Does anyone know how the oil prep works with metallic rings? I know that brass will tarnish under the finish if not properly cleaned and sealed. I would also like to know how the oil changes the mechanical properties of the CA.
If you have any questions or concerns, hick-ups, whatever, let me know if there's any way I can help you. You openly and willingly share an awful lot with the cue making community. Anything I can do to help you with something would be a pleasure
I also noted that there were absolutely zero signs of sanding marks anywhere under the finish. I hate it when these appear but even with aggressive sanding, the CA apparently bleeds into the existing coats quite nicely.
Very good looking!
Do you use oil over CA between coats, or only for the first coat over wood, Bob?
Thanks
Mac
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Very good looking!
Do you use oil over CA between coats, or only for the first coat over wood, Bob?
Thanks
Mac
Since this was my first attempt, I don't have a "process" yet. To answer your question, no, I did not use oil between CA coats - only on the bare wood. I've seen videos showing oil applied between coats but I haven't tried it. I might experiment with some JP's when I get some free time & I will post my results.
If anyone else is willing to experiment, this would be a good time & place to expand this discussion. Even if you have poor results, we can all learn from that.
Tried it on a shaft this morning & all went well. My only concern is the baby oil - which is clear - darkened the area more than I expected. Other than that, it was a piece of cake. I used paper towels this time & found it much easier for this small area. I also tried applying oil between a few coats but saw no advantage or disadvantage either way.
edit: Note that the black linen collars were pure black. The grayish area above the reflection on the wider ring is either a reflection or a fingerprint smear. I checked it after seeing the picture & there are no issues caused by the use of the CA.
I haven't tried baby oil or mineral oil, so I cannot comment. However, I have noticed that the linseed oil I use will saturate the surface of the cue, making it appear wet. While it works great at deepening color & amplifying figure, sometimes it's counter productive. Case in point, paduak. It'll darken to a deep red with oil. When I want it to remain bright orange I use clear shellac in lieu of oil. The CA sticks rather well to the shellac.
Good morning, great thread. I like to say "Go full BLO, never LO."
You mentioned Linseed Oil, (LO) I have never tried it. I am sure for a fact that you know the difference but many readers may not.
Boiled Linseed Oil is always a better product, it's still Linseed Oil but it's boiled to remove any and all impurities from the product.
Crisco oil and baby oil may work for some but BLO is made for wood. Many oils are a natural sealer for wood but again, BLO has the label that states it's a sealer and it's been proven for many years.
Let's keep up the great threads on the fantastic AZBilliards, Thanks again, Dave.