Where to buy carbide bushings

Madison Bob

RSB-Refugee said:
Bob,
Could you please explain, how you hand face the shaft to the butt.

Tracy
YOU CAN DO THIS ON A POOL TABLE BUT WE DO IT ON THE LATHE. lets say you have the cue butt in the lathe and the butt is rolling perfect and the pin is running zero. now screw the shaft on the butt grab the chuck and rotate it by hand watch out at the tip end of the shaft and see if it is jumping up and down as your rotating it and if it does not roll true as the pin does then you know the face is off .to fix this problem rotate it till the shaft is facing down to its lowest point goe to the joint and take a marker and mark a spot on the shaft joint now un screw the shaft a little just enoungh to get a piece of sand paper in between the joint and take the paper facing toward the shaft side of the joint and pull it thru the joint lightly inline with the mark you made now remove the paper and blow out the small amount of dust and screw the cue back together 4 are 5 times to seat everything keep repeating this untill the face is perfect and the shaft is rolling striaght out on the tip end it should only take a small amount of hand facing to fix the face problem if it takes a great deal of hand facing then more than likely the problem is not in the face but in the shaft not being taped striaght are the threads being to loose causeing it to be pulled to one side when tightened. once you feel you have got a good face keep screwing and unscrewing the shaft several times to seat everything and recheck now remove the cue from the lathe and hold the cue up to the light to make sure you don,t see any light in between the joint if you do than you just fixed a problem that was not the face but one of the other problems i mentioned. you guys that disagree should do the test,s i recomended in order to see for yourself i think that once you do you will see i,am correct about this. please do the test,s for sake of argument. MADISON BOB
 
Why not just make a dummy pin (with a threaded portion and a straight unthreaded portion,) chuck up on the shaft (with steady rest) and check the run out of the dummy pin in the shaft. It the dummy pin is running true, then face away.

Just something off the top of my head.


Jon
 
Madison Bob

Has anyone tryed the methods i mentioned? if so please report your findings on the post. i would like to tell chris i,am sorry for bringing this up on his thread i realize this is not what his thread was about and i did not mean to disrespect him in anyway and i hope he does,nt feel i have and if so i,am sorry chris!! MADISON BOB
 
madison bob

BiG_JoN said:
Why not just make a dummy pin (with a threaded portion and a straight unthreaded portion,) chuck up on the shaft (with steady rest) and check the run out of the dummy pin in the shaft. It the dummy pin is running true, then face away.

Just something off the top of my head.


Jon

Will i see what your saying but it will not give the results you need. heres a easier way just chuck up your shafts in the lathe are but them in a steady rest with a bearing are use a collet chuck and make sure the joint and shaft are running perfecly true useing a indaicater. Now take your carbide and screw it in the shaft again use a indaicater and check the run out on your carbide i bet 2 out of 5 make the carbide roll off. MADISON BOB
 
No problem bob. As for facing the shaft. I am spinning the shaft or butt between centers before the hole is drilled or tapped. I face the shaft right up to the center running in the chuck. Where the center is running will be cut away by the center drill when preparing to drill and tap the shaft. I was taught the only way to create a true surface on a shaft or butt (or any part) is to have it running between centers. (and the centers have to be aligned) I have a mandrel or a dummy on when finishing so no overspray gets on the face(s).
I do all of my sanding between centers also. The mandrels have 60deg. centers on both sides.
Also you are refering to the wood grain when facing. I do all of my cues with a wood to wood joint, and I put phenolic collars on every cue. The phenolic cut's well and has always given a nice face.
I take no offence to your replies on this thread. I welcome any and all methods on cue building. If I had not recieved any help from other cuebuilders I would still be making pretty firewood. Chris.
 
Madison Bob

Chris Byrne said:
No problem bob. As for facing the shaft. I am spinning the shaft or butt between centers before the hole is drilled or tapped. I face the shaft right up to the center running in the chuck. Where the center is running will be cut away by the center drill when preparing to drill and tap the shaft. I was taught the only way to create a true surface on a shaft or butt (or any part) is to have it running between centers. (and the centers have to be aligned) I have a mandrel or a dummy on when finishing so no overspray gets on the face(s).
I do all of my sanding between centers also. The mandrels have 60deg. centers on both sides.
Also you are refering to the wood grain when facing. I do all of my cues with a wood to wood joint, and I put phenolic collars on every cue. The phenolic cut's well and has always given a nice face.
I take no offence to your replies on this thread. I welcome any and all methods on cue building. If I had not recieved any help from other cuebuilders I would still be making pretty firewood. Chris.

Chris i,am so glad you are not affened in any way!! chris if you would please try the things i have mentioned to at least test my thought about this if nothing else you may find a better way some where by trying it. i have tested these methods and i don,t want to keep repeating myself but my results are the same trying many different ways of facing and please believe me when i say everyway that it can be done try the reply post to big jon its the fastest way to check the theory and as i said make sure your shafts are perfectly striaght and taped striaght and faced the best you can face them. i,am not trying to push this on anyone but would like to see what a couple of other builders might come up with just for the heck of it . it might open some eyes on faceing all are cues. MADISON BOB
 
bob griffin said:
Has anyone tryed the methods i mentioned? if so please report your findings on the post. i would like to tell chris i,am sorry for bringing this up on his thread i realize this is not what his thread was about and i did not mean to disrespect him in anyway and i hope he does,nt feel i have and if so i,am sorry chris!! MADISON BOB

Bob. I believe we are speaking of the same method (my previous post) except that I use a sharp blade to scrape off (rather than sandpaper) but very light strokes... The carbide or metal set I mainly use for getting the shaft and joint to size... the final facing is determined when the shaft and butt are put together.
 
bob griffin said:
Chris i,am so glad you are not affened in any way!! chris if you would please try the things i have mentioned to at least test my thought about this if nothing else you may find a better way some where by trying it. i have tested these methods and i don,t want to keep repeating myself but my results are the same trying many different ways of facing and please believe me when i say everyway that it can be done try the reply post to big jon its the fastest way to check the theory and as i said make sure your shafts are perfectly striaght and taped striaght and faced the best you can face them. i,am not trying to push this on anyone but would like to see what a couple of other builders might come up with just for the heck of it . it might open some eyes on faceing all are cues. MADISON BOB
I am open to trying anything. I just havent had any problems with getting the shaft's on my cues to run true with the centerline of the cue. When I used to chuck up on the base of the shaft with the ferrule end going thru the headstock of the lathe with a second chuck holding it centered and I would face it and many would be slightly off. when I would zero a pin and turn a fresh face on the lathe blank and screw on the shaft and spin it the end of the shaft would not spin true to the axis. Ever since I started facing the shafts when they are spinning between centers I havent had a problem with them being off. It sounds like your method works for you, It might be taking you more time than you need to spend though. Another thought I have is if you are lightly sanding the face of the shaft on the high spot you are most likely ending up with a wavy surface on the joint face. The shaft may turn true when you are done but in my opinion the joint face is not the best it could be. I know I am overanalyzing this way too much. Just what comes to my mind when you refered to sanding the face.
 
Chris Byrne said:
I am open to trying anything. I just havent had any problems with getting the shaft's on my cues to run true with the centerline of the cue. When I used to chuck up on the base of the shaft with the ferrule end going thru the headstock of the lathe with a second chuck holding it centered and I would face it and many would be slightly off. when I would zero a pin and turn a fresh face on the lathe blank and screw on the shaft and spin it the end of the shaft would not spin true to the axis. Ever since I started facing the shafts when they are spinning between centers I havent had a problem with them being off. It sounds like your method works for you, It might be taking you more time than you need to spend though. Another thought I have is if you are lightly sanding the face of the shaft on the high spot you are most likely ending up with a wavy surface on the joint face. The shaft may turn true when you are done but in my opinion the joint face is not the best it could be. I know I am overanalyzing this way too much. Just what comes to my mind when you refered to sanding the face.

chris i retested my methods again today and found that the face is not the total problem the thread pitch of the pin plays a big part in other words were the pin stops inside of the shaft this can make the shaft pull to one side are the other very very slightly but by the time this gets to the end of the shaft 29 inchs out it becomes a big deal. also we found that if the shaft threads are to tight theres not enough movement in the threads around the pin to pull the shaft in to its face flat. if the shaft threads are to loose then the shaft will pull over very very slightly to one side and it will again be a bunch by the time it gets out there 29 inchs.by hand facing i see what your saying but remember after i do this i snap the face serval times in other words i tighten and loosen the shaft serval times working the 2 faces together which smashes the 2 surfaces to each other and flatens them to each other for the life of the cue . please remember the facing i do by hand is very little at all and this whole process takes 5 minute to do and i got cues out there thats for 9 to 10 years that are still perfectly striaght useing this method.please again try this for yourself because i know from alot of testing many ways that one driver can not drive every cue are shaft perfectly true but if you find i,am wrong please let me know but it can only be done by trying it the ways i mentioned. please let me know your out come and remember chris this is not about proveing myself right are wrong but to increase everyones knowledge about this so please be honest about your findings and don,t take that statement the wrong way please!! i can tell your here on the forum to help and be helped hell thats what were all here for right. chris you have been great about this your one of the few open minded people i,ve seen in a while and thank you for that. MADISON BOB
 
bob griffin said:
chris i do not match the shaft to the butt by hand i said i hand face the shaft to the butt by hand and there is a reason for that because no matter how well you face it on the machine the wood is hard and soft because your facing across the grain of the shaft are butt. Try this make one driver with a radial pin sticking out the end and face the driver to the pin tap 5 shafts and face each one after taping it so the face is dead zero to the hole you just taped, Zero your driver you made in the lathe with the pin running zero and the face of it running zero . now screw on each shaft one at a time and you will find that maybe 2 out of five will run with no woble either at the joint are out in the middle of the shaft . This is not do to how striaght you tapped the shaft,s are drilled them its because of the face not being perfecly flat because of facing across the grain. Wood does not face as true as metal because of the hardness in different areas of the grain. This also holds true on butts if you make one driver to run all butts to, And do your sanding are finishing then you,ll find that that 2 out of five will run striaght for the same reasons. We use a delrin driver on each butt we build we center the cue in the lathe after the finish cut and zero the pin now we screw on the delrin driver and true it to that butt with the tool post now all of the sanding and finishing is done only with that driver untill the cue is done that way you do away with the face and know that driver is dead inline with the pin and the cue. Then when were done we throw the delrin driver over in the bucket and reface it to the next cue were building untill it,s finished, so one driver will go thru 10 cues before its done with. this sounds like alot of work on here but it takes no time to do and your sure your cue runs perfect every time. you can not take a set of carbides and get every butt and every shaft to run true to that one driver. i know people do this but i know if they are they are running the chance on 2 out of 5 cues are being sanded to a false face. In other words after sanding 5 cues with your, are someone else carbides and your done take the driver off and center the butts in the lathe now see if the pin,s run striaght without having to push around on the cue,s in order to get them to. I would bet that my numbers are close, just try it .On shafts we do not use delrin drivers we sand them between centers, there for we do not need the drivers . I showed this to woody at woodworth custom cues and he freaked on it and did not believe it at first. But after showing him a second time he agreed and now hand faces every cue for striaghtness for the life of the cue because once the face is off it stays that way and gets worse inless it fixed right. as for any slopy shaft threads i agree with you if there that loose throw it away i was just trying to get you to understand how this could happen. chris these are my things i have found on my own and i know all people won,t agree. But i have proved it to my self try what i have told you and you will see what i mean. Please don,t be affended in any way as i said this is no attack on you are your ways just something i thought i would tell you about and have you try it and see if this holds true for you to. :) MADISON BOB

PS. MAKE your drivers out of wood are delrin to give the test the same chances you would have if it was a true cue. but even with metal it would still be low numbers. Have you ever build 2 shafts for a cue and find one rolls off a little more than the other when you roll the hole cue together on the table? Even thou everything when the cue is apart rolls perfect. this is why the shafts both need to be hand faced to the butt because of the faces not being perfect because your facing across the grain .Also why you have these shafts screwed to the drivers take the center in the tailstock and pull it away from the shaft and watch the end of the shaft with no center attached to it see how true it really rolls. it should roll with no woble on the tip end if it don,t then you will see what i mean about drivers and faces. PLEASE LET US KNOW HOW THE TEST,S COMES OUT!!!!
To be honest with you I think the reason you have the facing problem could possibly be something more than the soft and hard grain. I was having very similar problems and I think what casued it with me was the vibration in the shaft when facing. The vibration could be caused by the soft and hard grain. I was chucking up on the ferrule end of the shaft with the large end barely sticking out of a steady rest, so I can face it off. I was having the same facing problems doing it this way until I added a second steady rest that is securing the shaft about 4 to 6 inches to the left of the other one. This makes the shaft really stiff and seems to have solved my problem. I am covered up with machinery and won't be taking the time to do any experiments for a while so I look forward to hearing what people find when they try your experiment. If they have one of my lathes they can also try my method. If they have metal lathes or other cue lathes they won't be able to unless they have heavily modified them as you have. If you still have the set up you added to the back of the Porper machine try the two steady rest method and see what you think if you have the time. The critical part is that both steady rests must be perfectly aligned to each other and to the headstock. The critical part to getting a good shaft face is eliminate all vibration. With it only secured in two places it is near impossible.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
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Madison Bob

I have had 3 of my customers email me saying keep hand facing, since i made these post they all mentioned the same thing saying when they get done playing they have to ask a buddy to help them get there cue apart because the face is locked together so tight, even tighter than they tightened it while they were playing. alot of builders cues have the reverse problem and the joints loosen up setting the cue up for self destruction if someone breaks while its loose. MADISON BOB CUSTOM CUES
 
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