What To Do?

Purdman

Purdman

Banned
Guy hands me a Viking and asks me if I can fix it. Seems he crosed threaded the 5/16x18 pin and insert. I had a guy in the pool hall turn the shaft left while I turned the butt right. We held it very close to the joint.
Something turned, we both felt it. He counted the threads showing in between the butt and shaft ring. We turned it a few more times and had the same number of threads showing. This leaves me to believe that the insert is turning. :rolleyes: What to do?
Purdman
 
Don, are you saying the cue won't come apart all the way before the insert starts turning?
 
Is this one of those cues with Brass pin and brass insert. If it is then the brass froze into brass and the prognosis is not good. You may have to just hacksaw the pin in two and heat the pin to take it out of the butt and replace it and do the same for the shaft to replace the insert.
 
cueman said:
Is this one of those cues with Brass pin and brass insert. If it is then the brass froze into brass and the prognosis is not good. You may have to just hacksaw the pin in two and heat the pin to take it out of the butt and replace it and do the same for the shaft to replace the insert.
Click to expand...



If That's what Happened then You are correct, it is a fun one if the insert can't just pull out. If there's the space to get a blade in, then You either gotta to support it well while protecting it, and sawing, or use a really fine tooth blade so it doesn't snatch around and damage the shaft. One of those mini plumber's hacksaws may help. The ones that you can just flex to remove and change out the blades quickly. They have a thin blade, and are fine toothed. I cut SS with one sometimes, but Brass may cut even smoother, and easier then stainless atleast.

Greg
 
cueman said:
Is this one of those cues with Brass pin and brass insert. If it is then the brass froze into brass and the prognosis is not good. You may have to just hacksaw the pin in two and heat the pin to take it out of the butt and replace it and do the same for the shaft to replace the insert.
Click to expand...

Chris, it has a stainless pin and a brass insert. There is about 5/16 th. inch separation and will not move in either direction.
Don
 
Don,
DO NOT cut the pin. There's no need to and you'll only make the repair a bigger job than it needs to be. The problem is the insert and not the pin. Leave the pin alone.

Since we can conclude that the insert is spinning in the shaft, keep turning the shaft in the direction that you normally would to dis-assemble while pulling the shaft away from the handle and eventually the insert will come out of the shaft. The insert can then be easily removed from the pin, saving the pin and it's setting. Worst case scenario, you MIGHT have to dowel the shaft to install a new insert. You can install a std. 18 thrd. insert and bore it to .264" to accommodate the Viking QR pin.
 
KJ Cues said:
Don,
DO NOT cut the pin. There's no need to and you'll only make the repair a bigger job than it needs to be. The problem is the insert and not the pin. Leave the pin alone.

Since we can conclude that the insert is spinning in the shaft, keep turning the shaft in the direction that you normally would to dis-assemble while pulling the shaft away from the handle and eventually the insert will come out of the shaft. The insert can then be easily removed from the pin, saving the pin and it's setting. Worst case scenario, you MIGHT have to dowel the shaft to install a new insert. You can install a std. 18 thrd. insert and bore it to .264" to accommodate the Viking QR pin.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking of doing. We were pulling pretty hard yesterday. Here is a photo of the joint in it's current condition.
Thanks, Don P.
 
Last edited:
Lathe?

Could you put the butt in a lathe and turn it slow and that might speed up the process. Make sure it's not getting too hot as to soften the glue on the joint rings. Otherwise you'll need to keep turning and pulling.
 
Rybord said:
Could you put the butt in a lathe and turn it slow and that might speed up the process. Make sure it's not getting too hot as to soften the glue on the joint rings. Otherwise you'll need to keep turning and pulling.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the advice folks. I managed to fix it. There was enough room to put my soldering iron tip on the pin, very carefully, while sitting in the lathe. As soon as I put the iron down, she spun easily. I took it out and pulled on it and the pin came out of the shaft. Insert still intact. I ran a 5/16 x 18 tap in it and screwed it together. Walllaaa! thanks for the advice guys.
Don
I'll put my clothes back on now!
 
Last edited:
Purdman said:
Thanks for the advice folks. I managed to fix it. There was enough room to put my soldering iron tip on the pin, very carefully, while sitting in the lathe. As soon as I put the iron down, she spun easily. I took it out and pulled on it and the pin came out of the shaft. Insert still intact. I ran a 5/16 x 18 tap in it and screwed it together. Walllaaa! thanks for the advice guys.
Don
I'll put my clothes back on now!
Click to expand...
It was froze and spinning on the quick release part. Man you were blessed on this one.
 
cueman said:
It was froze and spinning on the quick release part. Man you were blessed on this one.
Click to expand...

You are exactly right Chris. I had a Samsara cue that was hard to put together and take apart for the same reason. I think the tight tolerance gets jamed with a bit of dirt or brass shaving. Thanks again!
Don
 
Lady luck to the rescue. Glad it wasn't a brass pin and worked out so well.:)
Not much chance of a brass insert stripping a SS pin luckily.;)
Some quick releases Get stuck while completely seated, and are a royal pain to get loose. I had atleast one where the insert came out of the shaft before I could get the insert loose from the pin. I had to do what KJ mentioned to reinstall the insert. I've had them kind of stick right where the threads start, and spin like that, but not so bad that I couldn't pull them apart. Anyway congrads, happy it worked out for ya.
 
Uniloc insterts I have had a problem with like that. I make em blind now.
 
I fix the Vikings and Unilocs that freeze up all of the time. I use a drop of penetrating oil on the pin so it runs into the insert. Give it an hour or so and then try to unscrew it again. That is what Predator told me to do several years ago.

BTW, tell player to clean their inserts once a month with alcohol and a q-tip to clear any brass dust. That's why it locks up. The dust is maleable and turns into a foil.
 
ratcues said:
I fix the Vikings and Unilocs that freeze up all of the time. I use a drop of penetrating oil on the pin so it runs into the insert. Give it an hour or so and then try to unscrew it again. That is what Predator told me to do several years ago.

BTW, tell player to clean their inserts once a month with alcohol and a q-tip to clear any brass dust. That's why it locks up. The dust is maleable and turns into a foil.
Click to expand...


First thing I did when I got it home. Took a cue tip and loaded it up with WD 40 and saturated the pin. It no help. I believe the heat from the soldering gun melted the "foil".
Purd

I try and give them all the advice I can. 90% of the time, it doesn't matter. I have a guy now who wants me to put a jump/break tip on a Cuetech.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top