Whats the phenolic tip debate?

[9BallBust-O]

First question :I have never used a phenolic tip and I dont even know what the advantage is of one... so first off what difference do they offer for jump/break?

Who cares if someone uses them or not?

Example - I jump better with a full cue so if I play somewhere they dont allow a jump cue what do I care?

Second question .... at the ITP, They say no side rail breaks? So does your bridge hand have to be on the table and not on ANY rail or just not on the long side rail? Again - why does this matter?

Seriously curious?

 

[Icon of Sin]

First question :I have never used a phenolic tip and I dont even know what the advantage is of one... so first off what difference do they offer for jump/break?

Who cares if someone uses them or not?

Example - I jump better with a full cue so if I play somewhere they dont allow a jump cue what do I care?

Second question .... at the ITP, They say no side rail breaks? So does your bridge hand have to be on the table and not on ANY rail or just not on the long side rail? Again - why does this matter?

Seriously curious?

Phenolic material is much harder then leather, which there fore puts more force behind the cueball when struck. Breaking ends up being harder (but sometimes less accurate since the tip doesnt hold chalk as well) and it is much easier to hop over a ball when jumping with one. The IPT doesnt want people use them because they claim to be attempting to stick to a more traditional ruling in Pool, barring jump cues and non leather tips.

Along the lines of breaking in the IPT. You can bridge from the head rail if you want, just not from the siderails and not outside the D box.

 

[GADawg]

Second question .... at the ITP, They say no side rail breaks? So does your bridge hand have to be on the table and not on ANY rail or just not on the long side rail? Again - why does this matter?

Seriously curious?

In IPT rules you must break inside the first diamond on each side of the head rail. Is much more difficult to make balls on the break, and in particular the eight ball, than from the side rail.

 

[9BallBust-O]

ok .. thanks for the explination.

 

[yaffabernstein]

I like leather and my morri, it plays nice.

 

[ndakotan]

personal preference?

First question :I have never used a phenolic tip and I dont even know what the advantage is of one... so first off what difference do they offer for jump/break?

Who cares if someone uses them or not?

Example - I jump better with a full cue so if I play somewhere they dont allow a jump cue what do I care?

Second question .... at the ITP, They say no side rail breaks? So does your bridge hand have to be on the table and not on ANY rail or just not on the long side rail? Again - why does this matter?

Seriously curious?

I always broke with an old-style strickland cuetec, nothing hit better for breaks. Now I use a J&J jump/break cue that you can buy for $40-$70 online. It has a phenolic tip, and it breaks so much better than anything else out there (again, personal opinion). My teammate and I bought one, then he had so many people ask where to get them that he bought 10 or so online and sold them right away.

One guy can jump over a ball that is an inch or so away (masse stroke), so I don't agree that the chalk is a problem. I am not an accurate ball striker, and I have never mis-cued. I don't know why anyone would be using anything else, but then again it is personal preference. And yes, I have used all of the expensive break cues (except a predator BK), and they don't hold a candle to my cuetec, much less to these new J&J sticks.

 

[Icon of Sin]

I always broke with an old-style strickland cuetec, nothing hit better for breaks. Now I use a J&J jump/break cue that you can buy for $40-$70 online. It has a phenolic tip, and it breaks so much better than anything else out there (again, personal opinion). My teammate and I bought one, then he had so many people ask where to get them that he bought 10 or so online and sold them right away.

One guy can jump over a ball that is an inch or so away (masse stroke), so I don't agree that the chalk is a problem. I am not an accurate ball striker, and I have never mis-cued. I don't know why anyone would be using anything else, but then again it is personal preference. And yes, I have used all of the expensive break cues (except a predator BK), and they don't hold a candle to my cuetec, much less to these new J&J sticks.

I was an avid fan of J and J and had one myself (the one with the all black 1 piece phenolic tip). However, in about 3 months I cracked and broke the tip. The top center of it caved in. This was from standard use, just breaking and jumping. No misuse what so ever.

So the next week I upgraded to an X Breaker at Valley Forge.

Along the lines of J and J, i consider it a great cue to give you a stronger break and a nice inexpesive cue to start experimenting with phenolic tips with. But if you are going to start going for that really hard slam break then I would look into other options that seem to have stronger phenolic tips or other types of non leather tips. Jump Breaks such as the Fury version and the Sledgehammer are nice too. I also like the Jerico Stinger and Thumper models. But I like the X breaker the most. JMO.

Along the lines of the expensive models not holding a candle to your cuetec or your J and J, you may want to try them all out again, because you could be replacing that J and J soon and well... the other cue is a cuetech...