Tip sizes and table sizes

C

cluelesscuer

New member
I have two ob classic shafts. One is how they come standard, with a 12.75 tip size. The second was taken down to 12.3 when I order from seyberts.

I like how the 12.3 shaft plays on small tables as I feel as I have more cue ball control with it. But on bigger tables for the longer shots, I feel like I have more trouble pocketing balls with the 12.3 shaft.

Is this typical? Do people feel like different tips sizes and/or tapers (stronger vs more pro) play better on different table sizes. As well, perhaps the condition of the table (slower tables need bigger tip size)?
 
The smaller the tip size, the more precise your stroke needs to be.

The longer the shot, the worse your flaws come through and butcher shots.
 
I think the key component here is contact point on the object ball. With a smaller tip diameter, the margin for error in your contact point is much smaller. On a smaller table the margin for error is higher as the distance the OB has to travel after contact is less.

What this means is, a ball that you apply a 1/4 tip of english to (unintentionally) on a 7 footer goes in, and the same ball on a larger table doesn't, as the extra 12-18" the ball travels accounts to the percentage of inaccuracy compounded by length.

I hope this makes sense...
When I went from playing with a Z shaft 5 hours a day 7 days a week... to only being able to play once or twice a week... my big table game went to GARBAGE.
I could still play quite well on smaller tables, but 9 footers were killing me.
I switched back to a full sized 13mm tip and had much better luck, but when my table time frequency went up again, I was able to switch back to a smaller tip.

Either way, my opinion is to pick a tip size that is comfortable for you, stick with it, and play as much as possible... and when you miss a ball... THINK ABOUT HOW YOU MISSED. Did you miss long, short, was your aiming off, did you jump up, did you body english it...
using a measle ball will also aid in this, as you can more easily tell what english is applied to the CB, and you can tell whether the ball is doing what YOU THINK you told it to do
 
nineballsafety8 said:
I think the key component here is contact point on the object ball. With a smaller tip diameter, the margin for error in your contact point is much smaller. On a smaller table the margin for error is higher as the distance the OB has to travel after contact is less.

What this means is, a ball that you apply a 1/4 tip of english to (unintentionally) on a 7 footer goes in, and the same ball on a larger table doesn't, as the extra 12-18" the ball travels accounts to the percentage of inaccuracy compounded by length.

I hope this makes sense...
When I went from playing with a Z shaft 5 hours a day 7 days a week... to only being able to play once or twice a week... my big table game went to GARBAGE.
I could still play quite well on smaller tables, but 9 footers were killing me.
I switched back to a full sized 13mm tip and had much better luck, but when my table time frequency went up again, I was able to switch back to a smaller tip.

Either way, my opinion is to pick a tip size that is comfortable for you, stick with it, and play as much as possible... and when you miss a ball... THINK ABOUT HOW YOU MISSED. Did you miss long, short, was your aiming off, did you jump up, did you body english it...
using a measle ball will also aid in this, as you can more easily tell what english is applied to the CB, and you can tell whether the ball is doing what YOU THINK you told it to do
Click to expand...

I couldn't agree more. I had a shaft that was 11.7 for bar tables and a 12.75 for big tables. I used to think it made a big difference. Seemed to me that my thin shaft did make a difference in turning balls on banking and high English shots, but nothing could take the place of playing more often (5-6 Times per week vs. 1-2 Times per week). As my work and home schedules kept me from playing as much, I couldn't make balls nearly as confidently with the small shaft.
 
maybe its not the size of the shaft but rather the radius of your tip, is it dime, nickel or quarter? Also I think your pivot plays a huge role in pocketing balls. even though they are the same shaft, I bet the difference in size changes the pivot point just a tad, try a slightly longer bridge with the small shaft. DrDave has some info on this.
 
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