What tips, ferrules and stain belong on 100-year-old house cues?
- Thread starter Paul_#_
- Start date
xX-Wizard-Xx
Well-known member
I would put as much carbon fiber on them as possible ... Cf ferrule cf wrap cf tip cf bumper ... This will appeal to the current market of customers who get googly eyed at carbon fiber
I'm not a cuemaker but ferrules are a whole different story than the bumpers. If you can find a cuemaker that does full length cues I'd suggest you have them done professionally. Same with the finishing work. It will cost you more but the end result will likely be much nicer. The big trick is finding a good cuemaker that still does full length cues.
You might be able to find a local pool hall that has a GOOD repair person to do the job.
You don't want to end up with cheap ass slide on tips.
You might be able to find a local pool hall that has a GOOD repair person to do the job.
You don't want to end up with cheap ass slide on tips.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
They used lathes to make those cues.
As for finish, use bullseye shellac sanding sealer. It is a great finish that can be polished. Ready to recoat in a half hour, not noxious odor, apply with a cloth. Probably build up at least 10 coats. Shellac is repairable. It's probably what they used originally.
I use shellac on a lot of my projects, like tables, headphones, amplifier cases. Nothing brings out the natural glow of wood like shellac.
To replace ferrules you will need access to a lathe and it will be one that can handle a full length cue. If you're trying to restore them back to original condition you would likely want to use fiber ferrules in either white or black. That's what the house cues came with and the private cues usually had ivory.
Paul_#_
Well-known member
Elk Master and Le Pro cue tips are produced by The Tweeten Fibre Company in Chicago and was started in 1912.
https://tweeten.us/about/
White Fiber ferrules are available (could not find black). Looks like regular (ceramic?) ferrules to me. Vendor describes ferrule under Material only as Fiber. See Amazon at
Or ebay for fiber (spelled fibre) at
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2216846459...d=link&campid=5335988529&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
or Walmart:
JIXINGYUAN
https://tweeten.us/about/
White Fiber ferrules are available (could not find black). Looks like regular (ceramic?) ferrules to me. Vendor describes ferrule under Material only as Fiber. See Amazon at
40pcs Durable Fiber Billiard Cue Stick Ferrules Billiards Stick Pool Cue Ferrules Tubes Replacement Parts
Or ebay for fiber (spelled fibre) at
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2216846459...d=link&campid=5335988529&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
or Walmart:
JIXINGYUAN
40pcs Fiber Billiards Stick Pool Cue Ferrules Tubes Replacement Parts Repair Accessories 13MM 1inJIXINGY
Paul_#_
Well-known member
Black ferrules made of buffalo horn at https://www.cuesmith.com/black-buffalo-horn-ferrules/
That might be as close to fiber as is available today.
That might be as close to fiber as is available today.
Antler or bone, most commonly
As far as stain, there wasn't any, they just sealed these in lacquer. I use beeswax today for restorations
Agree, no stain!
However, nitro lacquers were not available commercially before 1925, and realistically not much used on woodwork until the late 1930's.
Even then, not common until late 40's and 50's.
Most cues before ww2 would have had shellac.
Mixed from flake.
The stuff in cans works, sort of. but it is not the same for a thin, but truly deep looking finish.
Have fun with the cues - it's addictive.
smt
PS: I have to check myself. Used to think "100 yrs old" meant something like "before 1883 when my grandfather was born"
Or in HS in 1967 it meant "around the time of the Civil War, give or take"
Seems it keeps creeping up and is now only 1924 - when many of our parents were born!
How can that be?
Paul_#_
Well-known member
I am warming to shellac. Its finicky reputation may be due to it going bad with time (whether the liquid on store shelf or having made some in the shop that was left around). Zinsser's Bulls Eye makes things confusing, too. Their Bulls Eye "SHELLAC" has wax in it and is not suitable for some coats applied to it. Their Bulls Eye "SEAL COAT" --- as DeeDee Cues wrote --- is the shellac to buy --- it has no wax in it to allow various coats on it. Of course, it is not as hard as some of the newer acrylic finishes. I am hoping it can produce a very nice shine. I don't hear too much about it being glossy but I like a real, real glossy shine.
Some cues are sold as 'Vintage' and they are from the 1970s! So, a hundred years old is double Vintage.
Beeswax is the restorer's choice
Paul_#_
Well-known member
Why? I would like to use a finish that was used in 1900 and it appears shellac was so used on cues. Why choose instead beeswax?
Its possible a house cue then had a cheaper finish but, even if it did, I would like the glossier finish.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
He doesn't know what he is talking about. Even if they used beeswax, it would have been mixed with tung oil or linseed oil too make it harder and to raise the melting point. Beeswax on its own would melt in the hot sun.
Do you think beeswax just gets globbed on?
It doesn't melt, and you say I don't know what I'm talking about?
It doesn't cause issues with the materials, nondestructive to apply and remove.
A lot of antiquities restorers use it because it is incredibly gentle, and waterproof
It seals antique cues beautifully, but does not have the high gloss you want
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
I don't care what you think, but if you use pure beeswax as a finish for the cue, it will be sticky in your hand. If you use an oxidizing/polymerizing oil with the beeswax, you could have a good result, but it will take a loooong time to finish.