Anyone have a tap for a joe gold cue
- Thread starter jecues
- Start date
I don't mind odd pins, I just use the shafts provided by the cuemaker, so don't care. And it is fun to watch someone trying to stick a expensive low deflection shaft on the cue if I sell it.
Hi Cubs
That's the other part of self expression. Cue maker says. You want to work on my cues? It's gonna cost ya chief. Lol :thumbup:
Strongly tempted now, to use a M10x2 pin, just to make the confuson complete
Just use 3/8"-10 ACME...:thumbup: Though I'm a bit surprised it's not used...
Well, it has been tried and the results were not stellar.
I have one in the shop that I pulled at the request of the owner because it
would strip-out the threads in the shaft. The ACME thrd is for moving loads.
Most all lead-screws are ACME for that reason. Works well in that application.
In cues, not so much.
I guess a portion of my memory was still asleep when I first wrote my post.
It's more awake now. The builder that used the 3/8x10 ACME was David Kikel
I'm pretty certain that he no longer uses it. The profile of the thread was
just too aggressive to be used in wood. Now there is an exception; Bill Stroud.
At one time and only briefly, Bill use a 5/16x14 ACME with the exception being that
his pin used a brass insert in the shaft. That had better results but the insert
was an exclusive. I was tasked with building a Predator shaft for one of his cues
with that pin/insert pairing and eventually had to get the insert directly from him.
I have one in the shop that I pulled at the request of the owner because it
would strip-out the threads in the shaft. The ACME thrd is for moving loads.
Most all lead-screws are ACME for that reason. Works well in that application.
In cues, not so much.
I guess a portion of my memory was still asleep when I first wrote my post.
It's more awake now. The builder that used the 3/8x10 ACME was David Kikel
I'm pretty certain that he no longer uses it. The profile of the thread was
just too aggressive to be used in wood. Now there is an exception; Bill Stroud.
At one time and only briefly, Bill use a 5/16x14 ACME with the exception being that
his pin used a brass insert in the shaft. That had better results but the insert
was an exclusive. I was tasked with building a Predator shaft for one of his cues
with that pin/insert pairing and eventually had to get the insert directly from him.
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Acme's can be tricky and usually require a long tapered tap or two taps. 1 beginning and 1 finished.
In my beginnings with DIY CNC, Kerk anti-backlash leadnuts were ridiculously expensive. So making leadnuts required some MacGyver work. The first way was to drill a hole in a block of Delrin, drill and tap a hole for a SHCS on each side, then cut the block in half, drill out relief for the SHCS threads on one side, heat a length of ACME scrap, then press the two halves against the heated screw. The two SHCSs are used to adjust for wear. The other way was to use a scrap length of ACME to make a tap. ACME taps are expensive, but maybe not as much as wavy taps! We did this with angle grinders back in the day!
They do make a tandem type ACME tap that does roughing and finishing in one pass, but they are not designed for blind holes. So the tap would only be of use if used to make a sleeve to insert into the shaft.
The other way would be to use a single edge ACME thread mill in a live threading setup...
Absolutely. I have 2 taps and a screw cut set up for the 3/8x10 acme. I have 1 long tapered tap and a screw cut for the 5/16x14 acme or I should say .323x14. This tap has a lead on it to avoid that little wiggle that would break the tap. It's brittle.
Perfect example of the 3/8x10 acme of both styles.
Mr. Gulyassy who has the correct taps and Mr. Scruggs who just had a cut acme rod.
I like this thread. Good info.
Btw. Pretty cool with heating the rod for delrin. I never thought.
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I bet it's been quite the adventure. Just dealing with a tap and die. It's about 200 for the set. I understand the inserts because the proper tap is a Tandem. Which means beginning and finished all on one tap. Then you need the die to make a screw for a mandrel.
Having more fun. Me too. Unless this cue has incredible sentimental value. I would look at changing the set up you have. Or. Get a machine shop to live thread the pieces needed to do the job. They're not inexpensive either.
It just clicked on me. Try contacting Mr. Bob Dzuricky of dzcues. You might get lucky.
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If you can find a guy with a CNC lathe it can be done a bit easier.... even easier with live tooling and something like this:
http://internaltool.com/products/mill/136/acme-thread-mills
http://internaltool.com/products/mill/147/Acme_internal_thread_mill
http://internaltool.com/products/mill/136/acme-thread-mills
http://internaltool.com/products/mill/147/Acme_internal_thread_mill
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