Good wood to splice with maple burl?

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Proper_English

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi,

I have a great piece of maple burl that I'd like to have a few cues made from...I was thinking I'd like one to be a full splice...regarding playability, what would be the best wood to splice it with, and would you put the maple toward the front or back end?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated, thank you.
-Aaron
 
Proper_English said:
Hi,

I have a great piece of maple burl that I'd like to have a few cues made from...I was thinking I'd like one to be a full splice...regarding playability, what would be the best wood to splice it with, and would you put the maple toward the front or back end?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated, thank you.
-Aaron
Click to expand...

The first thing you would have to do is core it. Coring a piece long enough to make a full spliced cue may be a problem. Maple burl is very light so you would need a heavier wood to offset this.
 
Mase said:
The first thing you would have to do is core it. Coring a piece long enough to make a full spliced cue may be a problem. Maple burl is very light so you would need a heavier wood to offset this.
Click to expand...

Shows what I know:embarrassed2:

...I could see how that complicates things...I wonder how many people would be willing to do that?

It's also redheart (maple burl)...lots of great figure...hoping there can be a way, it would be a shame to use it for inlays or smaller sections.

There's obviously a lot I don't know, thanks for your input...any other thoughs are welcome and appreciated.:smile:

-Aaron
 
Redheart and Maple burl are two different things although Maple burl can have a reddish hue to it. The burl has no grain structure like the tree does and needs cored as stated already. As I remember Redheart is out of Mexico or Central America.

Bob Danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
 
bdcues said:
Redheart and Maple burl are two different things although Maple burl can have a reddish hue to it. The burl has no grain structure like the tree does and needs cored as stated already. As I remember Redheart is out of Mexico or Central America.

Bob Danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com
Click to expand...

It's not redheart, what I meant was it's red in color (I've seen maple with red tones described as "redheart maple" before, sorry for the confusion)...it's very red, compared to the light golden variety of maple burl...I'd have to borrow a camera to post pics, I'm sure it's maple burl though.

-A
 
Just coincidence or do great minds think alike?


spaltedmapleburl.jpg


will eventually become...

witycue2.jpg


My problem though is deciding on wether or not to have it stabalized and if so how to go about it. As it'll be four splices around 15mm*10mm*14" or so i dont think it'll need a vacume but what sort of resin/hardner to use is puzzling me.
I've not asked any english cuemakers as yet simply because i've never known one to use a spalted wood.
 
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That is quite a beautifull vision you have there...hopefully someone here can help you in the way of advising a stabalizer soon 'cause I'd like to see that one finnished!

Best regards,
-Aaron
 
10 past 12 and the courier still hasnt showed God I hate waiting especially as it was due here yesterday.

Fingers cross it'll be a looker all right. I know it' plays well the only difference will be the balance point will be a touch more forward.

Sent it to Dave Brown at caftsmancues.com in leeds to do, he's worked with spalted woods before and says he's used runny superglue to stabalise it.

I tuned 52 last wednesday and in all honestly i cant think of a time when i've been looking forward to a pressy so much. lol and this one i've paid for.
 
If the burl is pretty stable, you could have it spliced, and core it afterwards. I'd put it at the back, to give it the best chance of holding together before it's cored. Have the splicer leave it as oversized as practical. Cocobolo would look really sweet next to that.
 
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