Wood Shaft v CF

[Maniac]

I've had more than a couple cues that had two really well made wood shafts and i RARELY if ever used both shafts. They were so different in their hit/feel that one was basically a 'case queen'.

I myself have three cues with "supposedly" identical spare shafts. Of the three spare shafts, not a one of them plays anything like the other one. Two of them will still be in "like new" condition when the cues are sold or handed down due to the fact that I will never use them even as a spare.

As weird as this sounds, if I ever find the need for a spare shaft for any reason (such as breakage, etc.), I always have a spare cue (butt and shaft) in my case that plays closer to how my main cue plays as opposed to how the spare shaft of my main cue does.

 

[Texas Carom Club]

It’s not as big a deal as they like to make it out as

 

[dendweller]

no. Harder hit means more forward speed relative to the offset. Spin is determined by how far you hit from center.

personally, I think that a harder hit sends some of the extra energy forward, and some to the side which causes more spin. Then again, I'm not a scientist.

 

[Sealegs50]

With golf balls, there are noticeable differences regardless, depending on compression. You aren't fooling anyone geezer. I know that you are good enough to know the difference between a Pro-V, and a Pinnacle Gold (Rock).

No, I really can’t. Most balls I play with are ProV1 because that is the ball found most often on the course. When I use a different ball, they seem the same.

 

[SeniorTom]

The main reasons I play CF shafts, in order of importance to me are:
1) the smoothness of how it glides through my bridge hand
2) there durability and resistance to damage
3) there resistance to change due to moisture.
4) there look is sharp to me
I can now get a rhino carbon fiber shaft standard with my pin threads for about $200, making it a great buy. Rhino carbon fiber shafts play very well, in fact I have never heard anybody complain about them but only praise them.

 

[garczar]

personally, I think that a harder hit sends some of the extra energy forward, and some to the side which causes more spin. Then again, I'm not a scientist.

not what happens. energy is not directed off to the side. well, it kinda is, its called 'deflection'. a harder strike does not increase spin rate. harder hit just means that the spin you do apply remains on the ball longer due to the increase in forward speed.

 

[garczar]

No, I really can’t. Most balls I play with are ProV1 because that is the ball found most often on the course. When I use a different ball, they seem the same.

You can't be serious. Tour-grade balls feel completely different. Wallyworld 15pks are good for one thing: hitting it far. Cannot spin one.

 

[Sealegs50]

You can't be serious. Tour-grade balls feel completely different. Wallyworld 15pks are good for one thing: hitting it far. Cannot spin one.

If there’s a ball that cannot be sliced, I want to try a few. My iron play is OK and usually the same with fairway woods. But me and my driver don’t get along so well. My home course has few straight fairways, so it’s not a big handicap relying on my 3-wood from the tee box.

 

[Colonel]

If there’s a ball that cannot be sliced, I want to try a few. My iron play is OK and usually the same with fairway woods. But my and my driver don’t get along so well. My home course has few straight fairways, so it’s not a big handicap relying on my 3-wood from the tee box.

Just spitballin’ here but if you hit your irons and small woods pretty well and have a great deviation with the driver that maybe the fact your generally trying to drive the ball the greatest distance with the driver that perhaps that little extra oomph you subconsciously tend to add may take you out of form? Just a thought.

 

[9Ballr]

Wood shafts are like baseball bats to me. Eventually it loses its structural integrity. Baseball players constantly changing their bats for this reason. Now their point of contact are different than ours but we make contact with a ball more often than they do on a bat.

The shafts flex and vibrate every time we make contact. I was told a long time ago to let a cue warm up if it’s cold outside. Put the cue together and let it warm up to the room’s temperature. Then again there were a lot of half truths and folklore then.

Baseball bats are more likely to loser their integrity because they're hitting a ball at 100 miles an hour going cross grain and that's the key.
In pool we're not hitting cross grain we're hitting right into the grain of the wood.
So wood shafts will last for decades without problems if you take care of them. I sometimes, just for a few minutes, play with a shaft that I played with a lot through the 80's and it's perfectly fine...as wood goes.
All that being said I've converted to carbon as of a month after Predator first came out with the 12.9.

 

[Black-Balled]

dont like cf because of the surprises it gives when using english. after visiting with a well known pro he explained in detail the didderence between cf and wood. what makes the most sense is the consistency of wood throughout versus no consistency from the outside of cf to the middle of cf. a more consistent hit with wood versus surpise results with cf.

You need to not believe that guy! If either is consistent, it is the carbon one, coz the makers actually build them from scratch to their specifications.

Wood is subject to weather, storage and working conditions of each mofo that touched it....who knows what it experienced before it got to the end user?

 

[garczar]

If there’s a ball that cannot be sliced, I want to try a few. My iron play is OK and usually the same with fairway woods. But my and my driver don’t get along so well. My home course has few straight fairways, so it’s not a big handicap relying on my 3-wood from the tee box.

Cheapass balls are no good for wedge shots and shots around the green. Fine if you have no clue how to hit them but if you can spin your short shots then cheap hard balls are no good.

 

[Sealegs50]

Just spitballin’ here but if you hit your irons and small woods pretty well and have a great deviation with the driver that maybe the fact your generally trying to drive the ball the greatest distance with the driver that perhaps that little extra oomph you subconsciously tend to add may take you out of form? Just a thought.

I’m sure you’re correct. Over the past few years, I am having to adjust my game because I am losing a lot of yardage. Basically, I am frustrated because I can’t hit my driver more than a few yards farther than my 3-wood like I used to be able to do. I’ve probably lost 50 yards off my drive. I’ve lost at least a club length on each of my irons, maybe two. So, I am sure you’re correct that l am over hitting trying to get back some of that distance I’ve lost. When I’m not playing golf with my wife, I play with a group of retired doctors and dentists. While I’ve lost a lot of distance, I still out hit all of those guys. At 71, I am the kid in the group.

 

[Sealegs50]

Cheapass balls are no good for wedge shots and shots around the green. Fine if you have no clue how to hit them but if you can spin your short shots then cheap hard balls are no good.

I could definitely use a few lessons. But I’ve never been able to put more back spin on a ball than it takes to get the ball to check up a bit coming out of the bunkers. From grassy areas around the greens, I pretty much play bump and run. It’s how I was taught as a kid.

 

[maha]

as you get older you lose strength so distance and speed of whatever you are playing suffers. same with your score.

most golfers should try to drive 10 yards or so shorter until every shot is in the fairway. when you are losing the fairway you are always swinging too hard along with other problems likely.

when i hustled golf i carried most times about 7 clubs and whatever kind of balls with smiles or whatever. i still shot to my full game anyway.
against mid 80,s shooters if they would go for it i would just play with say a 6 iron or a 6 and a putter.
wasn't good enough for the just a putter hustle though.

 

[kollegedave]

So, I was at the pool hall minding my own beeswax when a player starts telling me a story about spending a half hour talking to a *very* famous player (don't ask, you would definitely know of him).

The take away from this conversation was two-fold: first, that wood moved/changed enough in different environments to noticeably effect play and second; not all CF shafts, even from the same manufacturer, played the same so players need to try them out and choose the shaft they like.

Personally, I take no issue with the second point. But I really have to wonder about a wood shaft changing enough from say, a bone dry Las Vegas environment, to a New Orleans cookin' a big pot of crawfish in the back environment.

What says you?

Lou Figueroa

I agree with you. However, my experience with wood shafts has been that their diameter does change over time, such that if you played with one shaft for years and not your second shaft, your playing shaft is skinny. Personally, I don't love that aspect of wood shafts.

When I played with wood shafts, I never thought the way they played differed form one location to another. However, I am sure I don't play as well as the unnamed famous pool player. I am open to the possibility that a player more skilled than me, might notice things I don't.

kollegedave

 

[j2pac]

I’m sure you’re correct. Over the past few years, I am having to adjust my game because I am losing a lot of yardage. Basically, I am frustrated because I can’t hit my driver more than a few yards farther than my 3-wood like I used to be able to do. I’ve probably lost 50 yards off my drive. I’ve lost at least a club length on each of my irons, maybe two. So, I am sure you’re correct that l am over hitting trying to get back some of that distance I’ve lost. When I’m not playing golf with my wife, I play with a group of retired doctors and dentists. While I’ve lost a lot of distance, I still out hit all of those guys. At 71, I am the kid in the group.

It might be time for a shaft fitting/refitting. At certain times in our lives, having the wrong shaft in a golf club, can cause both distance, and accuracy loss. You also might need to adjust your club length/s, and find the correct loft gaps in your set.

 

[crazysnake]

So, I was at the pool hall minding my own beeswax when a player starts telling me a story about spending a half hour talking to a *very* famous player (don't ask, you would definitely know of him).

The take away from this conversation was two-fold: first, that wood moved/changed enough in different environments to noticeably effect play and second; not all CF shafts, even from the same manufacturer, played the same so players need to try them out and choose the shaft they like.

Personally, I take no issue with the second point. But I really have to wonder about a wood shaft changing enough from say, a bone dry Las Vegas environment, to a New Orleans cookin' a big pot of crawfish in the back environment.

What says you?

Lou Figueroa

Nonsense

Sent from my moto g stylus 5G (2022) using Tapatalk

 

[dendweller]

not what happens. energy is not directed off to the side. well, it kinda is, its called 'deflection'. a harder strike does not increase spin rate. harder hit just means that the spin you do apply remains on the ball longer due to the increase in forward speed.

I'd like to see a hi def slow motion test that proves that, along with harder hits not increasing deflection. I fully understand the argument, just would like to see the proof.

 

[HemiRR]

Wood shafts are like baseball bats to me. Eventually it loses its structural integrity. Baseball players constantly changing their bats for this reason. Now their point of contact are different than ours but we make contact with a ball more often than they do on a bat.

The shafts flex and vibrate every time we make contact. I was told a long time ago to let a cue warm up if it’s cold outside. Put the cue together and let it warm up to the room’s temperature. Then again there were a lot of half truths and folklore then.

I've been playing snooker with the same cue for over 35 years. I play a power game and the cue still hits a good as it did when got it. Ash shaft, 9.65 mm tip.