Anyone have experience w Viking Seige CF Shaft?
- Thread starter mrpiper
- Start date
Its filament wound just like the Cynergy & Revo. Haven't seen or hit one. Search it on here. I think some have tried it. Vid:
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xX-Wizard-Xx
Well-known member
There is always a unique construction...
Look, they're either flag-wrapped or filament wound. You want to believe that there's some magic method that only viking knows about then go right ahead.
xX-Wizard-Xx
Well-known member
That's what I was saying lol
That's the word... filament wound. Of course every company claims theirs is the best or unique. Is there any real difference between filament wound and flag wrapped in how they play? If I buy one will it make me as good as Efren?
No, because he uses woodIf I buy one will it make me as good as Efren?
no. some of the tubes that smaller shops buy are flag-wrapped. carbonoid told me their's are flag-wrapped. you can't tell when playing.That's the word... filament wound. Of course every company claims theirs is the best or unique. Is there any real difference between filament wound and flag wrapped in how they play? If I buy one will it make me as good as Efren?
you're post was vague is why i answered as i did.
Really smooth. Nice feeling hit. Lots of deflection compared to REVO
Supprised no one has tested the two methods of construction to see how much difference there is. It's actually a quite simple process. Competitive archers do it all the time when fetching their arrows. I used to have a home made spine tester when I was into archery competion, and you would just rotate the shafts before fetching to be sure the spine was always in the same orientation. There will more than likely be a spine difference on wrapped shafts. Is it enough to matter, who knows, probably much less than a standard wood shaft. It is simple to make, you don't need a dial guage, just two v blocks spaced say 26" or so, and an arm with a weight at the area that touches the shaft in the center and the other side of the arm with the end like a pointer. So if the end of the arm with the weight is say 2" or so from its pivot and resting on the shaft, the outer end of the arm with the pointer would be 12" to 18" out from that or so. The longer the better to show any deflection difference. The filament wound should have virtually no variation.
You can't tell diff. when playing. I've hit both types and they felt the same as far as hit quality, defl, etc. A lot of super hi-end golf shafts are still sheet-wrapped and they play fine. If done correctly either method can yield quality tubes. FW is much faster and cost effective.
May not matter on a golf shaft as the flex is the same every time you use that club, but I think they are still indexing the shafts before installing the head and grip. On a pool shaft, who knows how much different flex it would take to matter as you are most likely always holding the cue at a different rotation, unlike a golf shaft. Heck, people still love their stock maple shafts, and there for sure is a deflection difference in those depending on rotation. Does it really matter in pool shafts, I am not good enough to know, but didn't Meucci put dots on their wood shafts for this very reason? What it seems like in pool, is its more about the end weight of the shaft, and less about the stiffness of it, so the actual flex may not matter much. On a archery shafts your groups will open up if the shafts are not indexed before fletching due to the different flexing of the shaft depending on rotation.
Multiple tests have been done on indexing golf shafts using low-handicap and pro's. Virtually none could tell the difference in feel or performance. CF shafts don't have grain like wood so a 'line-up dot' ala Meucci is un-needed. Even the chepest cf shafts have better radial consistency than solid maple. Noting to worry about.
My boyfriend has had a Viking Siege, 12.5mm, for several months. I currently play with a Revo, 11.8mm. I also have a Revo, 12.4, a Predator Z3, and my 1st cue, a Player's HXT. They all have Kamui medium tips. The Siege has a slightly softer feel than my Revo's, which isn't a factor for me, though. I only used his cue for about a week. During that brief time, but after many shots, we both feel that the deflection seemed the same judging from hitting with power on off-center hits. Neither of us have done specific tests, however, such as where the cue ball makes contact with a rail (a Dr. Dave-type test).
As I'm typing here, I've decided to do a specific rail test on all the shafts mentioned, even though I'm pretty certain the Player's has a bit more deflection than the CF's, and the Z3 seemed somewhere in-between the CF's and the Player's, but we'll see. I'll get back here with the results in a couple of days.
As I'm typing here, I've decided to do a specific rail test on all the shafts mentioned, even though I'm pretty certain the Player's has a bit more deflection than the CF's, and the Z3 seemed somewhere in-between the CF's and the Player's, but we'll see. I'll get back here with the results in a couple of days.
HXT will have the most deflection, Revo the least. The 12.4 and the 11.8 have pretty much the same amount of deflection but have a pretty different hit feel.
I index carbon fiber fishing rod blanks before installing handle and wrapping guides. It definitely is critical if you dont want a broken rod at the worst possible time.
I guess so. No clue about fishing rods. Only one i ever broke was a g.Loomis that i shut a door on.
they still replaced it. i know a guy in fl. that fishes a lot. breaks more reels than rods. modern rods are tough sob's.After over three straight hours of very firm shots to a rail with a 1.5 tip-width of side spin, and using a training ball for a consistent hit, here are my unscientific conclusions from the deflection testing I promised here the other day. I gave each shaft a number designation so I could better show the degree of differences in the results. I used the same bridge length for each shaft and the cue ball was four feet from the object ball. I was constantly rotating the shafts for more accurate results
By the way, even though I really like the 11.8 Revo, I'm still in the market to replace it, so if anyone feels they have a CF shaft with a lower deflection, I'd like to hear from you. I'm not concerned about feel; just performance. There's a store nearby that allows testing of their cues. Thanks!
[To the original poster of this thread, mrpiper, the Viking Siege feels like a 12.5 Cuetec Cynergy in that it has the same soft hit when compared to the Revo's, but I would say a bit less deflection than the Cynergy]
Predator Revo 11.8mm... 5
Predator Revo 12.4... 4.5
Predator Z3 11.8... 4.25
Viking Siege 12.5... 4
Player's HXT 12.75... 3.5
Player's regular wood shaft (non-low deflection)... 2.5
I'm curious as to how the slimmer shafts of Player's HXT and Viking's Siege would compare above.
I have a Viking Seige as well as their LD Inviktus and Vikore shafts.
I have also learned not to waste my thumbs trying to convince anyone here they are any good. People (understandably) just won't forgive Viking for all that Pearloid / Mother of Toilet Seat they used 30 years ago
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
I have also learned not to waste my thumbs trying to convince anyone here they are any good. People (understandably) just won't forgive Viking for all that Pearloid / Mother of Toilet Seat they used 30 years ago
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk