oil rubbed or satin cue
- Thread starter Jdm34
- Start date
ElCorazonFrio
Banned
Oil rubbed, possibly. Not likely if the correct oil is used. Most wood stocked rifles were oil finish. Usually Tung oil.
Hard satin finish...no. Unless it never fully cures.
I have finished dozens of cues and several guitars with BirchWood Casey Gun Stock Oil and have never had a problem. The secret is about 12 THIN coats, hand-rubbed, with the oil and cue at room temperature. Wait a week or so and polish. Comes out like glass and very easy to repair.
100 percent agree with this. Exact same brand. Best finish I have seen. The only draw back was it took me a month to do.
Coos Cues
Coos Cues
And your cue will look like crap and get sticky after about a year with regular play. The durability of this finish is not cue worthy.
Me too. I mixed it about 50/50 with tung oil and warmed it over a tea candle before applying with the hands. You can really feel how well and evenly you are covering with bare hands. As many as 30 thin coats.
All the top snooker cue makers use Linseed oil,,,,,,,,,, there is a reason why.
I've used linseed oil too but you have to be very careful with rags that have linseed oil on them. I used to toss them directly into the fireplace.
Are you using this oil as a top coat with an undercoat of another material? [honestly asking as I like to avoid using 2K clear coat]
Somebody didn't let it cure well enough between coats. Also, thinning with tung or linseed oil and warming before application will help the finish set.
boogieman
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that ping.
It's a drying oil?
A lot of tung oils today are actually just various oils mixed with a small % of varnish. Watco Danish oil, a finish I use almost exclusively for my woodturnings, also has a small % of urethane varnish. I enhance mine by adding about 3 to 4 oz of satin polyurethane to a new qt of Danish oil. Still mostly an oil finish, but with a touch more of an actual finish. I do two to three coats, and it gives a beautiful rubbed finish look if applied correctly. After applying you must rub it out every half hour for a couple of hrs. If I were to do on a cue, I would add semigloss, or gloss to the Danish oil, and probably add a touch more. Also I would never add multiple coats of oil without waiting for the previous coat to cure and that will take 3 to 6 days per coat. The finish that I use would never become gummy over time if applied correctly, as basically it would be a polyurethane finish. I dump my finish every 2 years and get a fresh can as after 2 years it takes longer to cure. At 3 to 6 days a coat I would not use this finish as a business to finish a cue.
NICECUE317
Registered
I have been using 4 coats of finishing epoxy and sanding out to1000 grit and not polishing. It creates a beautiful satin finish that feels like suede. It's the only way I found I could shoot a no wrap cue.
In fact just a quick wipe with 1000 grit restores that same feel after a few months of playing. After cloth wiping down the cue between playing, seems to polish it enough that it begins to feel clammy in a month or so. Easy to maintain, and the matte finish looks amazing.
I offer it no as an alternative to a polished out cue.
In fact just a quick wipe with 1000 grit restores that same feel after a few months of playing. After cloth wiping down the cue between playing, seems to polish it enough that it begins to feel clammy in a month or so. Easy to maintain, and the matte finish looks amazing.
I offer it no as an alternative to a polished out cue.
The classic tool to go from glossy to satin finish is steel wool.
If you like pretty wood and gorgeous finishes check out this guy's channel: