Straight Pool Break Shot Situations Poster

topcat1953

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Developed this for a few of my friends.
If anyone is interested in one, let me know.
They are 18 x 24 on 1.5 MIL Glossy.
Will post info wanted for sale section.

14and1 table poster B.jpg
 

Dan Harriman

One of the best in 14.1
Silver Member
Developed this for a few of my friends.
If anyone is interested in one, let me know.
They are 18 x 24 on 1.5 MIL Glossy.
Will post info wanted for sale section.

View attachment 255908

I like the poster, however in diagram 5 if the white contacts the side you have illustrated (even with low spin) it will inevitably scratch. When traveling towards the rack in that manner the cue ball must contact the top two balls, if not then your taking a risk unless you go towards the back of the stack after contacting the bottom cushion as in diagram 6. If in shot five you had less angle then you might be safer to shoot the shot as displayed, but there is a thin hit in diagram 5 and this allows for the low to never really grab. The reason is cause of the thin hit and the white travels so fast towards the side of the rack it has no time for the english on the white ball to take. Note that I would not ever want shot number five as a break shot and if I did have it I would approach the shot as diagram six illustrates.
 
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topcat1953

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Well Mr Harriman, I truly appreciate the feedback as you are one of America's best at 14.1. But shot #5 does work consistently and was shown to me by Tom Kollins at Joe Farhat's Velvet Rail, in 1977. I actually used shot #6 today in the middle of a 35 ball run.


14and1 table poster A (2).jpg
 
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Dan Harriman

One of the best in 14.1
Silver Member
Well Mr Harriman, I truly appreciate the feedback as you are one of America's best at 14.1. But shot #5 does work consistently and was shown to me by Tom Kollins at Joe Farhat's Velvet Rail, in 1977. I actually used shot #6 today in the middle of a 35 ball run.


View attachment 256577

Ok, if you were to aim really thick on the object ball, with lots of outside spin, and take some speed off the hit too boot you might be able to change the angle of the 90. Remember the illustration does not correctly view the 90 degree angle that the cue ball will start off at. If in shot # 5 you were to hit the ball thin (as you almost have to do) even with low your almost sure to scratch or be flurting with it anyhow. Again the tangent line or the 90 is off a bit in your diagram, not trying to nit pick but I am a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to 14.1 re-rack. Shot number 5 is a thin hit, going into the side of the rack with a thin hit (at that angle) is like walking on ice and hearing it crack as your feet tread across. I would play shot number 5 the same as you have demonstrated in diagram six, but I don't like taking speed off of break shots either. Even at a soft speed with draw if the white contacts a bottom part of one of the racks balls it will surely move towards the dreaded scratch. I think your daigram needs to show the 90 off the side of the hit (shot #5 is a thin hit) rather than the center of the obkject ball - the 90 degree angle does not start off the center of the object ball. I have shot hundreds of thousands of break shots so I feel I am qualified to instruct anyone on how the 90 degree angle works. I have heard of Tom Collins ( not the drink) and I am sure he is or was a fine player and instructor, I would suggest that you ask a solid 14.1 player if they think #5 has any future - again if you likethis break shot then your a furrily' dangerous man. Much more safe to play at the back of the rack cause you will find topcat that if your cue ball does not contact one of those balls in the rack full then you will most certainly be in the drink with the white.
 
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topcat1953

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
All I have to say is that you have a pool table, set it up and try it a few times.
As with all of the diagrams, each really only represents the existence of the shot shown. They may not be perfect (and I know a little about perfectionism).
Believe me, I would not look to set up for it, as it is a very nonconventional play. After all, thin cutting the object ball with straight draw or extreme back-spin without curving or creating a whipping action is not easy for everyone. And that is where the danger lies. Or, if you are unlucky enough to hit between the balls vs hitting any ball solidly. But even then, the draw should help avoid the trap.
If you have never in 100,000's of different break plays tried this, then you only think it doesn't work.
Ya might like it!!
The poster is meant more as a fun thing with a few irregular shots for breaking up the rack. There isn't any misinformation.
 
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