Titlist Conversion

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NOSAJ03

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Would it be more costly to buy a full titlist conversion from a cuemaker or provide the titlist and have the cuemaker complete the conversion. I was reading an old issue of Inside Pool and the the column that Jim Buss does monthly was about the titlist conversion. In the article he advised that it would be cheaper to provide the full cue and have the cuemaker make it rather than just buy it from them fully made. Why would that be so? Also why are they such prized cues? Is it because they are full splice with colorful veneers? Ive always wondered and I think curiosity is going to get the best of me (and my wallet :) )
 
I contemplated this a few months back and noticed that it would cost @ 1000.00 to buy one from the cuemaker. I choose to buy a titlist and have it converted (cost @ 900 total ... got some inlays and a Ivory joint so it was worth it). I wanted to keep the full splice so that was one of my reasons for not buying a converted cue. Some converted cues simply use the Forearm section of the Titlist.

My cue came out very well and have been offered what I put into it so it was a good investment. Try to find a good cuemaker to do the conversion for you. You might spend more, but it will pay off if you ever need to get rid of the cue.
 
Let's assume you and the cuemaker can both buy the Titlist for the same price. As in all businesses people mark up their parts, then add labor. So you are paying the mark up on the parts before the cuemaker starts. In other words you are paying him what he feels the blank is worth to part with it and then you are paying him for his labor. You provide the blank and you are only paying for the labor.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
 
Both ways are used. Many times we only use the forearm because the butt might be too thin or too light.
 
What is the sense in only using the forearm? Isn't the whole point of using a Titlist so you can have a full splice. If your only using the forearm why not just build one from scratch and build the forearm however you want. I was under the impression that guys liked Titlist conversions because of how the full splice hit.
 
Isn't the whole point of using a Titlist so you can have a full splice.
It's also neat to have a part of cue history in your hands, so for many the full splice may be secondary. My next "fancy" cue will be a conversion without a wrap, spendy for a sneaky pete but I really like the full splice look and feel.

Andy
 
IMO, what makes a Titlist special Is the process originally used to make it. Building a full splice with multiple veneers is a completely different procedure than simply building a forearm with veneers and adding a handle. In my mind this process is what accounts for alot of its value and makes it worthy of the time and effort involved in doing the conversion. If you cut the forearm off and add a handle you have negated what the original makers were trying to achieve. Building full splice veneered cues is no easy task proven by the fact that so few makers build them, and the ones that do are well compensated for there efforts.
 
You are right Canadian. But if the cue is too light or too thin or too short to use as a full splice butt, there is another thing you are not considering. The full splice with veneers allow the maple coming back down into the points to thin out to nothing instead of stopping at say 1/8" wide and squared off at the bottom. This produces a look that is sought after in itself. I bought Burton Spain blanks when he was alive and still have a few. Most think Burton only made full splice full length butts. That is not true. He also made forearms separate, but made them with the full splice method that gave the same look. I still have a few of his blanks and almost have one done using one of his forearms. Same look as his full length butts, but yes it is put together at the wrap joing like most other cues. So instead of not using the Titlist that is too light or too short or too thin, use the forearm piece to give that look that is sought after, with the hit that the particular cuemaker has achieved with his own balance and joining system. I don't want my cues to play like an old Hoppe cue.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
 
Anyone reconize these shortsplice blanks?
 

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cueman said:
You are right Canadian. But if the cue is too light or too thin or too short to use as a full splice butt, there is another thing you are not considering. The full splice with veneers allow the maple coming back down into the points to thin out to nothing instead of stopping at say 1/8" wide and squared off at the bottom. This produces a look that is sought after in itself. I bought Burton Spain blanks when he was alive and still have a few. Most think Burton only made full splice full length butts. That is not true. He also made forearms separate, but made them with the full splice method that gave the same look. I still have a few of his blanks and almost have one done using one of his forearms. Same look as his full length butts, but yes it is put together at the wrap joing like most other cues. So instead of not using the Titlist that is too light or too short or too thin, use the forearm piece to give that look that is sought after, with the hit that the particular cuemaker has achieved with his own balance and joining system. I don't want my cues to play like an old Hoppe cue.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
Click to expand...
Chris,
I do understand were you are coming from, if the "look" is all that the customer is after than sure that is a viable solution providing the donor cue came at a very reasonable price.
 
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