What makes a cue to a solid break cue?

sammy1712

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I m searching since a longer time to get a real solid break cue. No J/B
For jumb shots I like to have my seperate jumb cue.
Please let me know, what you think I should look for?
If I let built one, what would be the criterias different to a player in your eyes?

Thanks for your opinion.

BTW, any recommendations for a cue builder, which is known for great break cues?

Br,
Gerhard
 
Last edited:
Our jump/break cues work great for either breaking or jumping. I use a tip ferrule system that allows you to break with super hard leather and jump with phenolic. But if you only want to break with it that is fine also. I use a laminated shaft for stiffness and weigh the cues between 19 and 20 ounces for a nice breaking weight.
Here is a link for more information. The break cues are at the bottom of the page.
http://www.hightowercues.com/index.php?page=cues9

000_0088_000.JPG
 
tip ferrule good wood and taper

something that interested me was mike gulyassy had a break cue with different extensions and 2 shafts in a suitcase for 250$

good deal IMO. i boke with one and they seems real solid nice thick stiff taper.
 
Last edited:
sammy1712 said:
I m searching since a longer time to get a real solid break cue. No J/B
For jumb shots I like to have my seperate jumb cue.
Please let me know, what you think I should look for?
If I let built one, what would be the criterias different to a player in your eyes?

Thanks for your opinion.

BTW, any recommendations for a cue builder, which is known for great break cues?

Br,
Gerhard

What you should look for is what you like in a break cue...
This is an personal preference thing and I think that you should experiment with different characteristics until you can understand what makes a better break cue for you (this is also true to playing cues and jump cues)

Balance
The modern break cue have a rear balance, I prefer a forward balance as I like to grip the cue on the break closer to the joint, this allow me a longer follow through...

Shaft taper
Most modern break cues have a thicker shaft with a stronger tapper, it gives more power to the shot but I feel that it gives less control, I prefer a taper that is closer to a pro taper.

Tip
Hard tips are always recommended for breaking, how hard is again up to you. The hardness that you prefer would reflect on the tip material, it could be hard leather or phenolic (there are also the phenolic tip/ferrule combos) or other materials. I wouldn't go with anything harder then phenolic, you'll just damage the cue ball... in fact I really like the White Diamond tips for breaking, I don't know what are they made of but they are softer then phenolic.

Weight
Some will tell you that "lighter is better". I agree with this and I like a break cue to be anywhere between 17oz to 18oz. with a light, cue it's the stroke and speed of the stroke that provide a big break and not the mass of the cue, this way the break shot is more controllable.

Since you are looking for a dedicated break cue then I can recommend the Predator BK2. I have one and it fits all my preferences in a break cue plus the lower deflection (big benefit for a break cue) and the matte finish on the front end of the butt that allows an easier follow through pass the joint. Mind you that it usually comes with a rear balance but if it has a weight bolt and you remove it then the balance point move forward.

If you feel like you have to go custom then I'm sure you'll find on this board many good cue makers that will build you a great cue for a good price.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for answer!
I agree to a forward balance and a thicker shaft around 13.2mm. Right now I m using a white diamond bu control of cue ball is a bit less with it. For weight I m now used to 19.5 to 19.75 oz after a lot of test I did meanwhile.

Predator B2K is no choice for me due to personal;)

I will look around to get a custom plain jane BEM as break cue :D
 
I use a laminated shaft with a modified pro taper. 13mm at the ferrule. I prefer 18.5ounces , I found speed is more important than weight. My break cues are weighted more to the rear of the cue( that why I use aluminum for the butt cap. I believe it helps with follow through after contact with the cue ball. Its taken several years for me to perfect my break cues, so far every one ive built and sold ive had no complaints! Its all about taper. You have to figure out what balance, weight, taper, and diameter best fits you before you decide what break cue is the best fit. Hope this helps, kevin mcclain
 
Do you guys cap your break cue ferrules (with a leather tip), or does your tenon extend through?
 
Back
Top