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What is the best pool cue joint/pin type?
- Thread starter BrokeHustler
- Start date
I always find it informative to read what shooters prefer (joints, pins, tips, ferrules, weight systems, wood, etc.) and why they prefer what they choose. As a person who is far removed from being naive, I still don't understand why some people have to turn a conversation into a competition, criticizing other people's choices and decisions. You can object to one's opinion in a friendly manner without having to insult them.
e.g. I opined why I don't use the Uniloc and another member explained why he liked his Uniloc, all done in a cordial manner without any animosity. Let's keep the information rolling on these sites as we all become better billiards players as we learn from others.
e.g. I opined why I don't use the Uniloc and another member explained why he liked his Uniloc, all done in a cordial manner without any animosity. Let's keep the information rolling on these sites as we all become better billiards players as we learn from others.
soyale
Well-known member
Now THAT is what i call a post!
Haha, thanks for the info! I like reading old posts too. Tiger is a great company, i used to play with one of their layered tips and it hit really well. if I hadn’t went back to single layer i would probably still be using them
Tadaimarlon
Well-known member
The feeling when you hit the ball, a wood-to-wood joint feels different than a steel joint.
Most of what people call 'feel' has nada to do with the joint. Shaft size/taper, ferrule material, and the tip have WAY more effect than the joint. Take a selection of cues with different joint types and cover the joints. You'd be hard pressed to tell what the joint was by feel. This test was done yrs ago on the TexasExpressTour and virtually no-one(70%) could pick the right joint after hitting the cues. One guy was a Meucci staff player and the cue he chose after hitting the test cues was steel-joint ADAM cue.
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To me wood to wood is a little softer than steel providing more feed back.
I used to play in a room in N.J. where there were a number of Gus Szamboti cues and I always found them to be way to stiff.
Personal preference there.
That may be true but the stiffness wasn't a result of the joint. SW cues are w-2-w joints and they are some of the stiffest hitting cues ever made. Joint is not the root-cause of the stiffness of a pool cue.
Yeah I know there are other factors making a cue hit stiff ,but all factors being equal a steel joint still will still hit stiffer,it's thick steel.
And I'm not a cue maker but I've played with a lot of different cues the last 60 years.
most people cannot tell the difference in type of joint let alone pin type
puhleeze !!!!!!!!!!!!!
this thread was 11 years old .....OMG
There is no best. Edited to add: The cue taper, balance and TIP are far more important.
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You can believe that all you want but the joint material does not effect how stiff/flexible a cue hits. The shaft size/taper, ferrule and tip (and even the butt taper to some degree) are what matters. Ever hit a SW? Hit one with their standard taper. One of THE stiffest hitting cues on the planet. Has a wood-to-wood joint. Pool is full of old-wives-tales i call 'poolisms' and this 'joint determines the stiffness' is one of them. Another is that Meucci's long taper flexible shaft lets you spin the ball more. Pleeeeze.Yeah I know there are other factors making a cue hit stiff ,but all factors being equal a steel joint still will still hit stiffer,it's thick steel.
And I'm not a cue maker but I've played with a lot of different cues the last 60 years.
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RefrainReyes
Active member
Well there obviously seem to be joints that are worse. When I started playing (& doing some cue research) I stayed away from unilocs due to seeing the construction, & especially the shaft inserts… (due to having to fork out a decent amount of cash.)
Some are better at connecting the butt to the shaft but that's a whole different deal than how the joint affects the stiffness/feel.
Anything but uniloc quick release
About the only thing I’ll reach out and say can make a difference in joints besides the subjective feel, is the weight differential between joint styles and some of their collar constructions, as some joints are better off with certain types of collars due to the width of collar and pin.
Good example is you don’t see 3/8x10 steel joints especially not that configuration with a compression recess in butt and nipple on shaft.
Unless one were to make the joint area oversized. Not that it hasn’t been done I could swear I have seen it lol but generally speaking that constitution is very fringe.
For what its worth the best joint I’ve played with was a compression fit wooden tennon for a pin and I’ve hit with a very old cue that was similar and had a wooden cone that compression fit similar to what layani designed just without the short threaded stud poking out. Their would be the wooden pin cues I’ve played with such as deanocs thaf he passed around here and we shipped to one another all over the US over a decade ago.
But like non ferruled shafts as Dennis Dieckmon and I agreed upon….as a maker you just can’t really trust players with them generally speaking. Players are rough on cues, do something foolish then will blame the cue maker. And often it’s their own fault. Such as letting the tip get way thin over due for maintance change out and then being a fool and sloppily stoking, miscuing and causing the tip to shear it’s shoulder, inturn shearing a bit of the wood off the end of the shaft OD.
Mid 80's I had a steel joint Schon.
I sold it and bought a Meucci.
It was much easier and with less effort to move the cue ball with the Meucci.
That's more cue/shaft taper than joint. Don't you think?
A lot of predators with unilocs have lasted for years and years and won a lot of championships.
100%. It's all taper/construction IMO. My SW is stiffer than my Schon.