banks better?

Jason Robichaud

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I find the Diamond tables come short. I usually can get banks close without any system, but Diamonds get me on cross side by a half diamond! I haven't played the newer Brunswick, like at the worlds. Do they bank normal or is it just me? I'm sure there are a few hundred threads... just asking.
 
I think it is the K-55 rails on the diamond smarts they seem to rebound faster making the angle shorter. Especially if your using 860 or 760. Centinenial cloth on a diamond table makes banking very difficult. The cloth slides instead of gripping. The Gold Crowns use SuperSpeed K-55 profile supposed to be more consistant using vulcanized cotton cloth to rubber to get more consistant ball penetration. Dont know alot about the process or what causes it. i know that when banking on Diamonds i bank for about 2 inches long on opposite rail to hit the shot.
 
I hate the way the diamonds bank. They dont bank right and the rails play way too fast. but god forbid anyone say anything bad about Diamond tables.

Personally I wish diamonds and brunswicks would use the same rails so players could get some kind of uniformity. I dont care which rails
just pick one and make it industry wide.
 
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I hate the way the diamonds bank. They dont bank right and the rails play way too fast. but god forbid anyone say anything bad about Diamond tables.

Personally I wish diamonds and brunswicks would use the same rails so players could get some kind of uniformity. I dont care which rails
just pick one and make it industry wide.

they can't even pick a pocket size and shape, good luck with any rail request.
 
Just like golf, those are the things that make this game difficult at times....SPF=randyg
 
I think it is the K-55 rails on the diamond smarts they seem to rebound faster making the angle shorter. Especially if your using 860 or 760. Centinenial cloth on a diamond table makes banking very difficult. The cloth slides instead of gripping. The Gold Crowns use SuperSpeed K-55 profile supposed to be more consistant using vulcanized cotton cloth to rubber to get more consistant ball penetration. Dont know alot about the process or what causes it. i know that when banking on Diamonds i bank for about 2 inches long on opposite rail to hit the shot.

I agree with you whole-heartedly on this statement! It is definitely table speed, friction, and the return off the rail. I think that you need to warm up to get the feel and speed down. Then you will actually like the Diamond tables. I think that playing on the 9-ft Diamond tables really helps with your game, banks and otherwise.
 
If you have a natural bank, with the bank point around the first diamond (10-20 bank), and shoot the object ball into the rail firmly so that the OB has no spin when it hits the rail....

It absolutely, positively, should come up about 4" short on a table that plays properly.

All pool tables that play correctly will play short for balls striking the rail without spin. How short depends on the bank angle of incidence.

The more "natural" roll the banked ball has prior to striking the rail, the "longer" it will play.

My guess is that the Diamond plays just fine if a firmly hit cross bank is 4" short. The art of banking, is how you deal with this. Brunswicks also play short, my homebuilt table plays short...ALL table play short for a stun bank.
 
If you have a natural bank, with the bank point around the first diamond (10-20 bank), and shoot the object ball into the rail firmly so that the OB has no spin when it hits the rail....

It absolutely, positively, should come up about 4" short on a table that plays properly.

All pool tables that play correctly will play short for balls striking the rail without spin. How short depends on the bank angle of incidence.

The more "natural" roll the banked ball has prior to striking the rail, the "longer" it will play.

My guess is that the Diamond plays just fine if a firmly hit cross bank is 4" short. The art of banking, is how you deal with this. Brunswicks also play short, my homebuilt table plays short...ALL table play short for a stun bank.

So, a bank can never be made with a stun shot cause it will always come up 4" short... doesn't sound like a good bank to try, I would cut it in the corner.
 
Not only do they bank shorter. But Diamond is the only table I have played on when you come two rails out of the corner with running english and some how scratch in the side. The CB on a GC will come one full diamond above the side on the same shot.

I am however a huge fan of diamonds because of the pro cut pockets, deep shelf and the one piece slate because it keeps the table super level.
 
So, a bank can never be made with a stun shot cause it will always come up 4" short... doesn't sound like a good bank to try, I would cut it in the corner.

Well, maybe you are not meant to be a banker.

Over on You Tube, you can search "bank pool", and some vids of the bank pool tourny at the 2005 DCC will come up.

Watch how hard the pros hit their banks.

The reason is, correcting for the error of angle out on the stun shot bank is actually easier than trying to control with roll. The sliding-spinless ball banked into the rail has a predictable angle out. The angle out of a partially rolling ball is very hard to predict.

It is counterintuitive, but that is how bank pool is.

Freddy the Beard's book is mostly about the use of speed, angle change, and spin to make banks behave better. Jack Koehler's book has an excellent section about the effects of cushion push-back, and roll effects.
 
Ofcourse Diamonds bank short. Any decent to advanced player who banks well can make the adjustment just by aiming alittle longer within 15 minutes of playing. I play on brunswicks and diamonds and I just know how much to adjust. Experience is the best medicine for this problem. So go out bank a few.
 
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