Titlist Conversion Questions

[CamposCues]

I was considering an attempt at making a sneaky pete style conversion
out of a Titlist for my personal playing cue. I just seem to feel more
comfortable with a cue with no wrap (leather or linen).

I bought a couple (16oz and 20oz) but don't know if either will be easy
to do this with. I'm a rookie and didn't know...but I'm sure you guys
all know about the extreme taper right about where the joint would need
to be. It is just too thin. Is it possible to build it up with finish
or some other way so that a normal joint diameter can be achieved? If
I was putting in a wrap it would be no problem just to make a forearm
and butt out of them but I don't know how to go about making a sneaky
pete. Is it even possible? Like I said, I'm a rookie and am no
stranger to trial and error but I don't want to trash a Titlist
tinkering around. That could get expensive. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Michael Webb]

Core into the bottom of the cue and use a wood that compliments the titlist. You can add up to 5 inches and still have it look okay if it's done tastefully.

 

[RSB-Refugee]

Core into the bottom of the cue and use a wood that compliments the titlist. You can add up to 5 inches and still have it look okay if it's done tastefully.

I like that look, a lot better than adding a handle. How short would a Titlist be, if you went with .840 at the joint and did not add any length to it. I have an old house cue that I cut off at .840, it is 31 1/8".

Tracy

 

[Murray Tucker]

I was considering an attempt at making a sneaky pete style conversion
out of a Titlist for my personal playing cue. I just seem to feel more
comfortable with a cue with no wrap (leather or linen).

I bought a couple (16oz and 20oz) but don't know if either will be easy
to do this with. I'm a rookie and didn't know...but I'm sure you guys
all know about the extreme taper right about where the joint would need
to be. It is just too thin. Is it possible to build it up with finish
or some other way so that a normal joint diameter can be achieved? If
I was putting in a wrap it would be no problem just to make a forearm
and butt out of them but I don't know how to go about making a sneaky
pete. Is it even possible? Like I said, I'm a rookie and am no
stranger to trial and error but I don't want to trash a Titlist
tinkering around. That could get expensive. Any help would be appreciated.

I'm have a wrapless titleist in the works right now(http://www.murraytucker.com/more_cues_in_progress.htm). It is one of the few blanks that I have come across that I could do a full .840 at the joint without adding length somewhere. I am also doing a wrapless conversion where I will be adding 4 inches to the lenth using a matching piece of rosewood.

 

[CamposCues]

Titlist

I like that look, a lot better than adding a handle. How short would a Titlist be, if you went with .840 at the joint and did not add any length to it. I have an old house cue that I cut off at .840, it is 31 1/8".

Tracy

Yeah, I haven't seen too many of them done in the sneaky pete style, probably because of the problem I am encountering with the taper. I saw a Prather done this way but I can't remember if it had any other wood added to the bottom. I didn't pay attention at the time.

The two I have are about .840 at 27" and that's in the one piece state that they are in. I'd lose a tad of that once some tapering or sanding has been done. I think I will just have to add a few inches of something at the bottom.

The 20oz I have is really fat at the butt end. Will I encounter any problems (cosmetic or structural) in the splice area if I try to taper it down to size? I would have to take off a ton to get it down to size at the butt end. Would I be better off doing this with a smaller Titlist?

 

[CamposCues]

Wrapless Titlist

I'm have a wrapless titleist in the works right now(http://www.murraytucker.com/more_cues_in_progress.htm). It is one of the few blanks that I have come across that I could do a full .840 at the joint without adding length somewhere. I am also doing a wrapless conversion where I will be adding 4 inches to the lenth using a matching piece of rosewood.

Murray, that is very cool! That is what I want but I just don't know if it will work out with the cues I have now. What size Titlist was that? I may have to keep hunting for a better candidate. Thanks for the input fellas.

If anyone has one that this would work out with and wants to sell it, I would be interested in buying or trading.

 

[Michael Webb]

I like that look, a lot better than adding a handle. How short would a Titlist be, if you went with .840 at the joint and did not add any length to it. I have an old house cue that I cut off at .840, it is 31 1/8".

Tracy

All of the titlist I have seen range in size. Some easy questions before you buy are,
What's the joint size,
How long is it,
What's the size at the butt cap.
I've done about ten this year and everyone has been different.

 

[RSB-Refugee]

The 20oz I have is really fat at the butt end. Will I encounter any problems (cosmetic or structural) in the splice area if I try to taper it down to size? I would have to take off a ton to get it down to size at the butt end. Would I be better off doing this with a smaller Titlist?

I probably have a lot less experience than you, but from what you are describing, I think I would go with a compound taper to reduce butt thickness. That should preserve more point length.

Tracy

 

[RSB-Refugee]

All of the titlist I have seen range in size. Some easy questions before you buy are,
What's the joint size,
How long is it,
What's the size at the butt cap.
I've done about ten this year and everyone has been different.

That is interesting. Do you suppose the wide variances are due to them being turned by hand? Or do you think some are thinner in the middle so they could turn inconsistencies out. IOW if one had a slight warp, it would have to be thinner in the middle to correct it?

Tracy

 

[Michael Webb]

That is interesting. Do you suppose the wide variances are due to them being turned by hand? Or do you think some are thinner in the middle so they could turn inconsistencies out. IOW if one had a slight warp, it would have to be thinner in the middle to correct it?

Tracy

I try to take everyone on an invidual basis, there are so many different ones out there, there are also a couple of hundred that were not made here but made in Japan. I guess the end result would depend on knowing your average cue spec's, start to finish.