Veneer color bleed

[SSDiver2112]

Joint protectors can be a good way to experiment with different things before trying it out in an actual cue. Mistakes are much cheaper.

A customer wanted joint protectors to go with his Ebony/Cocobolo Ariel Carmeli cue. I decided to try to add matching veneers. Haven’t worked with them yet. They came out ok, but the veneer colors seemed to be dulled by the ebony.

I recently made a cue with an ebony maple blank and was careful to blow off the dust as I was sanding, and avoided alcohol wiping. It came out fine. The color “bleed” in the veneer would not go away as I sanded.

Was it absorbed through the glue between the maple veneer and the ebony?
The side grain of the veneer acts differently on the veneer and traps it?

I have searched and can’t seem to find any info about this.

Would some kind of black paper between the ebony and maple help or something else. I did use Titebond to glue all the pieces together. Is that fine or would epoxy work better.

Scott

(I tweaked the filters a bit on this one)

 

[Michael Webb]

Sucks when that happens. Usually happens more when you go finer than 220. A good sanding sealer like Deft laquer sanding sealer helps prevent it.
Some liike Bullseye
I like Deft.

 

[SSDiver2112]

Sucks when that happens. Usually happens more when you go finer than 220. A good sanding sealer like Deft laquer sanding sealer helps prevent it.
Some liike Bullseye
I like Deft.

I did sand to a finer grit so I will back that up and seal first. I tried scraping just the veneer with a razor blade to remove the top layer, but it didn’t go away. I thought maybe the glue stained with ebony soaked into the veneer staining it throughout.

I did do some tests with some scraps but I used Purpleheart. Finish wise just CA was the clearest was to go, but I was wanting to get a different look so I shellaced them and the used Tru-Oil.

I will try out your advice. Shellac is too yellowing for many pro clear sealer. I’ll get some Deft and see if I can do better.

 

[Michael Webb]

I did sand to a finer grit so I will back that up and seal first. I tried scraping just the veneer with a razor blade to remove the top layer, but it didn’t go away. I thought maybe the glue stained with ebony soaked into the veneer staining it throughout.

I did do some tests with some scraps but I used Purpleheart. Finish wise just CA was the clearest was to go, but I was wanting to get a different look so I shellaced them and the used Tru-Oil.

I will try out your advice. Shellac is too yellowing for many pro clear sealer. I’ll get some Deft and see if I can do better.

Try this,
Add a .030 fiber or phenolic black ring next to the whites.
They while spinning. Fold a paper towel and put laquer thinner on it so you just hit the ebony. Then do the coc side. A couple of times.
Then sanding sealer and sand. That should help

 

[SSDiver2112]

Try this,
Add a .030 fiber or phenolic black ring next to the whites.
They while spinning. Fold a paper towel and put laquer thinner on it so you just hit the ebony. Then do the coc side. A couple of times.
Then sanding sealer and sand. That should help

That will work good for latitudinal veneers like the one I just did, but I have an idea that will also have longitudinal veneers. That's why I was asking if anyone put paper or sheets of fiber or something in between or is it just my limited experience.

 

[Michael Webb]

That will work good for latitudinal veneers like the one I just did, but I have an idea that will also have longitudinal veneers. That's why I was asking if anyone put paper or sheets of fiber or something in between or is it just my limited experience.

When ever I use those colors in veneers. I use the deft and wipe directional. Each point with a seperate paper towel
Actually anytime I use ebony or coc in a cue