Tip question on glazing
- Thread starter lstevedus
- Start date
Agree
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Kamui blacks mostly. The browns are a lot better in this area. I guess Kamui had to come out with their Gator to help this. I've got the generic/knockoff version of the Gator and it works good. I use Ultraskins and they are fairly glaze resistant.
I use triangles and probably shoot harder on most shots than would be typical for a pool player, since I only play 3c. I find that just the stroking action of applying chalk, with the slight abrasiveness of the chalk (I use Magic Chalk) results in virtually no glazing.
I use Ultra Skin soft tips and they never glaze.
Strange. I was really disappointed by the glazing of the Ultra Skin soft tips. I got them with brand new Meucci shafts (straight from the factory). Could it be that there are different versions of Ultra Skins (Soft)? Someone mentioned that there are different ones but supposedly the new ones have a different name?
Before I used Le Pros and they never glazed - the old ones at least.
Milk Duds (Elkmaster) don't glaze much either, at least the kind I got.
1billiardking
Registered
If you scuff your tip before you play, the chance of glazing is minimal. Usually glazing comes from the oil on the cue ball due to people handling the ball. As for Ultra skin tips, I take 2-2.5 layers off of the tip to get to the meat of the tip, this will get the optimum playability.
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
It is true that scuffing and or picking the Ultra Skins reduces glazing a lot. However, I don't normally pick or scuff my tips unless they become too flat.
I see a great difference between the Ultra Skins and the Le Pros and Milk Duds. I almost never scuff the Le Pros and the Milk Duds either - and the Le Pros never glaze, even after hundreds of hours of play. The Milk Duds glaze very little after some time. With the Ultra Skins, I can't even play for three hours without significant glazing. I have two of them installed on 2 different shafts and both are the same.
Could it be that some (newer) Ultra Skins don't glaze as much?
I see a great difference between the Ultra Skins and the Le Pros and Milk Duds. I almost never scuff the Le Pros and the Milk Duds either - and the Le Pros never glaze, even after hundreds of hours of play. The Milk Duds glaze very little after some time. With the Ultra Skins, I can't even play for three hours without significant glazing. I have two of them installed on 2 different shafts and both are the same.
Could it be that some (newer) Ultra Skins don't glaze as much?
I have no idea what is wrong with your Ultra Skin softs. I have them on several of my shafts and they all play well and don't glaze over or mushroom. I hit the ball WAY HARDER than most people and I even break with my playing shaft and my tip has yet to glaze and hasn't turned hard. I have hours and hours on this tip and I played with it for 8 hours straight on Sunday without once doing anything to it.
I bought my tips directly from Tom Hay and the one that was on my playing cue was put on by Becue when I ordered the shaft. I replaced it with one from Tom when it got worn down and it played the same way as the one put on by Becue.
Well, apparently I'm not the only one. I've read the same from other people. My Ultra Skin Softs are the worst tips I ever had WRT glazing. No mushrooming, though. I got them installed by Meucci brand new on the shafts. So they might be from an older lot but I would bet they aren't fakes.
I've used Kamui mediums, Le Pros, Elkmaster Duds and several others before. Not even the Kamuis came close to the glazing of the Ultra Skins. Just checked again today - freshly scuffed it only took about 2 racks before the glazing started again and it got really bad after around 5 racks. I always offset this by using Magic Chalk and I'll have to basically chalk every single shot. With Magic I can shoot about 3 balls before the glazing shows again if I don't chalk every single shot. If I use Magic on my Milk Duds or Le Pros it stays on for about 10-15 balls but no glazing after that - just chalk missing on the tip. If I use Master chalk the Skins' glazing shows right after the first shot.
I don't really shoot hard with them a lot. Well, I might draw a bit more than average on my 6.5 footer. I never break with the Ultra Skins - apart from soft breaks in Straight Pool or 1P. Oh well. I appreciate what Tom Hay has been doing for the pool community but the glazing makes me want to change back to Milk Duds soon. Bought some from Pooldawg just recently. The Le Pros are too inconsistent in quality nowadays. The one I still have on an old Meucci cue was perfect, though. Still use that cue occasionally with the original Le Pro on it.
I haven't had any glazing issues since I've been his cosmetic chalk. Anytime I chalk even for the 1st time of the night the tip looks like it's brand new cut and shapped like it just come off the lathe.
Patrick, we're you aware you are suppose to drag the tip pik across the tip, not "pick" it. Otherwise you are just pushing the leather down into the tip, and changing the consistency of the tip.
I was not aware this either until I spoke with Mike from It's George. You know him from his cases, but he also invented one of the great all time Tip Tappers..... and his newest version has a "tip pik" installed on the tapper. Just use it to "scratch" gently across the tip, don't plunge the needles into the tip.
Well, because you use Magic Chalk, I'm going to throw in a free TZAR Tip on your next order. Give it a go and let me know what you think. Ask your installer how well the TZAR tips cuts when he's installing it. Trust what he says about the quality of the leather that is being used. I won't tell you how good it is, I'll let the experts in the field do that
They know when a good tip is using the best pigskin. Also, drag the tip, after installation, against the cloth... listen to it. Just put the cue out on the cloth, tip down, and drag it back towards you. It does not sound like fingernails on a chalk board. Some tips do sound nasty on the cloth. That's poor quality leather that is really hard and rough. hey, the price is right, so let me know.
Thanks for your offer. However, I don't think it will be taken. I live in Germany. Too much postage to make them worth ordering from the US
When I cross the big pond next time, I might have some sent to my buddy's place to pick 'em up there, though.
Currently, I am happy with the milk duds, at least when someone made them who knows how to.
Thanks for your offer. However, I don't think it will be taken. I live in Germany. Too much postage to make them worth ordering from the US
When I cross the big pond next time, I might have some sent to my buddy's place to pick 'em up there, though.
Currently, I am happy with the milk duds, at least when someone made them who knows how to.
Do you buy MC from Double Dave Cues, he's my German dealer. Once he starts selling TZAR Tips, I'll have him send you a tip
"Scratching" the tip is exactly what I want to avoid by picking. Works great for all the years I've been doing it. In particular, no change in tip consistency.
I think Mike is mistaken about how they're "supposed to" be used. If you really want to "scratch" your tip I can think of many better designs for that than a bundle of needle points to drag across it.
pj
chgo
Actually, being a science guy on this I thought you would understand. The scratching is raising the fibers of the leather. The "picking" is just pushing the leather down into the tip. And by pushing down on the leather, you are in fact, changing the make up of the tip. The leather has to go some where when it's being forced by the pick. That soft tip is not going to be soft for long, nor is it going to be the same hardness.
But, if it works for you, fine by me. Just makes sense when Mike explained it, and I've yet to hear a better explanation on the topic other than the old way works for them.
Do you buy MC from Double Dave Cues, he's my German dealer. Once he starts selling TZAR Tips, I'll have him send you a tip
Yep, DoubleDave was my source.