Minimum size for a mill

Monk Slayer

Monk Slayer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Wow, been a while since I last posted on here... Long time no see.

Looking at buying a mill soon, and I can't remember the minimum distance between the chuck and the center (for shaping butts and points) and all my educational material is 8000 miles away (deployed again). Overall, what length of table would reccommend as a minimum. Obviously, larger is better, however I do have a budget to consider. Thanks.

Charles

Btw, what was I thinking when I chose that user name?? :confused: lol
 
You ask about a mill, but then mention the chuck and center. Do you mean a lathe? Yes, mills have chucks and centers, but then you also mention shaping butts and points. So, I'm a bit confused.

The answer is: It all depends what you're intending to do.

Assuming you mean a lathe, since cue butts are typically 29", I'd suggest nothing smaller than can accommodate that length, taking into account the distance lost by the spindle chuck and the tail stock. Unless you can get a good deal on an all-purpose lathe, I'd highly suggest a purpose-built pool cue lathe from Hightower, Unique, or Porper.

If you want a CNC mill for inlays and decorative rings, there are many companies to choose from, including Taig/MicroProto.
 
Monk Slayer said:
Wow, been a while since I last posted on here... Long time no see.

Looking at buying a mill soon, and I can't remember the minimum distance between the chuck and the center (for shaping butts and points) and all my educational material is 8000 miles away (deployed again). Overall, what length of table would reccommend as a minimum. Obviously, larger is better, however I do have a budget to consider. Thanks.

Charles

Btw, what was I thinking when I chose that user name?? :confused: lol
Click to expand...


It's not so much as table size as the table travel that you need to concern yourself with. You can always add a plate on top of the mill table to accommodate whatever you're milling. If you plan on just cutting in points, you would require at least 12" of travel. I would prefer more. If you need more travel then we would need additional info as to exactly what you're planning on doing.

As an example, this would work both in travel and RPM:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/2-HP-Mill-Drill/G1006

Whereas this would not:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini-Milling-Machine/G8689

Hope this helps.
 
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Joe Barringer said:
It's not so much as table size as the table travel that you need to concern yourself with. You can always add a plate on top of the mill table to accommodate whatever you're milling. If you plan on just cutting in points, you would require at least 12" of travel. I would prefer more. If you need more travel then we would need additional info as to exactly what you're planning on doing.

As an example, this would work both in travel and RPM:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/2-HP-Mill-Drill/G1006

Whereas this would not:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/2-HP-Mill-Drill/G1006

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

You of coarse are correct about travall being the determining factor but your two examples are of the same mill.

Dick
 
Thanks gentlemen,

Appreciate the answers. Mill, definitely. I'm looking at the Grizzly G0704, for multiple reasons. Mainly well documented cnc conversions, and lots of easy upgrades. I can easily add a 4 jaw chuck to the mill bed and a live center, converting to a lathe for turning points and others. I am also considering a lathe as well, not for cue building (entirely at least) the g0602. Again, well documented cnc conversion and easy upgrades. All of this will help educate my skills in prelude to purchasing one of Chris's lathes. I've done a lot of research previously, I have all of his DVD's and book. Acquiring tools take a while.

Chris, hopefully you read this, glad to see you are still working and in business. Cheers!

Thanks again.
 
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