Ask me too

[Donny Lutz]

Don't misquote me, please

I improved the most in my game when I practiced. Sorry, but most players don't practice enough. They just want answers. The answers are found when you hit the tables and put in the work.

Just like you know people, so do I. I know people who keep going to different instructors to find answers. They are trying to find solutions that will enable them to get better with less practice. It's just not going to work. You have to put in the time and get to know yourself at the table.

Been there. Done it. It works.

As for Karen, I just spoke with her day before yesterday. I'll have to ask her about those 30 instructors.

I didn't say that one shouldn't practice, or that players practice too much. My point, which I thought I made clear, is that practice alone will get you nowhere if you don't know what and how to practice. Most novices think "practice" means just playing games or banging balls.

Yes, please ask Karen. My statement was based on what was said by an announcer at a televised event, who had spoken to Karen. I didn't make that up.

I've agreed with you many times here on AZ and paid you rather nice compliments. Yet you seem to go on the defensive when anyone disagrees with you in the slightest way.

 

[FranCrimi]

I didn't say that one shouldn't practice, or that players practice too much. My point, which I thought I made clear, is that practice alone will get you nowhere if you don't know what and how to practice. Most novices think "practice" means just playing games or banging balls.

Yes, please ask Karen. My statement was based on what was said by an announcer at a televised event, who had spoken to Karen. I didn't make that up.

I've agreed with you many times here on AZ and paid you rather nice compliments. Yet you seem to go on the defensive when anyone disagrees with you in the slightest way.

Oh come on, Donny. I'm discussing an issue, just like you are. The minute I come back with a rebuttal, you call it being defensive? Does that include all the times I let posters have the last word when they're coming at me like gangbusters?

Fuhgeddabouditt.

Now you can feel free to have the last word. See? If I were defensive, I'd keep things going on and on and on and on....

 

[67tbird]

Let me get more specific with this question if I can. I'm a 5-6 level player and just a couple of the things I struggle with are combinations and shooting over balls. I try to avoid these situations whenever possible, but sometimes they come up and you have to be able to shoot them. The shooting over balls is especially bad for me. I feel like it makes me a 80-20 underdog at least when it comes to making the shot.

Straightpool, there is a drill for shooting over balls that my friend used to do, and he's one of the best I've seen at shooting over balls now.

Simply place a ball directly behind your cue ball before every shot. I'm sure you'll absolutely hate it, but you sure will get better, and be much more comfortable with it when it comes up in a match.

Also take note that developing a stable raised bridge will help you immensely. Try placing the elbow of your bridge arm down on either the rail or table when possible.

As for combinations, try shooting the first ball at a point on the rail instead of at the second ball. A more distant target should help your accuracy.

It's important to remember that contact induced throw plays a larger part in combinations then in single OB shots, since there are two balls to account for.

Remember that a combination is a difficult shot, and everyone misses even the easier ones. But you can certainly improve your percentages.

- Andy

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[67tbird]

When playing an object ball off another object ball into the pocket, it's fairly easy to send the first object ball down the tangent line to the pocket with speed, when the two object balls are fairly close together.

If the distance between the two object balls is greater, and the first object ball begins rolling, I'm having difficulty determining the contact point on the second object ball to send the first object ball to the pocket. Is there a way to find the contact point on the second object ball that will send the first object ball to the pocket?

Paul, the reason you're finding it easier to gauge the angle off the second ball when they are close together is because the first ball is still sliding, which sends it off on the tangent line.

Once the first ball is rolling, there is a fairly large range of angles at which the first ball will come off the second ball at close to 30 degrees, exactly as if you hit it with a rolling cue ball.

I believe you can find a chart showing this in more depth on Dr Dave's website.

Try racking the balls with the cue ball at the apex of the rack, and begin your game by caroming the remaining OB off the CB and into a pocket. Then shoot the entire rack by cueing any object ball, and caroming it off the cue ball into a pocket.

If you use a rolling ball as much as possible, this will give you a great idea of where you need to hit the second ball to depart on the line you are looking for.

One method to get the first ball to skid a bit longer and depart on the tangent line in an actual game would be to hit the first ball a bit firmer, and make sure you hit it with a rolling cue ball. The gear effect of a rolling cue ball will help slightly.

I hope I've given you some new ideas

- Andy

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Ratta]

I improved the most in my game when I practiced. Sorry, but most players don't practice enough. They just want answers. The answers are found when you hit the tables and put in the work.

Just like you know people, so do I. I know people who keep going to different instructors to find answers. They are trying to find solutions that will enable them to get better with less practice. It's just not going to work. You have to put in the time and get to know yourself at the table.

Been there. Done it. It works.

As for Karen, I just spoke with her day before yesterday. I'll have to ask her about those 30 instructors.

Tap Tap Tap
Amen Mylady

hope you re doin well Fran

lg
Ingo

 

[FranCrimi]

Tap Tap Tap
Amen Mylady

hope you re doin well Fran

lg
Ingo

You betcha, Ingo. Doing great. Hope all is well with you too! Keep on posting. I love reading your advice!

 

[PaulM]

***The rule of thumb is a fuller hit will make the ball depart further away from the tangent line while a thinner hit will depart closer to the tangent line.***

If you use a rolling ball as much as possible, this will give you a great idea of where you need to hit the second ball to depart on the line you are looking for.

Thanks for the replies

I was hoping there might be a system to figure this out to make it easier to learn and apply in a game. Is there a system?

 

[67tbird]

Thanks for the replies

I was hoping there might be a system to figure this out to make it easier to learn and apply in a game. Is there a system?

My system would be the tangent line combined with the 30 degree rule.

That will get you close, but there's no substitute for practice. The game I described would really help, I believe.

Keep in mind though that this is a very difficult shot, and may not always be reasonable. It takes practice to recognize the balls that are ideally positioned to carom off into a pocket.

- Andy

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2

 

[(((Satori)))]

Thanks for the replies

I was hoping there might be a system to figure this out to make it easier to learn and apply in a game. Is there a system?

When you do the drill with natural roll I suggested you will start to understand a system.

You will recognize the range departure angles that are possible and why. You will discover that the full hit will carom off more in line with the shot and the less full you get the carom angle will widen to 33% at half ball then start to go down again.

The major thing you will notice is the wide margin of hits from just inside of 3/4 to just inside of 1/4 and everything in between that will all send the cue close to 30%. This is the 30% line you heard referred to. It happens because as the hit gets thinner the tangent line moves closer to 30% and the cue will track closer to the tangent line. This contact area will allow you the most margin of error but it is still good to know how the 30% was obtained and why it does not occur when you hit too full or too thin.

 

[Mark Avlon]

There is a billiard system that works fairly well.

 

[RWOJO]

Billiards

You need to determine what speed your hitting the shot at and the distance between them. If you are shooting medium to soft speed you have to be aware the 1st object ball will pick up forward roll, and therefor not come off at the tangent line - but rather as if the hit was a follow shot (close to the 30 degree rule).

If you hit the shot with more speed - medium firm to firm, the Object ball will be sliding and if it is still sliding at contact of 2nd object ball, the tangent line will be true.

To help with the first shot (follow), you can do a smooth draw shot and this will impart more follow. To help with the 2nd shot you can do a good follow shot and this will impart back spin on the first object ball.

 

[BasementDweller]

Fran:

Considering straight cueing, in your experience working with students what is the number one reason players DO NOT cue straight?

For me, I think it has been stance and grip hand.

Lately, I've been thinking about outlining my foot position on the floor while shooting straight-ins to ensure an exact alignment on every shot. What do you think of this idea?

 

[FranCrimi]

Fran:

Considering straight cueing, in your experience working with students what is the number one reason players DO NOT cue straight?

For me, I think it has been stance and grip hand.

Lately, I've been thinking about outlining my foot position on the floor while shooting straight-ins to ensure an exact alignment on every shot. What do you think of this idea?

I agree with you. Stance and grip hand are big issues. I have often placed pieces of chalk at my heels and then had players step into my stance just to get an idea of what I feel like at the table. Many are very surprised at what being in balance feels like.

Once you nail down a good stance, then marking it for practice is a great idea --- and also make sure you practice stepping into that stance without looking down, to practice your approach --- and then check to see how you did.

Remember ---The first step you take into your approach can make or break a good stance.

 

[ronscuba]

I improved the most in my game when I practiced. Sorry, but most players don't practice enough. They just want answers. The answers are found when you hit the tables and put in the work.

Just like you know people, so do I. I know people who keep going to different instructors to find answers. They are trying to find solutions that will enable them to get better with less practice. It's just not going to work. You have to put in the time and get to know yourself at the table.

Very true.

For myself I think it is also wanting to get better, faster. I put in a decent amount of practice. My game is steadily improving, but the improvements don't immediately translate to more match wins. I have to remind myself it takes time.

 

[Donny Lutz]

Shooting over balls

Let me get more specific with this question if I can. I'm a 5-6 level player and just a couple of the things I struggle with are combinations and shooting over balls. I try to avoid these situations whenever possible, but sometimes they come up and you have to be able to shoot them. The shooting over balls is especially bad for me. I feel like it makes me a 80-20 underdog at least when it comes to making the shot.

I'm not sure anyone answered your specific question about shooting over balls.

In my experience, many folks are afraid of touching the ball they're shooting over (even when it's not considered a foul), so they raise the tip during the business stroke and follow through up in the air. On most such shots you still want to follow through in the direction your cue tip was traveling on the way to the cue ball.

I suggest loosening your grip a bit and kind of letting the cue "drop" through the shot. It's quite alright for your tip to touch the table on your follow through...obviously not with too much force. You'll notice that when this happens, the contact with the table actually helps move the tip away from the ball you're shooting over, without any extra effort on your part.

So, what I'm saying I guess, is don't fear the shot and relax in your execution.

 

[ENGLISH!]

Let me get more specific with this question if I can. I'm a 5-6 level player and just a couple of the things I struggle with are combinations and shooting over balls. I try to avoid these situations whenever possible, but sometimes they come up and you have to be able to shoot them. The shooting over balls is especially bad for me. I feel like it makes me a 80-20 underdog at least when it comes to making the shot.

One of the problems that I see from many players when shooting over a ball is a bad & wobbly bridge many of which actually move when they make the stroke.

What I do, since the middle finger is longer than the rest, is cross it over the index finger. Then I have four (4) solid finger tip 'points' on the table to form a solid bridge for the cue stick.

I do do what Mr. Lutz said about the cue stick coming up but I make sure that I make good contact with the cue ball before it comes up off my hand.

Personally, I generally do not want to shoot down hard in those situations & make the cue ball bounce unless I have to stop or try to draw the ball for some reason. Generally, in those situations, I just want to make sure that I make the ball so I can shoot again where I will probably have a better situation to control my cue ball.

Please try the cross fingered bridge. I think it might help.

 

[ENGLISH!]

Hay Fran, or Anyone Else

I know that there is probably no quick fix for this issue but I just thought I'd ask, just in case someone has an idea.

As some of you may know I have been playing for 46 years spinning the ball with english & cheating pockets for position.

Lately I have been playing on 9' Diamonds with 4" pockets, When I say 4 inches, I am being generous. They are more like 3 & 7/8 & I'm talking at the points.

Anyway when not cheating a pocket for a reason, I have always shaded shots to the side of the pocket that would accept a ball hitting the rail first with accepting spin. The other side is an automatic miss so I would shade to the slight mis acceptance side.

Well these pockets obviously will not accept that shot if it touches the rail.

So... my question is does anyone have an idea how to get rid of that subconscious shading the shot to that side.

I know these are just tough pockets. I've rolled balls down the rail 1/4" off the rail & the ball has hit well inside the point on the pocket facing & the ball will not go.. Hell, I've even s hit shots rolling on the rail & if they are hit too hard they don't always go.

I've tightened up my focus & fine tuned shots but every once in awhile I'll shoot what should be an easy shot & I will subconsciously shade it & ta da dump.

I really don't like having to shoot with so much conscious thought trying to over ride my subconscious but if I don't do it I'll hit that shade side too often.

Any ideas? Or do I just need to grind it out til my subconscious learns his lesson.

Best to All,
Rick

 

[(((Satori)))]

I know that there is probably no quick fix for this issue but I just thought I'd ask, just in case someone has an idea.

As some of you may know I have been playing for 46 years spinning the ball with english & cheating pockets for position.

Lately I have been playing on 9' Diamonds with 4" pockets, When I say 4 inches, I am being generous. They are more like 3 & 7/8 & I'm talking at the points.

Anyway when not cheating a pocket for a reason, I have always shaded shots to the side of the pocket that would accept a ball hitting the rail first with accepting spin. The other side is an automatic miss so I would shade to the slight mis acceptance side.

Well these pockets obviously will not accept that shot if it touches the rail.

So... my question is does anyone have an idea how to get rid of that subconscious shading the shot to that side.

I know these are just tough pockets. I've rolled balls down the rail 1/4" off the rail & the ball has hit well inside the point on the pocket facing & the ball will not go.. Hell, I've even s hit shots rolling on the rail & if they are hit too hard they don't always go.

I've tightened up my focus & fine tuned shots but every once in awhile I'll shoot what should be an easy shot & I will subconsciously shade it & ta da dump.

I really don't like having to shoot with so much conscious thought trying to over ride my subconscious but if I don't do it I'll hit that shade side too often.

Any ideas? Or do I just need to grind it out til my subconscious learns his lesson.

Best to All,
Rick

Suppose you are playing on a GC with 4.5" pockets... when you are cheating the pocket, you make a conscious decision to pocket the ball on the left or right side while analyzing the shot, right?

You just need to use a similar process when analyzing the shot you are referring to on the Diamond... Make a conscious decision to hit the pro side of the pocket.

 

[ENGLISH!]

Suppose you are playing on a GC with 4.5" pockets... when you are cheating the pocket, you make a conscious decision to pocket the ball on the left or right side while analyzing the shot, right?

You just need to use a similar process when analyzing the shot you are referring to on the Diamond... Make a conscious decision to hit the pro side of the pocket.

Thanks.

I've been doing that subconsciously but they don't all go on this table. I think I figured it out when replying to Pidge on the main.

Thanks again,
Rick

 

[bbb]

doesnt cj's TOI have you aim at the facing side (that you can see)of the pocket??
im not an instructor and dont use TOI