Cushion Angles Inaccurate

[chrisjackson]

If this belongs in another category please advise.

I have an over sized 8 foot OL Timer A.E. Schmidt Table from the '80s. 1" slate with dolls in each piece. 2 foot Level checks out perfectly everywhere on the table. Along the short side the a ball will travel 4 1/3 times, when freshly cleaned or polished 5 1/3 times or more.

Similiarly for the long side. When hitting cushion shots it seems the angles are way off.

I measured the short side at the corners + before the center pockets, and they are off an eighth or so. I did this each side of the center pockets and same results. I find it hard to believe that would cause a drastic deviation of predicateable angles.

The cushions are firm and give just a little when squeezed. A three bank shot starting at one corner to go into the other corner I can't make to save my life anymore except about 1 in 7 times. But at local tables, piece of cake.

I've never played on an oversized eight before now.

I talked to the previous owner and the person who installed it and they don't have a clue since the cushions still have descent bounce.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

 

[ctyhntr]

Check the local rooms and hire the person who works on their tables.

 

[pt109]

You can see if the long rails are straight by rolling a froze combo both ways
...if the ball gets past the side pocket going both ways, it's straight enough.

Now measure the contact height of the cushion several times around the
table ( the nose is where the ball contacts the rubber )...
...if the height of a rail is lower than the others, it will play shorter and faster.

It's also possible that the glue to the rubber has separated some places....
....look for dead spots.

Also, check all the rail bolts for tightness....a loose bolt makes a rail rebound long.

I had a friend asked me to check his three snooker tables, he thought
they might need new rubber.
They were missing bolts....I figured the billiard mechanic lost a table's
worth of bolts so just spread around what he had left....the tables played
great with the new bolts.

Also, if the table was stored dismantled, some rails could have warped...
..pull a rail and check.

If all else fails, get them re-rubbered.

 

[3kushn]

If this belongs in another category please advise.

I have an over sized 8 foot OL Timer A.E. Schmidt Table from the '80s. 1" slate with dolls in each piece. 2 foot Level checks out perfectly everywhere on the table. Along the short side the a ball will travel 4 1/3 times, when freshly cleaned or polished 5 1/3 times or more.

Similiarly for the long side. When hitting cushion shots it seems the angles are way off.

I measured the short side at the corners + before the center pockets, and they are off an eighth or so. I did this each side of the center pockets and same results. I find it hard to believe that would cause a drastic deviation of predicateable angles.

The cushions are firm and give just a little when squeezed. A three bank shot starting at one corner to go into the other corner I can't make to save my life anymore except about 1 in 7 times. But at local tables, piece of cake.

I've never played on an oversized eight before now.

I talked to the previous owner and the person who installed it and they don't have a clue since the cushions still have descent bounce.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Schmitt tables play different than Brunswick and most others. Actually better as far as angles. Brunswick tables play about 1/2 diamonds short according to the 5 System..

Is this your problem? The CB is coming long. In other words its hitting the short rail?

From the corner to diamond 3 should drop in the other corner pocket. There are some nuances. Smooth stroke, moderate speed with running English for one.

 

[chrisjackson]

The nose is just about the same all the way around.
The playing surface is 45 3/4 to 91 3/4.

On the 3 bank shot it hits the short rail first most of the time when aiming at the middle diamond.
On one side sometimes 2 out of 10, it goes in the side pocket instead of the corner pocket.

I rolled two frozen balls all the way down the long side and that worked okay.

When I called the installer he said I could loosen the bolts and make the width and length perfectly equal and then tighten the bolts. I don't have anything that can slide apart and lock at a certain width. And I certainly don't have anything that will slide apart and lock down for the length.

I have not tightened the bolts yet.

I bought it from a retired A.E. Schmidt table builder and he was so worried it wouldn't be set up right as he said the so called experts in the field are many times a bunch of hacks.

And in testing the angles at the previous owners house it seemed that they were much more accurate although this is something I can't prove.

 

[3kushn]

The nose is just about the same all the way around.
The playing surface is 45 3/4 to 91 3/4.

On the 3 bank shot it hits the short rail first most of the time when aiming at the middle diamond.
On one side sometimes 2 out of 10, it goes in the side pocket instead of the corner pocket.

You need to hit 30 not 20 from the corner. The corner is 50. 50-30=20 20 connects to the corner. 30 or 50-20 connects to the side pocket, if it wasn't there the fourth rail is the first diamond from the pocket on the short rail. Your third rail must be hitting just ahead of the side pocket. This says your first rail is incorrect.
Basic 5 System
CB numbers 15,20,25,30,35,40,45,50
OB (first rail)numbers 10,20,30,40,50,60,70,80

From Hoppe's Book "Billiards as it should be played"



Edit: Pool tables like I said normally don't play like above. Hitting 2 on a GC might make the corner.