8-ball break
- Thread starter mohrt
- Start date
It depends upon numerous differing factors. There is no 1 single way to break that will work every time on every table. Every table breaks differently, and one table can even break differently from one day to the next. The one piece of advice I have is not to smash the rack as hard as you can. Control your break, control the cueball, control the game.
But there are some general differences. Exact placement may differ table to table. However I see some players always shoot the 2nd ball, with the cueball coming off the rail. Some guys will never ever play a break shot with the cueball hitting a rail, and for reason. So I just want to hear, how do you break (in general) 8-ball, and why. What strategy do you employ. Keeping control is a good idea, agreed.
I don't think it makes much sense to break on the 2nd ball if the 8ball on the break doesn't count. I think breaking down the middle with a hair of draw is a good strategy. If you do it right you can park the cue in the middle of the table.
I'll hit either the first, second, or even third ball into the rack depending upon the circumstances. In my opinion, hitting anything but the head ball is more useful as a defensive break against a stronger opponent. Both the second and third balls will tend to leave more clusters and send the cueball into the pack, but the third ball will also help to push more balls to one side of the table, setting up more safety opportunities (helpful if you're playing a run-out type player), and pretty much guarantees that you will see the table again if you don't make a ball.
Both of those balls can be hit and get similar results on any table, but breaking offensively is when table conditions really come into play, because you can leave a wide open table and cueball in perfect position for your opponent if you don't make a ball.
I break to run out when I'm either playing a weaker opponent, or know the table and how it's breaking. If I'm not confident in my break and I'm playing someone who has a good chance of running out an open table, I'm breaking defensively.
Both of those balls can be hit and get similar results on any table, but breaking offensively is when table conditions really come into play, because you can leave a wide open table and cueball in perfect position for your opponent if you don't make a ball.
I break to run out when I'm either playing a weaker opponent, or know the table and how it's breaking. If I'm not confident in my break and I'm playing someone who has a good chance of running out an open table, I'm breaking defensively.
Breaking the 2nd ball (so I read) gives the 8-ball a better chance to go. I've also heard that hitting the 2nd ball puts more power to the center of the rack. Also, rebounding off the side rail requires some spin to get proper position to center table. This spin takes power away from the break. Also hitting the rail off the break might be considered too risky, better to come straight back off the head ball.
I like the idea of hitting the head ball square, bring the cue ball straight back a couple inches. I like to hit from close to middle, closing the gap between the cueball and head ball, leaving the rail out of the way of the stroke.
Great stuff. I don't know if I've ever tried the 3rd ball on an 8-ball rack.
Banks
Banned
I spend most of my time playing barbox 8..
Until I learned the 2nd ball break, I thought head ball was the way to go. The problem was, though, is that sometimes even when I thought I had racked well, the rack wouldn't open up and would be a dud. With a 2nd ball break, it's much more difficult to have a dead break unless you simply do it wrong.
Make sure you feel comfortable with your sighting of the 2nd ball and that you will be hitting only that ball. Start out with a medium speed, nothing special at all, just going for a decent hit.. you will find that they can still spread just fine. On a diamond table, a proper 2nd ball break gets those puppies flying without much effort.
Unless my break is off and I start scratching, I'm mostly using the 2nd ball break now. I save my head ball break more for playing bar rules and such. I like crushing the rack, but I like opening a rack more consistently and without worrying about a bad rack.
Until I learned the 2nd ball break, I thought head ball was the way to go. The problem was, though, is that sometimes even when I thought I had racked well, the rack wouldn't open up and would be a dud. With a 2nd ball break, it's much more difficult to have a dead break unless you simply do it wrong.
Make sure you feel comfortable with your sighting of the 2nd ball and that you will be hitting only that ball. Start out with a medium speed, nothing special at all, just going for a decent hit.. you will find that they can still spread just fine. On a diamond table, a proper 2nd ball break gets those puppies flying without much effort.
Unless my break is off and I start scratching, I'm mostly using the 2nd ball break now. I save my head ball break more for playing bar rules and such. I like crushing the rack, but I like opening a rack more consistently and without worrying about a bad rack.
A proper break on the 2nd ball should give you close to a 10% chance of making the 8ball but the TC said the 8ball on the break isn't a win. Somebody mentioned a defensive break. That is 100% true. However I think the TC is looking for the break that makes a ball and gives him the best chance to get out. So, for this thread, I think breaking on the first ball is the best bet.
Beware of hitting the 3rd ball. Some rules specify that as a foul
So you are basically saying the odds of making a ball on the break increase with the 2nd ball, as it is not as influenced by a loose rack.
Another thing to consider is that the cue ball position isn't nearly as important in 8ball as it is in 9ball. If you are playing open break you will likely have a shot from anywhere on the table.
I guess my point is you can sacrifice some accuracy for speed and get away with it in 8ball
I guess my point is you can sacrifice some accuracy for speed and get away with it in 8ball
There are no rules specifying which balls you can or can't hit first when breaking in 8 ball.
It is against the rules in APA.....
Another thing to consider is that the cue ball position isn't nearly as important in 8ball as it is in 9ball. If you are playing open break you will likely have a shot from anywhere on the table.
I guess my point is you can sacrifice some accuracy for speed and get away with it in 8ball
True, however I'd rather start with a shot near center table, away from a rail or end of the table. This would offer the most choices to begin the run. Often times if I leave the cueball up on the end rail I'm forced into a tough starting shot, or a shot tough to get shape from, or sometimes even a safe.
mohrt:
Last night, in my usual Thursday night in-house 8-ball league (9-foot tables), I dug out and dusted-off my second-ball break. Hadn't used it in a good long while. On the GCIII that I was playing on, with fairly new cloth, I was making a ball on the break every time -- never had a dry break. I don't know why I just suddenly decided to try this, but the match was going my way, and after four BnRs just off that change in break, I closed-up the match 7-0.
I agree that a head-ball break is the best bet when you're not striving for an 8 on the break, but rather want the best chance of pocketing a ball with good cue ball control. Don't ask me why I unconsciously chose the second-ball break -- I honestly don't know. I was just going on automatic, by sense and feel. That break seemed to work unbelievably good on that table, and I just went with it for the rest of the match.
The short answer? Methinks you'll want to experiment with the break, if you can, on the equipment you're going to be playing the match on. When you find something that works, STOP EXPERIMENTING even if it doesn't make sense why it works, or seems counter-intuitive to what you're trying to do.
Hope that helps,
-Sean
Banks
Banned
Not influenced nearly as much, yes. Or at least that has been my experience. I don't think I've yet hit to a 2nd ball that leaves the center nearly intact. As much as I liked to power break and drop three or four, I'd much rather be able to open a rack and drop a single ball. Watching Dan Louie and others at the coast a year or two ago, they were killing it with the 2nd ball.. granted, on diamond tables, but it can work well on valleys, too. Like I said, done right the 2nd ball break can drop a few balls too.
Loose racks can help you make balls, if you can learn how to read the gaps in the rack accurately. This applies more to 9 ball, but gaps on either side of the 8 ball can help you make it in the side pockets. That's how you can make the 8 on the break easier breaking second ball in. It's because the rack is loose.
As far as loose racks are concerned, you should just check the rack before you break. What's important is having all surrounding balls tight on the 8 ball. Too many people only pay attention to the first 3 balls. It's how they tie onto the 8 that really makes a rack good or bad.
Never played APA, but I've heard enough about their rules to not be surprised.
Yeah, its a weird rule and I would guess that some tournaments have adopted that rule. You might want to clarify if it is legal before shooting it.