Viking shaft insert

olsonsview

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Any of you guys have ideas on the stainless steel insert for viking shafts with the extra set of threads on the Piloted insert that have the same pitch as the screw? Or do you maybe just use a standard insert and use a smooth surfaced pilot with no threading? It seems like a redundant feature at first thought.
 
Has anyone run into this kind of shaft before? The shaft insert with a female 5/16x18 thread also has rather large pilot protruding with the outside threaded at 18 tpi that fits into a stainless steel butt collar with internal threads. Both sets of threads are engaged for the last 0.400 inch or so when the shaft is tightened to the butt. The customer wants this same type collar on a replacement shaft. I was nver approached to make one before, so I am looking to the more experienced cuemakers out there for advice.
 
I run into this all the time. Viking will not sell me the double threaded insert, or super joint, as it was called. I usually just make a standard 5/16-18, flat faced shaft. It may soften the hit but it works.
 
Thanks! I was not able to locate any of those super joint inserts anywhere. Since it is for a friend, I may just make one from some brass stock. It should be no problem getting the threads aligned if I cut both sets of threads with the threading dial engaged and not moved until I cut both. I think I would rather have the insert totally hidden , instead of that huge hunk of SSteel at the end of the shaft, not pretty! I better make sure Viking did not get "cute" though and purposely misalign the threads to make it tougher to copy?
 
olsonsview said:
Thanks! I was not able to locate any of those super joint inserts anywhere. Since it is for a friend, I may just make one from some brass stock. It should be no problem getting the threads aligned if I cut both sets of threads with the threading dial engaged and not moved until I cut both. I think I would rather have the insert totally hidden , instead of that huge hunk of SSteel at the end of the shaft, not pretty! I better make sure Viking did not get "cute" though and purposely misalign the threads to make it tougher to copy?

It still sounds tough to align the inner and outer thread as the tooling needs to be changed to cut inner and outer.

Dick
 
could the thread tool first cut the inner, then move the tool out of the hole and position it on the outer surface of the pilot, start on the front, and work towards the butt end with the lathe in reverse?
May possibly use the same tool and not move it in the holder? I am not the most experienced machinist by far, it was only a hobby for me over the years. I am just trying to think this out, before I ruin a lot of material.
 
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