Cue conversion price?

The Renfro

Outsville.com
Silver Member
What would the going price be for a conversion of a 1piece cue to a sneaky pete...

To be exact: A dufferin house cue to a 2 piece... no joint... New ferrule and le pro... and a taper change.......

Based on rat cues pricing 75 for the joint... 30 for tip and ferrule.... 15 for taper and 20 for the house cue? you'd be $140 in... Would that be close or would you expect it to be higher or lower??
 
What would the going price be for a conversion of a 1piece cue to a sneaky pete...

To be exact: A dufferin house cue to a 2 piece... no joint... New ferrule and le pro... and a taper change.......

Based on rat cues pricing 75 for the joint... 30 for tip and ferrule.... 15 for taper and 20 for the house cue? you'd be $140 in... Would that be close or would you expect it to be higher or lower??

I paid $40 to have a house cue cut, paid the bar owner $10 for the stick. Ended up having to replace a ferrule that was mushrooming and that was $30 or something with the elkmaster or whatever he put on, but I knew the ferrule and tip were already at the end of their lives.
 
Have Mueller do it, I had them convert 1 piece ebony Dufferin with uni-lock pin and it was cheap. I then had them make another shaft with an ivory ferrule. Best prices.
 
Currently I'm having 2 Dufferins (from 1998 made in Canada) converted to 2 piece wood to wood. Also having bumperless butt caps added. Work is being done by Seyberts. It's taking time to get them back however I'm not in a hurry. Will post pics and the total fees when they are complete. Their prices are fair. Their work is real nice. The joint was quoted to be around $90.
My Duff's are 57". I think the newer ones are 58"

Renfro.....did you have a Dufferin converted? How did it turn out?
 
Last edited:
There are some incredible pieces of wood out there available for less than $10 a stick

I have bought a number of really old house / bar cues from the local Brunswick dealer for anywhere from $1.00 to $10.00. They pick them up with old tables and from various other sources. It seems that the warped ones got thrown out years ago and what is left are pretty straight cues, old wood with tight grain and a great old dark coloring similar to recovered lake wood.

I have made numerous jump cues, break cues and jump break cues out of them by installing joint pins and a one piece phenolic ferrule-tip. Not much out there stiffer than a 50 year old bar cue!

They tend to be on the light side once re-tapered but if you use a brass radial pin and mix and match butts and shafts you can get both the weight right & the length right resulting in really cool cues. (e.g. rob Peter to pay Paul and cut a longer shaft & butt for break or sneaky pete cues and shorter shaft and partial butt for jump cues)

Add a nice phenolic linen butt cap & joint collars (deco rings optional) and you have a really cool, highly functional cue with a ton of history. Again, when you start with a cue that has survived since the 1960's you end up with a pretty good hitting finished product. If you make a player, don't scrimp on the ferrule... buy a good Ivorine III or IV ferrule and use a quality tip.

With the dirt cheap cues that are warped, I cut 1-2" pieces out of the center full splice area and make matching joint protectors that show the full splice construction. Truly cool!

Same money but no comparison to Player or other imports
 
Back
Top