Grinding imperfections

Club Billiards said:
I already called them and they drop-ship them from somewhere else. I had the same thought. I wonder if we could save a couple bucks shipping if we bought 2? ;)
Click to expand...

Absolutely i definitely want one. But what is difference from grade b to grade a as i have found grade b for 40$ and grade a for 110$?
 
Grading is what you would assume. The question is How Flat is Flat? and How Flat do you need the block.

Perfection costs money. I'd guess you want to stay with Grade A or better.

AA - Laboratory Grade: For high precision operations in consistent temperature gauging rooms and metrology departments

A- Inspection Grade: For general use in quality control areas

B - Toolroom Grade: For shop work and production checking
 
Disclaimer: With no table mechanic experience on my part, I can't speak to the efficacy of the method or the tool. It looks to be a good idea! I like to view this portion of the forum to learn more about tables and the work that goes into them, and I rarely (if ever) give advice or information that I'm not qualified to give.

I do have some tool making and machining experience, and I think the handle idea is a good one for obvious reasons. I'd be sure to put some kind of flexible joint (like a ball and socket) on the handle at the block end to ensure the block stays flat and has even pressure on it.
 
Lapping

I'm no table mechanic, but I was taught that when you lap, you must do it in a figure 8 motion to maintain flatness.
 
Please let us know how the figure 8 patterns works out for you. I am always open to see another way.
 
Last edited:
surface lap

What I think he means by a figure 8 lap is let's say you have a 9"x12"x2 surface plate and you have a small wood workers hand block plane that had some rust and pitting on the plane surface form years of storage in the shed, you would wet the stone and slap some sand paper on it to cover the surface plate surface and work the hand plane in a figure 8 pattern to start process' in the same manner you work and hand trowel to ensure even spread of meteral
-
Rob.M
 
one of the snooker video links within one of my threads someplace demonstrated slate honing which shows a rake handle on a swivel and a lengthwise stroke
 
Figure 8

shayne87 said:
I'm no table mechanic, but I was taught that when you lap, you must do it in a figure 8 motion to maintain flatness.
Click to expand...

You are correct, the motion reduces digging a low deeper. And helps even the passes over all areas. Ideally we would use a block 48" square but that is not practical. Most high/lows are on 12-18" centers crest to crest from what I have seen. Even a 24x18 block will have trouble there. Of course, it is the best method I've seen yet! I've been doing it almost ten years, only had three or four slates outside the scope of the block. Give me a while, working on a better way.
Rob
 
OTLB said:
one of the snooker video links within one of my threads someplace demonstrated slate honing which shows a rake handle on a swivel and a lengthwise stroke
Click to expand...

Yes, John I was going to mention seeing that video. Think it was a snooker table and it looked like a push dust broom like the janitor used when I was in school many many years ago. I think it was probably a machined plate and pretty wide maybe nearly as wide as the table.
 
Bigkahuna said:
Yes, John I was going to mention seeing that video. Think it was a snooker table and it looked like a push dust broom like the janitor used when I was in school many many years ago. I think it was probably a machined plate and pretty wide maybe nearly as wide as the table.
Click to expand...

yes and a dirty job, neat though, perhaps for less time and money you can have existing slate machined locally?
 
OTLB said:
yes and a dirty job, neat though, perhaps for less time and money you can have existing slate machined locally?
Click to expand...
I toiled with this after cracking one of my slates. My wife is works for an architect/ design firm. She has lots of contacts with stone fabricators. I talked to a few and didn't get a warm and fuzzy feeling. Even if they had a Blanchard they seemed to be a little nervous therefore so was I. Some said they can give me a perfectly flat surface but will the top be parallel with the bottom of the slate? and With a T-Rail I always worried how grinding at one of these places would effect how the holes line up. I'm assuming they'd take off way more material than the method discussed here.

I'd assume the best way is how its supposed to be done at the factory. All 3 slates at the same time for a matched set. Impossible to find a stone fab shop that can grind a 5X10 slate. I like this hand method with expierenced hands. Too bad its such a mess. A second hand with a large vacuum might help in a finished basement or due it off site.

The cost at one of these fab shops is a few hundred per slate but maybe get a trapizoid.
 
Honing method tips

Use a good fine filter, or the dust will shoot out the other side! I smoked out a pool hall by using a poor vac once, woops. As far as taking off too much material by grinding or honing...You have a good 1/8" of clearance in the rails so that shouldn't be an issue. The worse slate I have honed down has been trouth to peak variance of about 0.020" though I am certain worse are out there. Taking the top 0.01" of a crest down will make a very noticeable difference in playability. Perfection is a theory, excellance is the closest you get. Always a better way. BTW, How long has Gabriel's been doing this to thier slates?

Wanna see something cool, research Granite hole saws from Egypt.


3kushn said:
I toiled with this after cracking one of my slates. My wife is works for an architect/ design firm. She has lots of contacts with stone fabricators. I talked to a few and didn't get a warm and fuzzy feeling. Even if they had a Blanchard they seemed to be a little nervous therefore so was I. Some said they can give me a perfectly flat surface but will the top be parallel with the bottom of the slate? and With a T-Rail I always worried how grinding at one of these places would effect how the holes line up. I'm assuming they'd take off way more material than the method discussed here.

I'd assume the best way is how its supposed to be done at the factory. All 3 slates at the same time for a matched set. Impossible to find a stone fab shop that can grind a 5X10 slate. I like this hand method with expierenced hands. Too bad its such a mess. A second hand with a large vacuum might help in a finished basement or due it off site.

The cost at one of these fab shops is a few hundred per slate but maybe get a trapizoid.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top