Feeler Value Question - Miranda Cue - Ivory Loaded

Bumlak

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So with the market being what it is, I am just looking to get a trade / sell value on this cue. I believe it to be built in 2008. I purchased it in late '08 from Via here on AZ. I am looking at getting into something a little more old school....4 points, veneers, milk white delrin butt cap..you know the drill.

All the white is in fact tusk Ivory. I've looked at it under a jewelers loupe and had several makers look at it as well to verify. 4 long / 4 short ivory points in the forearm with recut veneers around the long points. They look like ebony, osage orange and oak. The outer point of the long points is a CNC cut (maple.) There are reverse points in the butt sleeve. Scalloped ivory diamonds at A,B,C,D and E, Ivory short buttcap and a sleeved ivory joint. The wrap is pig skin from what I can tell and in decent shape. It could probably use to be replaced at some point as it has mostly lost it's shine due to daily play. The actual cues finish is very good.

Now to the disclosures:

1) The ivory ferrule is a through hole ferrule. It is NOT capped but it is in good shape with a good wall thickness. I currently have a Tiger Onyx installed.

2) There is a roll out to the cue in the handle. I would have to measure it to be certain how large it is. The roll is definitely there though. It does not in any way effect play (I play with this as my daily) and the forearm itself is dead straight. If the wrap is being replaced, it would be worth it to replace the handle as well.

3) There is a finish flaw in the ringwork on the shaft. It is not cracked that I can tell...looks like a bubble between the coats of finish. I believe this to be an automotive finish.

Thanks,

Eric
 

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My thought would be for you to get the handle fixed before selling the cue. I don't have a good feel for the value of your cue, but, I do know that this will turn a lot of people away. The roll is a big deal to most. I would try to have the CM fix the issue myself.

Value is a hard thing to nail down. Who makes the cue is as important as what the cost of the cue was to build. Take into account the cue market today that is soft, more or less a buyer's market.
 
My thought would be for you to get the handle fixed before selling the cue. I don't have a good feel for the value of your cue, but, I do know that this will turn a lot of people away. The roll is a big deal to most. I would try to have the CM fix the issue myself.

Value is a hard thing to nail down. Who makes the cue is as important as what the cost of the cue was to build. Take into account the cue market today that is soft, more or less a buyer's market.

My thought is more or less the same, but I believe it is VERY important to disclose. These cues were made in the shop or by the group that now makes JD Cues from what I understand. Great playing cue, good look and feel and you just don;t see many with Ivory anymore.
 
My thought would be for you to get the handle fixed before selling the cue. I don't have a good feel for the value of your cue, but, I do know that this will turn a lot of people away. The roll is a big deal to most. I would try to have the CM fix the issue myself.

Value is a hard thing to nail down. Who makes the cue is as important as what the cost of the cue was to build. Take into account the cue market today that is soft, more or less a buyer's market.

This is a good idea, with all the ivory though, he runs a shipping risk going back and forth to the Pacific rim. As far as a value, the old ad is still up and IMHO I guess for a Phillipine made cue its an ok price, but generally those cues do not bring a ton of money.

JV
 
This is a good idea, with all the ivory though, he runs a shipping risk going back and forth to the Pacific rim. As far as a value, the old ad is still up and IMHO I guess for a Phillipine made cue its an ok price, but generally those cues do not bring a ton of money.

JV

Joe,

Thanks for the feedback. It would have to be repaired stateside. To send it back and have it repaired would probably only risk having the handle warp again I'm afraid because of the humidity change. I'm not even sure that I trust laminated handles in this case. I'm almost at the point where I would consider having the butt cap replaced with delrin just to give it a bit of an old school vibe.

I can honestly say the workmanship on the cue is very comparable with US cues. Inlay thickness is good, finish isn't bumpy or thin, nice sharp lines and good mitering on the veneers. No oddball "sharpie" fixes.

Eric
 
Quality control issues

I bought four Miranda cues
Each hit differently
All had attractive inlay work
75% of shafts were warped within 6-12 months
Pin can be out of line making it hard to fit a brand new straight shaft
Sold 1, traded 1 and gave 2 away as gifts
 
I bought four Miranda cues
Each hit differently
All had attractive inlay work
75% of shafts were warped within 6-12 months
Pin can be out of line making it hard to fit a brand new straight shaft
Sold 1, traded 1 and gave 2 away as gifts

Understood,

However, the shaft is dead straight, the pin runs as straight as you can possibly expect it to be (I hate the term "dead straight" as no shaft, butt, pin etc is ever perfect.) I fitted a new McDermott shaft up to this cue for a 2nd shaft with no lift whatsoever from tip to joint. All I had to do was throw in the lathe and trim the ring and bell down to the correct size. I didn't even need to reface it.

I was simply trying to estimate a value of a cue in trade here folks. I think I have been very forthcoming with the condition of the cue. Others previous histories with similar cues, though interesting, have no bearing on my inquiry. Clearly some bad experiences have been had with foreign built cues...hell...I'VE had some bad experiences with foreign build cues. That being said, I have a Schon sitting in a case in my closet that warped like a banana right at the joint from the forearm into the handle.

Eric
 
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