draw shots and not making contact with the CB at the correct position and hitting it too low, causing the miscues. Try slowing down when you're drawing, keep a smooth straight stroke, no "punching" or "poking" to get it to draw. I have been using LePros for years and haven't had any real problems, maybe mushrooming a little over time (easy fix).
Thanks and good luck,
Zim

 

[Koop]

I was having the same problem a while back and Michael Webb recommended a softer Triangle tip. He installed it and I literally did not miscue again. Just my two cents but it really worked.

Dave

 

[CaptainJR]

I have tried quite a few medium hard tips, such as Morri, Talisman med, and WB, Everest, Triangle, Lepro and Water Buffalo non-lam.

With that said: I find myself mis-cueing on deep draw shots if I have not spent that much time on the table.

So I am in search of a tip that is a little softer and a little more forgiving than my current tip "Lepro" . Any recommendations? I was thinking of a Tiger Med. I have heard this is a little softer than the Lepro's.

What do you mean by 'deep draw shots'. Low on the que or length of the table draw? I had a period when I was misqueing to much, especially when I was trying to draw quite a bit. Through thinking about my break shot, I solved my problem. I remembered that sometimes on my break shot instead of the que staying center of the table it will draw all the way back to me and half way back up the table again. When this happened on the break I was sure that I hadn't missed the center of the que by much at all, just below center. It showed me that when using a firm hit, the amount below center that you need to get a draw is very small (half a tip at most). So now I try to remember to use my stroke to draw the que rather than how low I hit on the que. (thank you Fred).

JR

 

[Mike Templeton]

I have tried quite a few medium hard tips, such as Morri, Talisman med, and WB, Everest, Triangle, Lepro and Water Buffalo non-lam.

With that said: I find myself mis-cueing on deep draw shots if I have not spent that much time on the table.

So I am in search of a tip that is a little softer and a little more forgiving than my current tip "Lepro" . Any recommendations? I was thinking of a Tiger Med. I have heard this is a little softer than the Lepro's.

I had the same problem, and tried a Sniper. I have not miscued since.

Mike

 

[blud]

tips

I have tried quite a few medium hard tips, such as Morri, Talisman med, and WB, Everest, Triangle, Lepro and Water Buffalo non-lam.

With that said: I find myself mis-cueing on deep draw shots if I have not spent that much time on the table.

So I am in search of a tip that is a little softer and a little more forgiving than my current tip "Lepro" . Any recommendations? I was thinking of a Tiger Med. I have heard this is a little softer than the Lepro's.

Hi racer,
sounds like two things are going wrong. First, a soft tip "will not" grip the ball better than a harder one.

I think maybe your having trouble with your draw stroke. Try not to elevate the back of the cue so high, and the other thing is maybe your tip is glazed over and needs roughing up a little and or it's not shapped properly. Have a qualified cue-re-pair guy look at the tip, then find a really good player to help you with your stroke.

Tips, there are many to choose from today. LePro's are the best average tips out there.Try a med, LePro or med-triangle,with the tip shaped properly, and improving your stroke, this problem might just go away.
All the best to you

blud

 

[bill190]

I went on a "tip brand, tip shape, and shaft size research frenzy" a while back. I only may need a draw shot once or twice during a tournament, but when I need it, it is critical. I missed one of these shots once too many times and decided to do something about it.

I needed to be able to draw the cue ball back a predictable distance.

I'll save you a lot of time, I use a Moori III (Q) tip - dime shaped on a 12.5mm shaft. And I religously keep it a dime shape with a 1/2" electrical PVC cut in half about 8 inches long and 220 grit sand paper. (No eyeballing when shaping my tip!)

I found that soft tips draw the best, smaller tips draw better, and dime shapes draw better. But the Moori III S, M, or Q will all draw just as well! (Yeaaa!)

Anyway, once I found the best size - 12.5mm largest shaft you can get a dime shape on (for all around playing, not just draw), best shape (dime shape best for draw, quarter worst) and best tip which always plays the same (Moori III -Q), and a good shaping tool to keep a consistent shape (PVC), I was able to practice my draw shots and consistently draw back specific distances. (1 diamond, 2 diamonds, half table, etc.)

Chalking extremely well before each draw shot...

I shoot as level as possible with a closed bridge and place my hand all the way back on the butt of the cue and follow through so the tip hits the table after hitting the cue ball. I control the distance of draw back with the speed of the hit, although this depends on the distance between the cue ball and object ball.

Note: The problem with my old tip was that it varied in surface texture and needed scuffing as it became slick with play. So depending on the condition of my tip, I would get different draw. Now that I have a consistent tip in all respects, I get consistent results.

 

[Koop]

I went on a "tip brand, tip shape, and shaft size research frenzy" a while back. I only may need a draw shot once or twice during a tournament, but when I need it, it is critical. I missed one of these shots once too many times and decided to do something about it.

I needed to be able to draw the cue ball back a predictable distance.

I'll save you a lot of time, I use a Moori III (Q) tip - dime shaped on a 12.5mm shaft. And I religously keep it a dime shape with a 1/2" electrical PVC cut in half about 8 inches long and 220 grit sand paper. (No eyeballing when shaping my tip!)

I found that soft tips draw the best, smaller tips draw better, and dime shapes draw better. But the Moori III S, M, or Q will all draw just as well! (Yeaaa!)

Anyway, once I found the best size - 12.5mm largest shaft you can get a dime shape on (for all around playing, not just draw), best shape (dime shape best for draw, quarter worst) and best tip which always plays the same (Moori III -Q), and a good shaping tool to keep a consistent shape (PVC), I was able to practice my draw shots and consistently draw back specific distances. (1 diamond, 2 diamonds, half table, etc.)

Chalking extremely well before each draw shot...

I shoot as level as possible with a closed bridge and place my hand all the way back on the butt of the cue and follow through so the tip hits the table after hitting the cue ball. I control the distance of draw back with the speed of the hit, although this depends on the distance between the cue ball and object ball.

Note: The problem with my old tip was that it varied in surface texture and needed scuffing as it became slick with play. So depending on the condition of my tip, I would get different draw. Now that I have a consistent tip in all respects, I get consistent results.

Nice post. Maybe I need to try the Moori. Just have to force myself to remember to chalk.

Dave

 

[bill190]

Nice post. Maybe I need to try the Moori. Just have to force myself to remember to chalk.

Dave

Ohhhhhhh! Maybe you don't need a new tip. The MOST important thing I learned was to chalk well before *each* draw shot. And to be sure chalk is on the edges of the tip and there are no slick shiny spots anywhere. The sides of the tip are what is used when shooting draw. Kind of scrape the edge of the chalk against the sides of the tip while rotating the cue. Rotate the cue under the light and inspect the tip to be sure there are no black shiny spots.

To experiment... Line up a row of balls in the center of table (between side pockets), then shoot in to corner pocket with draw with cue ball 1 diamond back on each shot (this is how I practice). But don't chalk and keep hitting balls. Next try it with chalking *well* before each shot. Big difference.

For more practice, do above but get cue ball to come back 1 diamond, 2 diamonds, 3 diamonds, etc. Takes a lot of practice, a consistent tip, and a consistent stroke, but it can be done.

 

[racer rx]

Thanks for all the tips...hee hee...

I will try to sloooow down on my stroke. And I might be hitting it a little to low. With that said... a softer tip still might help but I forgot to ask will it increase deflection as well?