Shaft Weight Importance

garczar said:
Zero evidence any specific weight is more/less accurate/consistent.
Click to expand...

It's hard to have "evidence" for something that is only seen by the person playing. However, many top players are using pretty heavy and long cues, and several of them told me because it holds the line of the shot better. If you think about it purely in theory, the heavier the cue the less likely it is to be thrown off course, same as any other heavier thing. More mass, more effort to move it from the line it's already traveling.
 
hang-the-9 said:
It's hard to have "evidence" for something that is only seen by the person playing. However, many top players are using pretty heavy and long cues, and several of them told me because it holds the line of the shot better. If you think about it purely in theory, the heavier the cue the less likely it is to be thrown off course, same as any other heavier thing. More mass, more effort to move it from the line it's already traveling.
Click to expand...
I use a Mezz with a cf extension. It weighs 20oz and is 61" w/ext. I like the length and the weight but i don't think this set-up is inherently more accurate than any other. I know guys that play lights-out with 17.5-18oz 57" cues.
 
garczar said:
I use a Mezz with a cf extension. It weighs 20oz and is 61" w/ext. I like the length and the weight but i don't think this set-up is inherently more accurate than any other. I know guys that play lights-out with 17.5-18oz 57" cues.
Click to expand...

Yes there is nothing in specs you can read that would tell you if a cue will make you play better, but it's a simple physics and word of mouth thing. Players find that they do better with shots with one, and it's a known fact heavier is harder to move from the course it's on. How you or how anyone else actually ends up playing with the cue is their own thing. I don't use a longer/heavier cue, because I don't like it, my son and the pros I talked to that do use one, explained to me why they use it, and I am passing on what they said. It's the same thing with LD shafts vs standard shafts, there are known reasons to use one or the other, but who can play good with one or the other depends on the person. So WHY one would use a heavier cue or longer cue is known, but if it's something a person will actually do or if the reason will help them is based on the person.
 
Tennesseejoe said:
I think he was referring to grip placement not grip tightness...but maybe not.
Click to expand...
Grip placement could matter theoretically (if on or forward of the balance point), but I was actually referring to tightness, either from the beginning or tightening during the stroke. For example, if the cue is held with the tips of the thumb and forefinger it will "hinge" there and not lift out of the bridge.

pj
chgo
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Grip placement could matter theoretically (if on or forward of the balance point), but I was actually referring to tightness, either from the beginning or tightening during the stroke. For example, if the cue is held with the tips of the thumb and forefinger it will "hinge" there and not lift out of the bridge.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
I do not understand...if the a majority of the weight is behind the hinge, the tip would rise.
 
As others have pointed out...the balance matters. Players prefer different balance points in cues, but the balance matters.
Here's a more recent thread on the topic.

physical consequences of cue balance point location

I figure if one hand is on one end of the cue, and one hand is on the other, where the bp is probably won't make a huge difference but I don't know for sure, and am curious. say if more weight is in back, could that affect a player's stroke in any way? would that affect stroke speed or anything...
forums.azbilliards.com
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Does it rise up when you're not stroking? That would be a balance issue.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
Yes, if the weight is too far aft the tip will have very little weight on my open bridge. Not enough weight forward to balance correctly. My grip is my grip, personal preference. I'm 5'8" and don't shoot with an extension.
 
Goosekeeper said:
I completely agree. A lighter cue which is forward-balanced is both nimble in overall weight, but hits more accurately and consistently, like a heavier cue. Best of both worlds.

Who are the cue makers who prefer heavier shafts that you referenced?
Click to expand...
Actually there are four……Joel Hercek & Ed Prewitt are recognizable names and I conferred with both cue makers.
Of the cues I own, Bob Owen & Jerry Rauenzahn made cues for me and confirmed weightier shafts just play better.
 
Older, drier maple is lighter. A big pin shaft is lighter than a piloted.

Most of the "preferred" cuemakers load up the weight with ivory and brass inserts.

Just play with what feels good. Lots of morons fall apart if their extremely precise tolerances aren't met.
 
Last edited:
Here’s a rule of thumb……the shaft should weigh between 18% and 23% of the cue weight.
I prefer shafts weighing above 20% and 22% is my ideal weight ratio. So a 19 oz. cue shaft’s
weight comes in at 4.1-4. 2 ozs. My cues are 18.5-18.7 ozs & shafts weigh 4.0 ozs & heavier.

Cue makers back in the 60’s & 70’s would produce cue shafts that reached 24% weight ratios.
Everyone should play what they like regardless of what anyone else thinks as was pointed out.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
Why do you think a heavier cue hits more accurately and consistently?

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
I can speak for myself…
The weight of the cue transfers down the length of the cue, through the tip, into the cue ball. The more weight you have, the less force is required from the stroke. The more force in the stroke, the higher the chances of little deviations sneaking into it. Momentum.

Take it to the extreme: you have two cues. One is 10oz, the other is 30oz. The 30oz should be far better for long, straight shots, while the 10oz would probably handle very delicate, touch shots.
 
Bavafongoul said:
Actually there are four……Joel Hercek & Ed Prewitt are recognizable names and I conferred with both cue makers.
Of the cues I own, Bob Owen & Jerry Rauenzahn made cues for me and confirmed weightier shafts just play better.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thank you. PFD is making me a 4.4 right now.

My sweet spot is a cue which weighs right about 18.4 with a balance point of 38.25”
 
Goosekeeper said:
I can speak for myself…
The weight of the cue transfers down the length of the cue, through the tip, into the cue ball. The more weight you have, the less force is required from the stroke. The more force in the stroke, the higher the chances of little deviations sneaking into it. Momentum.

Take it to the extreme: you have two cues. One is 10oz, the other is 30oz. The 30oz should be far better for long, straight shots, while the 10oz would probably handle very delicate, touch shots.
Click to expand...
So it’s a stroke thing. I buy that.

Thanks.

pj
chgo
 
The only other variables for a shaft are it’s diameter and taper. Obviously a smaller
shaft and a longer taper can lower the ratio. Nonetheless, your cue maker can still
maintain the ratio range by being fastidious about the wood selected for the shafts.
 
Since the title of this thread is Shaft Weight Importance, I'm going to throw this in to the mix. My Revo weighs 4.3ozs. I have another cf shaft that weighs much less. There are several reasons why, but the Revo performs and feels much better.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top