Valley leveling

billsey

Registered
One of the tables I play on fairly often has a roll out along one side. I have a machinists level and am willing to dive into trying to get it closer to level. It's an old enough table that the leg adjustments use the C spanner wrench rather than a large crescent wrench. One of the other players said you have to jack up the end before making an adjustment to the leg, which didn't sound like it's liable to be best practice, since you have to jack it up, then let it down, then jack it back up then ... It's sitting on concrete flooring and I can't come up with any reason why you wouldn't adjust with the table still sitting on the floor. What do the professionals think?
 
One of the tables I play on fairly often has a roll out along one side. I have a machinists level and am willing to dive into trying to get it closer to level. It's an old enough table that the leg adjustments use the C spanner wrench rather than a large crescent wrench. One of the other players said you have to jack up the end before making an adjustment to the leg, which didn't sound like it's liable to be best practice, since you have to jack it up, then let it down, then jack it back up then ... It's sitting on concrete flooring and I can't come up with any reason why you wouldn't adjust with the table still sitting on the floor. What do the professionals think?
I'm not a mechanic but I've done this several times.

Get a scrap piece of wood about 6" long and a bottle jack. Put the wood on top of the bottle jack to protect the table. Put it in the middle of the end rail you want to adjust and jack it up slightly. Turn the levelers as needed until level. Let the jack down and check for level. Repeat as needed.

It's way easier to adjust with no weight on the leveler. I've never tried it without a jack... it would be way more difficult, if even possible.
 
It seems to me like there is probably some play in the threads that would make it advantageous to have a load on those adjustment screws when changing the level, but I haven't heard anything yet from any of the pros. The last pair of tables I did I just used a big crescent wrench to make small adjustments and it worked fine. I'd like to know what the standard process is though, so I don't inadvertently do something bad...
 
It seems to me like there is probably some play in the threads that would make it advantageous to have a load on those adjustment screws when changing the level, but I haven't heard anything yet from any of the pros. The last pair of tables I did I just used a big crescent wrench to make small adjustments and it worked fine. I'd like to know what the standard process is though, so I don't inadvertently do something bad...
Not removing the weight from the foot will make it very difficult to turn the foot. In addition, it will scratch the hell out of the floor.

Always remove the weight, before adjusting the feet. Unless, of course, you have a table with bearing plates beneath the feet (ie. Gold Crown V-VI)
 
I put a couple of steps in a short piece of 2x4 for a fulcrum (giving adjustability) and a thin 2 foot piece of purple heart for a lever and just lever the bottom of the leg up enough to turn the foot. Super quick and easy.
Good luck, the cabinets on Valley tables are almost always a little off and you'll need to compromise some if you're only using the leg adjusters.
 
Back
Top