Torquing Diamond Rail Bolts

[9andout]

Real King Cobra posted this info about a year ago in a separate thread.
I then titled a thread about it called Real King Cobra is the man! I was so pumped after I did it and saw the difference.lol
Anyway, some said to retitle the thread for search purposes. I never did.
Here's a new thread with a short video to clarify which bolts they are. Some people were confused. Torque 'em up! You'll be glad you did! I do mine in the Spring and Fall now.
Thanks again Glen!
Link to old thread: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/realkingcobra-is-the-man.493097/

 

[EDRJR]

What changed in how the table plays after tightening the rail bolts? Red label or blue? Did the bank angles lengthen or shorten? Thank you for posting this.

 

[L I F D 1]

Shoot Straight, Okay

 

[garczar]

What changed in how the table plays after tightening the rail bolts? Red label or blue? Did the bank angles lengthen or shorten? Thank you for posting this.

I've played on GC's before/after a bolt was snugged. Angles off the rail weren't all that different but speed really picked up. Mind you this was just one bolt. Multiple loose rail bolts could really play havoc on any table.

 

[jimmyco]

Nice video. But where did you find a torque wrench that reads 10 foot pounds?

You can use an inch pound tool, just multiply by 12.

And use the shortest extension possible.

Shoot straight.

 

[Lawnboy77]

Yep, keeping those rail bolts secure is a good idea to keep it playing fast.

Below is a good video by Diamond Billiards for those particular tables.

 

[9andout]

What changed in how the table plays after tightening the rail bolts? Red label or blue? Did the bank angles lengthen or shorten? Thank you for posting this.

It just seemed more lively. Easier to get around the table. Mine were fairly lose though.
Not sure about the bank angle changing.
Kicks go exactly where they should according to the Diamonds.

 

[9andout]

Nice video. But where did you find a torque wrench that reads 10 foot pounds?

You can use an inch pound tool, just multiply by 12.

And use the shortest extension possible.

Shoot straight.

Just my 3/8" torque wrench.
1/4" drive might be more accurate.

 

[AtLarge]

Can you give us a sense of approximately how forcefully the bolts need to be tightened If you are not using a torque wrench?

 

[ChrisinNC]

Can you give us a sense of approximately how forcefully the bolts need to be tightened If you are not using a torque wrench?

Just need to use common sense to torque the rail bolts tight with a ratchet wrench but certainly NOT as tight as you can possibly get it, as that will risk stripping it, which will create a huge issue requiring repair.

 

[Lawnboy77]

Just my 3/8" torque wrench.
1/4" drive might be more accurate.

Probably not a 1/4” drive TQ wrench. I don’t think they make a 1/4” drive TQ wrench in the ft.lb. range. If you were to try and torque anything to 15 ft.lbs. with a 1/4" drive tool in most cases the drive would break off. The quality tools like Snap-on, or Matco might survive that, but I doubt it.

Can you give us a sense of approximately how forcefully the bolts need to be tightened If you are not using a torque wrench?

Like ChrisnNC stated, just use common sense when tightening those rail bolts and all will be fine. If you are using a speed handle it would just be like this...make sure the bolt and domed washer is seated, then further tighten with a twist of the wrist, no need to put your body weight into it. It’s just wooden rails with inserts embedded. No need to put excess TQ on that and risk pulling out an insert.

 

[9andout]

Probably not a 1/4” drive TQ wrench. I don’t think they make a 1/4” drive TQ wrench in the ft.lb. range. If you were to try and torque anything to 15 ft.lbs. with a 1/4" drive tool in most cases the drive would break off. The quality tools like Snap-on, or Matco might survive that, but I doubt it.



Like ChrisnNC stated, just use common sense when tightening those rail bolts and all will be fine. If you are using a speed handle it would just be like this...make sure the bolt and domed washer is seated, then further tighten with a twist of the wrist, no need to put your body weight into it. It’s just wooden rails with inserts embedded. No need to put excess TQ on that and risk pulling out an insert.

Someone mentioned in/lbs that's why I mentioned it. I only have 3/8" , 1/2" and 3/4" drive myself. Last time I was doing in/lb torquing it was with and adjustable (Crescent) TQ wrench on small stuff at work.