I believe this is a saratoga? Has a schaaf nameplate on it unfortunately. Interested in getting an old table but how many thousands of work would something like this be to just have the woodwork restored, not including rails and felt. TIA!
Whats it cost to restore a brunswick like this?
- Thread starter poolguppy
- Start date
What do you mean by "restore"?
Do you want a new looking table where the rebuilder takes cost efficient methods to make it a little better in some details than it left the factory, & coated with modern finishes?
Or do you mean actually "restore" = to condition it left the factory; but with repairs rather than replacement of the significant elements and structure?
Or do you just mean strip it, tighten up the structure, putty up the cracks, stain it with hardware store stain, and cover it with polyurinethane?
Any of the above should be equally playable depending on the rails and set up.
Some will cost more.
Sometimes you can pay the higher price and get the lesser work option.
smt
Good point haha I suppose what I would have in mind is full sand, replace the veneer (i dont know the quality ranges for veneers, something higher end looking) on the body, fill cracks, stain, and coat with whatever is a considered a quality finish.What do you mean by "restore"?
Do you want a new looking table where the rebuilder takes cost efficient methods to make it a little better in some details than it left the factory, & coated with modern finishes?
Or do you mean actually "restore" = to condition it left the factory; but with repairs rather than replacement of the significant elements and structure?
Or do you just mean strip it, tighten up the structure, putty up the cracks, stain it with hardware store stain, and cover it with polyurinethane?
Any of the above should be equally playable depending on the rails and set up.
Some will cost more.
Sometimes you can pay the higher price and get the lesser work option.
smt
It could be a Saratoga as you suggest, missing some carved trim; and feet; assuming you have reason to be certain it is BBC?
At least in 1898, it was only available in 5 x 10? Maybe later on they offered smaller? Or given (lack of) moldings and size, maybe it is some other make or model?
Figured mahogany is pretty high end veneer, and the old stuff was thicker than you would get today unless custom made.
In vaguely the condition you show some parts of probably 150 - 250 hrs if you don't have to make (replace) major parts.
Again, depends on finish, level of repair, whether custom moldings and inlays need to be made.
At least yours does not require inlays.
As you noted, this does not include the rails.
Nor slate repairs.
Some old rails would be better made new, than repaired, if you want to get a top playing table out of a T-rail configuration.
Eminently do-able if you do it yourself. If it is all hired out, maybe better off buying a new GC or Diamond if you want something less expensive to play on? Don't get me wrong, i love these old tables.
Probably 160 - 200 hrs in mine, over...ahem... a "few" years.
Actually, you can see by the posting dates that most of the actual work got done pretty quickly.
Then i got bogged down building out the room. FWIW, methods used for my own (my wifes's) table, are "most cost effective for good durability and convenience to set up & look definitely in the character of original from most perspectives". I know how to do museum work (which attempts to save every last scrap, and make all repairs obvious and reversible) but want something a little less obvious and a little more permanent for myself even if it takes faking some parts.
I'm a ski instructor all winter, so no time for further developments here until snow goes away.
smt
At least in 1898, it was only available in 5 x 10? Maybe later on they offered smaller? Or given (lack of) moldings and size, maybe it is some other make or model?
Figured mahogany is pretty high end veneer, and the old stuff was thicker than you would get today unless custom made.
In vaguely the condition you show some parts of
probably 150 - 250 hrs if you don't have to make (replace) major parts.Again, depends on finish, level of repair, whether custom moldings and inlays need to be made.
At least yours does not require inlays.
As you noted, this does not include the rails.
Nor slate repairs.
Some old rails would be better made new, than repaired, if you want to get a top playing table out of a T-rail configuration.
Eminently do-able if you do it yourself. If it is all hired out, maybe better off buying a new GC or Diamond if you want something less expensive to play on? Don't get me wrong, i love these old tables.
Probably 160 - 200 hrs in mine, over...ahem... a "few" years.
Actually, you can see by the posting dates that most of the actual work got done pretty quickly.
Then i got bogged down building out the room. FWIW, methods used for my own (my wifes's) table, are "most cost effective for good durability and convenience to set up & look definitely in the character of original from most perspectives". I know how to do museum work (which attempts to save every last scrap, and make all repairs obvious and reversible) but want something a little less obvious and a little more permanent for myself even if it takes faking some parts
.Library resource for pool table repair
NYS has a mandate for "maker spaces" in libraries. I never used the local facility, but know the guy who runs it, and have often donated small amounts of plywood & materials. He has been over to the shop to use my larger machines to break down...
forums.azbilliards.com
I'm a ski instructor all winter, so no time for further developments here until snow goes away.
smt
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