What to look for in an disassembled Brunswick Kling?

[jesusmowsmylawn]

First I would like to say thank you to AZBilliards... Long time lurker, first time poster...

I am looking for advice on buying an antique Brunswick 10' Kling that is disassembled. I was wondering what I should look for? This will be my first pool table purchase, go big or go home!

So far what I have noticed about the table:
-wood beneath the slate does not look like it has been re-felted many times
-the rails are not original (no Brunswick logo on the head rail) and the veneer is lifting on one of the rails 2-3" length strip
-rail blinds are not original
-rail rubber seems alright but is at least 8 years old, not sure of the brand or work done on it before
-Chip on one of the wooden shelf pockets connected to the slate (Searching here said that having wooden shelf pockets was normal for this time period, please correct if wrong)
-Pockets are missing the trim on the outside
-the felt (simonis) I was told was used for 3-4 years but is at least 8 years old. It has been reused at least once after initial setup
-not sure if it is 760 or 860 (owner doesn't know)
-Overall condition of the base is good, a few chips in the veneer on the feet, looks good overall for being over 100
-Seller can not get a hold of the person who set it up for him 7 or 8 years ago

What hardware should be included (nuts & bolts)? The guy just showed me a box of bolts. From my understanding there should be 30 t-rail bolts and maybe six frame bolts? I'm just kind of guessing here. What other hardware should I be looking for?

How hard is the pocket trim on the exterior to attach?

Also, how much does it affect the value not having the original rails and rail blinds? Also what is the cost on having some badass solid wood rails made?

I want to be as well informed as possible before I purchase the table and I value AZBilliards opinion. I don't want a 2700lb boat anchor!

Thanks for all the help!
Ed

 

[phil dade]

Klings are great tables and my favorite along with my Non Parallel Novelty. This table sounds like a mess with as many non original Kling parts as real Kling parts. I think that greatly devalues the table and I am the Kind of person who would buy a Kling. I currently have a restored Centennial and the Non Parallel Novelty I referenced.

Any time you buy an older table, you should always do new rubber, cloth, have the slate blocked, rails calibrated...you want to be right. So all that stuff is worthless. You are left with about half a real Kling as it sounds.

A waste of $. I would pass.

 

[jesusmowsmylawn]

Thank you for that input I really appreciate it.

So original rails and rail blinds are very important for antique value.

Thank you for the help.