This post is intended to record my first impressions with Brian Crist's new aiming method, Poolology. I have no delusions that this will be a comprehensive review, or even a particularly useful one. I should also say that some specific questions have to be addressed by pm since you really should buy the book if you want to learn the method. In my case, these questions are just about some details that are only for my interest. The actual instructions couldn't be much easier.
Let me give you the upshot: This thing is fantastic! Brian has taken fractional aiming, which has been around a long time, and the diamond system, which has also been around a long time, and married the two together. Has this been done by anybody before? Beats me, but if so then it is a well kept secret, which then also means it probably hasn't been discovered before.
It seems like Brian's discovery of this method came over a period of years in which he made incremental discoveries that resulted in a simplified, easily usable aiming system or method. I think a real moment of inspiration for Brian was to recognize that the same method could not be used for 100% of the table, and that it had to be broken down into three sections, each with a slightly different numbering system on the rails. It would have been easy for him not to recognize this, but rather to conclude that his method only worked for say 60% or so of the table.
Why beginners should learn this method:
Well, I am a big believer in the "hit a millions balls method" which is a bit of a misnomer. I believe HAMB is not really that many balls, but that is besides the point. I believe beginners can use this system as a first determination as to the correct fraction to use. As time goes on, the player will begin to see the shots automatically. I believe this "crutch" may very well acclerate the HAMB learning process.
Why advanced players should learn this method:
Does a pro player need Poolology? Probably not, but even then just knowing the relationships presented in the book are probably good things to keep in the back of your mind. There is, however, a big difference between a pro and an advanced player. I consider myself an advanced player, a runout player, like many of us. I aim by "just seeing the shot" but I will say that if I had a weakness it would be back cuts. Most everybody has trouble with these shots. After about 5 minutes of putting balls on the table and reviewing the math, I started hitting back cuts. I hit some naturally and I hit others using Poolology. I missed a couple using just feel, and I believe I made either every shot or most every shot using Poolology. I had been using the system for 5 minutes... 5 minutes.
Many of us like to use reference shots here and there. For instance, you may have a particular place to put the cue ball in the kitchen for spot shots. You know you will have a half ball hit from there. We all know the 90 degree rule and the 30 degree rule. I play only straight pool. I recall one time thinking how it would be nice to know for sure when I have a half ball hit for side of the rack break shots. These shots are generally hit harder than others, so any little advantage is welcome. Well now I know exactly when I have half ball hits as determined mathematically rather than through experience. It's a nice crutch to have when making a pressure shot.
So if you are of the opinion that a book is worth its value if you learn one thing from it, definitely buy this book. It's $10 for an electronic copy... big deal.
As Brian says, a vast majority of the shots are made in Zone A. I don't think I'll need the system for Zone B, and I'll probably use it only for back cuts in Zone C. I haven't read about side pocket shots or banks yet, so I'll save that for an update.
You do have to be careful to know where Zone A ends and Zone C begins. I found that shots all of a sudden didn't look right, and the system didn't work. I looked at the diagram again and realized I was just outside of the zone.
I'm looking for a weakness but haven't found one yet. As long as you can see 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 fractions and are able to aim at and between these locations with a good stroke, the ball will go in on a normal table. I can't vouch for how it works on a crazy tight table, but on my 9' table with 4.75" pockets it works well.
Final fun thought: The system only uses the rails for the math. This means you don't need to look at the pocket. It is kind of fun to pocket balls without worrying where the pocket is, but I don't think that is a good habit to get into. After all, the idea is to train the brain to see the shots without needing the system, and that can only be done by focusing on the location of the pocket.
I guess that's enough for now. Hope this is useful to someone, and feel free to add any of your own comments if you have been using Poolology.
Let me give you the upshot: This thing is fantastic! Brian has taken fractional aiming, which has been around a long time, and the diamond system, which has also been around a long time, and married the two together. Has this been done by anybody before? Beats me, but if so then it is a well kept secret, which then also means it probably hasn't been discovered before.
It seems like Brian's discovery of this method came over a period of years in which he made incremental discoveries that resulted in a simplified, easily usable aiming system or method. I think a real moment of inspiration for Brian was to recognize that the same method could not be used for 100% of the table, and that it had to be broken down into three sections, each with a slightly different numbering system on the rails. It would have been easy for him not to recognize this, but rather to conclude that his method only worked for say 60% or so of the table.
Why beginners should learn this method:
Well, I am a big believer in the "hit a millions balls method" which is a bit of a misnomer. I believe HAMB is not really that many balls, but that is besides the point. I believe beginners can use this system as a first determination as to the correct fraction to use. As time goes on, the player will begin to see the shots automatically. I believe this "crutch" may very well acclerate the HAMB learning process.
Why advanced players should learn this method:
Does a pro player need Poolology? Probably not, but even then just knowing the relationships presented in the book are probably good things to keep in the back of your mind. There is, however, a big difference between a pro and an advanced player. I consider myself an advanced player, a runout player, like many of us. I aim by "just seeing the shot" but I will say that if I had a weakness it would be back cuts. Most everybody has trouble with these shots. After about 5 minutes of putting balls on the table and reviewing the math, I started hitting back cuts. I hit some naturally and I hit others using Poolology. I missed a couple using just feel, and I believe I made either every shot or most every shot using Poolology. I had been using the system for 5 minutes... 5 minutes.
Many of us like to use reference shots here and there. For instance, you may have a particular place to put the cue ball in the kitchen for spot shots. You know you will have a half ball hit from there. We all know the 90 degree rule and the 30 degree rule. I play only straight pool. I recall one time thinking how it would be nice to know for sure when I have a half ball hit for side of the rack break shots. These shots are generally hit harder than others, so any little advantage is welcome. Well now I know exactly when I have half ball hits as determined mathematically rather than through experience. It's a nice crutch to have when making a pressure shot.
So if you are of the opinion that a book is worth its value if you learn one thing from it, definitely buy this book. It's $10 for an electronic copy... big deal.
As Brian says, a vast majority of the shots are made in Zone A. I don't think I'll need the system for Zone B, and I'll probably use it only for back cuts in Zone C. I haven't read about side pocket shots or banks yet, so I'll save that for an update.
You do have to be careful to know where Zone A ends and Zone C begins. I found that shots all of a sudden didn't look right, and the system didn't work. I looked at the diagram again and realized I was just outside of the zone.
I'm looking for a weakness but haven't found one yet. As long as you can see 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 fractions and are able to aim at and between these locations with a good stroke, the ball will go in on a normal table. I can't vouch for how it works on a crazy tight table, but on my 9' table with 4.75" pockets it works well.
Final fun thought: The system only uses the rails for the math. This means you don't need to look at the pocket. It is kind of fun to pocket balls without worrying where the pocket is, but I don't think that is a good habit to get into. After all, the idea is to train the brain to see the shots without needing the system, and that can only be done by focusing on the location of the pocket.
I guess that's enough for now. Hope this is useful to someone, and feel free to add any of your own comments if you have been using Poolology.