Centennial frame mod?

[zumpa21]

I was hoping to find a Gold Crown but I had to "settle" for the Centennial I found. This is an early C model with two boards spanning the short part of the frame. Read that this frame may cause problems with the slate. Any point to trying to add the longer frame supports as are on the GC frame?

And anyone care to put their 2 cents in about aluminum polishing?
I was thinking of leaving it as is. The extruded pieces appear to be painted grey.

 

[gsm1sw]

I was hoping to find a Gold Crown but I had to "settle" for the Centennial I found. This is an early C model with two boards spanning the short part of the frame. Read that this frame may cause problems with the slate. Any point to trying to add the longer frame supports as are on the GC frame?

And anyone care to put their 2 cents in about aluminum polishing?
I was thinking of leaving it as is. The extruded pieces appear to be painted grey.

I have a couple of Centennials. The grey is not paint but anodizing. If you like it that way then leave it alone. I like the polished look so I cleaned them up with e-z off oven cleaner and then polished. It took awhile but looks good.

As far as the slate supports go, I cannot see a reason why only having the two cross members would be a problem (both of mine are like that).

some pictures here:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=246078

 

[chevybob20]

The aluminum is a lot of work. It has some kind of aviation clear coat on top of the paint (not sure it was actually paint). Strip the clear coat using TAL Strip II. Make sure you wear oven gloves. I think it's made from canned alien blood from the Weyland-Yutani Corporation:smile:. It started dissolving the lawn and garden bag that I sprayed some parts on. It dissolves latex gloves in seconds.

An angle grinder with a soft wire wheel followed by a hard woven wheel and buffing compound should do the rest. I found it next to impossible to get an even shine down the length of the skirts, so I used sand paper and ran it in straight lines creating a brushed look. Then, I whet over the aluminum with the buffing wheel. I made the corners as shiny as I could by using a woven buffing wheel on my bench grinder.

 

[zumpa21]

I found your Centennials in older posts. Mine definitely has some kind of paint on the extruded pieces. From what I can find out, it's a very early Centennial. It doesn't have a metal Brunswick nameplate on it. The Brunswick name is "branded" into the rail.

I'll post some pics when I get a chance.

 

[jackiestax]

I have a couple of Centennials. The grey is not paint but anodizing. If you like it that way then leave it alone. I like the polished look so I cleaned them up with e-z off oven cleaner and then polished. It took awhile but looks good.

As far as the slate supports go, I cannot see a reason why only having the two cross members would be a problem (both of mine are like that).

some pictures here:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=246078

very nice, thanks for the look see.

 

[chevybob20]

That pic is of my Centennial just after Mark Gregory and I set it up. He cut off the old sub rails and installed new. He also took the bow and twist out of the rails. New Artemis cushions were installed with 4 1/8" pockets. These dimensions are exactly like the TAR table. Simonis HR with French cuffed pockets to off the job.

GSM has a very nice table with pictures in that thread. His has a ball return. I wondered how that worked, now I know. Great job. I love old things and Art Deco.

 

[1pocketpro]

Great looking table! Could you tell me a little more about your "French cuffed pockets" Are they nailed in? Do they mark your balls? Where can you buy them?

I need to replace the pockets on my table the next time I recover it. The most interesting option I've found thus far is a set of leather drop pockets sold by Ken Hash. Kind of expensive and I have no idea if the leather pockets might also mark my balls.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[chevybob20]

Great looking table! Could you tell me a little more about your "French cuffed pockets" Are they nailed in? Do they mark your balls? Where can you buy them?

I need to replace the pockets on my table the next time I recover it. The most interesting option I've found thus far is a set of leather drop pockets sold by Ken Hash. Kind of expensive and I have no idea if the leather pockets might also mark my balls.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

The "French Cuff" is somting that Mark Gregory of Perfect Pockets does to the cloth at the pockets to hide the staples and cloth slits.



The Pockets used in my table are Gold Crown pockets. They do not mark balls. My pockets are nailed in but if you have the right pockets, you can screw them in. I like these pockets because they have such a large ball capacity. Ken Hash or Mark Gregory (perfect pocketz on this forum) could answer your questions better than me.