Aramith Red Circle

[ChrisinNC]

From someone who has maintained, cleaned and polished cue balls for 22+ years in our poolroom, I can tell you that the little half moon yellowish scars showing on your photo of that measle CB will NOT come out. Those are the result of rather extensive abuse/misuse - someone who didn't know any better, striking the cue ball repeatedly with a tip-less house cue. What you're seeing are the permanent scars on the surface of the cue ball from being struck by a ferrule.

 

[RiverCity]

It's quite clear why that cue ball with the large red dot (I can't tell if it's a pro cup measle ball as I can only see one red dot?) is significantly smaller and lighter than the red circle, It is due to the obvious age and the wear and tear on it which is easy to determine by the hundreds of miscue marks you can see on it!

Nope not miscue marks at all.

From someone who has maintained, cleaned and polished cue balls for 22+ years in our poolroom, I can tell you that the little half moon yellowish scars showing on your photo of that measle CB will NOT come out. Those are the result of rather extensive abuse/misuse - someone who didn't know any better, striking the cue ball repeatedly with a tip-less house cue. What you're seeing are the permanent scars on the surface of the cue ball from being struck by a ferrule.

Those marks are from either a phenolic tip that is as hard or harder than the cue ball, or a g10 tip that is for sure harder than the ball. Not from a tip-less house cue ferrule.

 

[Black-Balled]

Nope not miscue marks at all.

Those marks are from either a phenolic tip that is as hard or harder than the cue ball, or a g10 tip that is for sure harder than the ball. Not from a tip-less house cue ferrule.

Agreed...I say you.

 

[ChrisinNC]

Nope not miscue marks at all.




Those marks are from either a phenolic tip that is as hard or harder than the cue ball, or a g10 tip that is for sure harder than the ball. Not from a tip-less house cue ferrule.

Whatever, but either way, those scars will not come out - they are permanent. Players that use products like
that have no concern for how use of these products do damage the pool equipment, but they don't seem to care
about anyone other than themselves.

I would still consider that as abuse of the equipment.

If it was their own cue ball, they wouldn't be using those tips.

 

[KMRUNOUT]

Whatever, but either way, those scars will not come out - they are permanent. Players that use products like
that have no concern for how use of these products do damage the pool equipment, but they don't seem to care
about anyone other than themselves.

I would still consider that as abuse of the equipment.

If it was their own cue ball, they wouldn't be using those tips.

Nah. Wrong. If it was my cue ball, I'd use whatever tip I play with, and I'd play with whatever I feel works best and is legal. Phenolic tips are legal. Just so happened I like the Hammerhead tip, which is not phenolic, but rather thermoset plastic, and is not as hard, and doesn't make those marks. I currently use the BK Rush, which is a layered leather and phenolic hybrid. Pretty sure that one doesn't leave those marks either. However, if I believed that phenolic or G10 would work better for me, I would use that without hesitation whether it was my cueball or anyone else's.

The rules are the rules, and we all have to play by them. The people that make the rules are the ones that respect or don't respect the equipment. If I owned a pool hall, I could certainly forbid phenolic tips in my place, though I would be risking alienating a large number of people who own BK 2's and 3's, OB break cues, and a host of others. I'd probably just replace my cueballs if they ever got damaged and chalk it up (pun intended) as the cost of doing business. I personally don't care in the least if the cueball I'm playing with has those tiny little crescent marks on them. I don't think it has any bearing on how the ball plays.

Point is, if you don't like those marks, change the rules. Don't blame the players following those rules.

KMRUNOUT


Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums

 

[WildWing]

Thought I would try and get some actual numbers to go with my casual observations. Sorry the pics turned out so big.

Good measurements on the Red Circle, both weight and diameter. There are so many uninformed opinions on here that it's lighter and smaller, which it's not, as you demonstrated. Yours match my measurements of the Red Circle as well.

As for why your pics turned out so big, find a way to resize them to "Large Document," at least in Microsoft Windows. Also, your smartphone, if that's what you use, should give you the option to save the picture smaller.

All the best,
WW

 

[lfigueroa]

Nope not miscue marks at all.




Those marks are from either a phenolic tip that is as hard or harder than the cue ball, or a g10 tip that is for sure harder than the ball. Not from a tip-less house cue ferrule.

I take my own set of balls to the pool hall.

I also take an extra RC CB with me. If by some crazy chance I decide I want to play a rotation game, I switch CBs so that the udder guy can use his uber hard tip to break with and I can still have a nice pristine CB to play 14.1 and 1pocket with.

Lou Figueroa

 

[pt109]

Nah. Wrong. If it was my cue ball, I'd use whatever tip I play with, and I'd play with whatever I feel works best and is legal. Phenolic tips are legal. Just so happened I like the Hammerhead tip, which is not phenolic, but rather thermoset plastic, and is not as hard, and doesn't make those marks. I currently use the BK Rush, which is a layered leather and phenolic hybrid. Pretty sure that one doesn't leave those marks either. However, if I believed that phenolic or G10 would work better for me, I would use that without hesitation whether it was my cueball or anyone else's.

The rules are the rules, and we all have to play by them. The people that make the rules are the ones that respect or don't respect the equipment. If I owned a pool hall, I could certainly forbid phenolic tips in my place, though I would be risking alienating a large number of people who own BK 2's and 3's, OB break cues, and a host of others. I'd probably just replace my cueballs if they ever got damaged and chalk it up (pun intended) as the cost of doing business. I personally don't care in the least if the cueball I'm playing with has those tiny little crescent marks on them. I don't think it has any bearing on how the ball plays.

Point is, if you don't like those marks, change the rules. Don't blame the players following those rules.

KMRUNOUT


Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums

There are rules....and there are house rules.
We don’t allow white or red cue chalk in our room....pretty sure it’s legal.

 

[AuntyDan]

Thought I would try and get some actual numbers to go with my casual observations. Sorry the pics turned out so big.

I have had several of the Aramith Pro Cup "measles" cue balls. They have got a lot those "half-moon" semi-circular marks on them which I assume was from breaking too. (Mostly using very hard leather or phenolic tips) With the same break cues and tips a Red Circle ball I played with got far fewer marks and whilst there are some semi-circular marks they were much smaller and less noticeable.

Other than this I guess I'm not a sensitive enough player to really notice difference in the behavior of the various Saluc cue balls made for Aramith and Brunswick, except for the very cheap ones. If the cue ball is full size, weight and kept clean they all play the same to me. The Pro Cup is my favorite if it is new, but that is just because how they look not how they play. However they are the most expensive, mark up easily and wear out faster than the Red Circle so I am always happy with a nice clean Red Circle.

Most frustrating to me is the lack of proper information from Saluc on this. Yes, there is a list of differences that has been posted, but it is obvious that over time they have been changing either the materials, the manufacturing processes, or both. All their cue balls have had color variances in from new, and that half-moon surface damage seems to have been worse in the early generation Pro Cup balls from about 10 years ago. I'd also love to know why the Blue Circle ball used in the current Brunswick Centennial set has a surface finish that seems to actively attract chalk to it when it is ostensibly the exact same as the Aramith Logo cue ball which is not as bad for getting chalk marks on it.

 

[ChrisinNC]

There are rules....and there are house rules.
We don’t allow white or red cue chalk in our room....pretty sure it’s legal.

Yeah, common sense decency and respect, which many people just don't have these days. I try to protect and look out for our 10 pool tables in here absolutely no different than any of you guys that have mancaves with really nice home tables, and what you would or wouldn't allow your guests to do on your table.

I feel a strong sense of responsibility to maintain the condition of our tables, for the enjoyment and pleasure not only for myself as a player, but for all the other regulars that come here to play and that do appreciate the quality and condition that our poolroom is kept - specifically our tables, cloth and balls. Just because customers are paying $$ to play on our tables makes no difference to me, as far as what is and is not allowed on our tables, other than normally accepted wear and tear.

You want to use your phenolic tip on our virtually new pro cup or red circle cue balls, at least have the decency to let me know, so I can get you another cue ball out of the storage room that is not in as good a condition for you to scar up. If you want to practice jump shots, masse shots or break shots, have the courtesy to let me know and I'll direct you to a table with the cloth not in as good a condition and I may give you a break cloth to use. Is that asking too much?

 

[owll]

i've heard that difference in play between red circle and measle ball (and others) was due to a difference in hardness (measle is harder). I know earlier in the thread someone posted that they are made from the same phenolic, but my question is it the same percentage phenolic? Is the measle ball 90% phenolic, and 10% other? and red circle 85% phenolic, and 15% other (making it softer)?

(Red circles do play like they are lighter than measle cue balls. Red circles have been easy to draw and hard to follow for 30 years. I dont think the difference in play is weight, I believe the difference in hardness theory though).

 

[john coloccia]

Personally, I like whatever comes with the Aramith Tournament sets. The cue ball doesn't seem as lively as some other cue balls, but I feel like it is very controllable and it will still do everything you want it to do if you hit it in the right place and stroke it well.

 

[poolguy4u]

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Got a new red circle cue ball today and it weighs 5.6 ounces and is 2.248 in diameter.

Over the years I've bought and sold many red circle cue balls and they are not all the same.

One I had was 2.244 in diameter. This is not a myth...LOL





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[jtompilot]

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Got a new red circle cue ball today and it weighs 5.6 ounces and is 2.248 in diameter.

Over the years I've bought and sold many red circle cue balls and they are not all the same.

One I had was 2.244 in diameter. This is not a myth...LOL





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Grams is a better measurement. Tenths of an ounce just doesn’t cut it:wink:
That ball is 9 grams light