8 point butt sleeve

J

josie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am looking for some advice or a tool that would help me make 8 point butt sleeves. I can do this on the forearm just fine but cannot figure a way to match the points (4 hi/4 low) on a butt sleeve. The taper bars I have do not adjust enough to get a wide point on the butt. I can use an offset center in the tail stock to get four points but am trying to figure a way to use the index to be able to cut one set of points, take it out glue them up, and then mount the butt sleeve back in the lathe to cut the other points. Just looking for some tips or techniques others use. I might be overlooking a simple way to do this but have been racking my brain and have not come up with any decent ideas and could not find any info by searching the threads.

I currently have a porper model B and a hightower deluxe.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
josie said:
I am looking for some advice or a tool that would help me make 8 point butt sleeves. I can do this on the forearm just fine but cannot figure a way to match the points (4 hi/4 low) on a butt sleeve. The taper bars I have do not adjust enough to get a wide point on the butt. I can use an offset center in the tail stock to get four points but am trying to figure a way to use the index to be able to cut one set of points, take it out glue them up, and then mount the butt sleeve back in the lathe to cut the other points. Just looking for some tips or techniques others use. I might be overlooking a simple way to do this but have been racking my brain and have not come up with any decent ideas and could not find any info by searching the threads.

I currently have a porper model B and a hightower deluxe.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

In one of Chris's videos for the deluxe, Chris clamps on a small piece of aluminum to the bottom of his taper bar. This short piece was adjusted at quite an angle to get a decent taper. Remember you don't need alot of travel. This is what I would do if that is all I had to work with. Of course now I adjust it in a program.

good luck, Jim.
 
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You are wanting to do something like this? This is a butt sleeve of a cue i am currently working on.
 

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I have been using my porper to cut the v grooves on my forearms, it just don't adjust steep enough to get a wide point groove in the butt sleeve.
 
Off sets

You can offset the tailstock on your deluxe to adjust your cuts. This is how i do it for butt sleves.

Chad
 
Carter said:
You can offset the tailstock on your deluxe to adjust your cuts. This is how i do it for butt sleves.

Chad
Click to expand...

How do you mount your butt sleeve in the chuck and still be able to use the indexing while having the butt offset? If I am thinking right the butt sleeve won't be indexed correct when you rotate it because of the offset. The sleeve will just rotate away from the center when you try to do your second point.

Sorry if this sounds confusing, I am having trouble describing what I mean.
 
josie said:
I have been using my porper to cut the v grooves on my forearms, it just don't adjust steep enough to get a wide point groove in the butt sleeve.
Click to expand...


This is the number one question I get about the Model B. There are safety features built in that can be modified.

First, I added a second tapped hole to exacerbate the angle for shorter, fatter points.
front bracket mod 2.JPG
Next, I ground this back adjustment down so the taper will pivot more.
back adj mod 2.JPG
I then cut out the router housing so I can accomodate the deeper cut.
housing mod 2.JPG
Last, I bought a bigger v-groove cutter.
router bits.JPG
 
Tailstock

josie said:
How do you mount your butt sleeve in the chuck and still be able to use the indexing while having the butt offset? If I am thinking right the butt sleeve won't be indexed correct when you rotate it because of the offset. The sleeve will just rotate away from the center when you try to do your second point.

Sorry if this sounds confusing, I am having trouble describing what I mean.
Click to expand...

It is confusing. I use a spur driver and longer butt sleve piece (about 6"). This way it puts me further out on the working material. Indexing is not a problem with the longer piece of working wood. The hardest part is cutting the 2nd set of four points after cutting down the 1st set. I never remove the driver from the piece I am working with, nor move the headstock on this lathe until I have completed all the points. Hope this helps. I am not the best at describing....

Chad
 
Thanks for the info guys. Ryan(RAT), I actually have done the modifications you show(except grinding down the bracket on the tailstock side of the taper bar mount). I drilled a hole on the headstock side of the taper bar mount, but I drilled it on the opposite side of the existing hole than you show. I was thinking that would work with the existing taper of the taper bar. This tells me I was trying to cut the points in the opposite direction of you. Maybe this is where I am screwing up.

Thanks again for the info, any additional info is appreciated.
 
josie said:
This tells me I was trying to cut the points in the opposite direction of you. Maybe this is where I am screwing up.

Thanks again for the info, any additional info is appreciated.
Click to expand...

Cut towards the spindle. Did you get the DVD with the lathe?
 
No I did not get the dvd with the lathe. I got a VHS but I don't remember anything about cutting points in it - just basic stuff. Do you cut towards the headstock on all your points? By that I mean do your points get wider as they get closer to the three jaw chuck. I have been doing it the opposite way, I mount the small end of the forearm in the chuck and cut the points toward the tailstock.
 
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