Dynasphere Bronze....

EL Picos

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I read a lot of old comments on these balls, and today people have always good feeling about them, how can compare the hit to Aramith models?
And comparison with costly Dynasphere models?
 
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I read a lot of old comments on these balls, and today people have always good feeling about them, how can compare the hit to Aramith models?
And comparison with costly Dynasphere models?
I don't have the Bronze, but I do have the Tungsten and they are just as good as my Aramith Premiums. I would say they roll and get pocketed just as well as my Arcos II as well, though the Arcos II tends to stay a bit cleaner.
 
I read a lot of old comments on these balls, and today people have always good feeling about them, how can compare the hit to Aramith models?
And comparison with costly Dynasphere models?
Unlike Aramith who use different resins for different sets, Dynaspheres sets all use the same resin. The price increases of the Dynaspheres sets has to do with the additional labor involved in the inlay/design work of the top tier sets. The Tungstens (least expensive) and the Platinums (most expensive) therefore play the same with the only difference being design/aesthetics.

My only comparison in terms of playability is the Dynashperes Bronze and the Aramith Tournaments. I cannot tell the difference between the two in terms of playability. The biggest difference I noticed was the Dynashperes stay cleaner, longer. FWIW, I did a weight comparison on all my sets and a few of my friend's. The offerings from Dynaspheres were more consistent in weight that the Aramith made sets. Data can be seen here: https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/pool-ball-weights.536976/
 
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How these bronze balls can be compared with aramith pro in durability, somebody know?
 
How these bronze balls can be compared with aramith pro in durability, somebody know?
They haven't been in use long enough to make that call but why would they not be same? I know people who have old sets of Cyclop(same material) balls that still look brand new.
 
They haven't been in use long enough to make that call but why would they not be same? I know people who have old sets of Cyclop(same material) balls that still look brand new.
Yes probably, I'm just a bit hesitant to suggere them to my pool room local owner, he need 24 sets but he don't want to pay for Duramith, I have one Bronze set from 3 months and they play very well they roll number one.
I send an email to Dynasphere and they said that the Bronze balls are always available, I asked too the comparaison between the gold and bronze and the answer was that all their balls are made with the same phenolic resin and the same tolerances, it's a bit incredible when we see the price difference!
 
Yes probably, I'm just a bit hesitant to suggere them to my pool room local owner, he need 24 sets but he don't want to pay for Duramith, I have one Bronze set from 3 months and they play very well they roll number one.
I send an email to Dynasphere and they said that the Bronze balls are always available, I asked too the comparaison between the gold and bronze and the answer was that all their balls are made with the same phenolic resin and the same tolerances, it's a bit incredible when we see the price difference!
MainSt. in Mesa,Az has been using them a while now. Zero complaints from what i hear. They are as good as Aramith's.
 
Yes probably, I'm just a bit hesitant to suggere them to my pool room local owner, he need 24 sets but he don't want to pay for Duramith, I have one Bronze set from 3 months and they play very well they roll number one.
I send an email to Dynasphere and they said that the Bronze balls are always available, I asked too the comparaison between the gold and bronze and the answer was that all their balls are made with the same phenolic resin and the same tolerances, it's a bit incredible when we see the price difference!

The cueball in those sets seems to be more prone to chips from phenolic breakers and traps chalk more than the higher end Pro Cup and Duramith balls from Aramith but the other balls I have not seen any playability or durability differences with owning a few sets and having a local pool hall have a few sets as testers for a full swap. Safe purchase, but maybe grab a few of the measles cue balls also and compare how the durability goes with those as well.
 
The cueball in those sets seems to be more prone to chips from phenolic breakers and traps chalk more than the higher end Pro Cup and Duramith balls from Aramith but the other balls I have not seen any playability or durability differences with owning a few sets and having a local pool hall have a few sets as testers for a full swap. Safe purchase, but maybe grab a few of the measles cue balls also and compare how the durability goes with those as well.
Thanks for the comment it's appreciated!
 
The cueball in those sets seems to be more prone to chips from phenolic breakers and traps chalk more than the higher end Pro Cup and Duramith balls from Aramith but the other balls I have not seen any playability or durability differences with owning a few sets and having a local pool hall have a few sets as testers for a full swap. Safe purchase, but maybe grab a few of the measles cue balls also and compare how the durability goes with those as well.
Is this just a guess or do you have proof of this?? Reason i ask is i've yet to hear of any such issues with Dynasphere cueballs. Also, cueballs don't really 'trap' chalk as much as chalk just sticks to the surface. A lot of DS owners have reported less chalk residue than other cueballs. The DSphere phenolic blend may not be as hard as the Duramith but its close.
 
Is this just a guess or do you have proof of this?? Reason i ask is i've yet to hear of any such issues with Dynasphere cueballs. Also, cueballs don't really 'trap' chalk as much as chalk just sticks to the surface. A lot of DS owners have reported less chalk residue than other cueballs. The DSphere phenolic blend may not be as hard as the Duramith but its close.

Not sure why I would just guess about it, I have played with 3 sets of those balls and can see the differences. Lines form on them and the chalk marks show up more. I would think trapping the chalk is the same as chalk sticking to it LOL, I mean is the cueball liking the chalk more or is the chalk liking the cueball more? Same results either way, the chalk marks from playing with the Dynasphere cueballs show up more and need to be wiped off more than on the Aramith cueballs. Since the chalk used is the same I would think it's from the cueball not from the chalk.

These are a few pictures I took a bit ago when I first got one of the sets, the marks were only on the cueball so certain they did not come from anything on the table hitting it.

cueball.JPG



cueball1.JPG
 
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Not sure why I would just guess about it, I have played with 3 sets of those balls and can see the differences. Lines form on them and the chalk marks show up more. I would think trapping the chalk is the same as chalk sticking to it LOL, I mean is the cueball liking the chalk more or is the chalk liking the cueball more? Same results either way, the chalk marks from playing with the Dynasphere cueballs show up more and need to be wiped off more than on the Aramith cueballs. Since the chalk used is the same I would think it's from the cueball not from the chalk.

These are a few pictures I took a bit ago when I first got one of the sets, the marks were only on the cueball so certain they did not come from anything on the table hitting it.

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i've seen aramith cb's like that when hit by G10 tips. contact Championship(US dist) and see what they say/do. btw, is the table a GC? Reason i ask is sometimes the pocket screws get loose and protrude a little bit. that can cause marks like this too. those don't look like tip related marks to me.
 
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i've seen aramith cb's like that when hit by G10/phenolic tips. contact Championship(US dist) and see what they say/do. btw, is the table a GC? Reason i ask is sometimes the pocket screws get loose and protrude a little bit. that can cause marks like this too. those don't look like tip related marks to me.

Those marks were only on the Dynaspheres not on our Armaith cueballs. This is my home table, it's an Olhausen, I took the pictures because I noticed the marks right away after using the balls, but also the same thing happened at a pool hall I play in that has two Dynaspher sets, not GC tables, furniture tables. We have several sets to compare things to, 3 sets of Dynaspheres, a Cyclop set and a bunch of Aramith Pro sets as well as a few Aramith Tournament sets I play with. The marks on the cueball from breaking with a hard tip and from chalk residue happen way more on the Dynasphere sets. The Armaiths don't get those marks, playing on the same tables with the same equipment and players, and the chalk does not stick as much to those balls either. The Dynasphere cueball is more porous, softer or both than the Aramith, at least Pro and above. I don't have the other cheaper sets to compare with. All the comparisons I post, shafts, tips, balls are done with the normal scientific method, meaning under the same conditions far as I can get them so the only variance is the thing I am trying out.
 
Those marks were only on the Dynaspheres not on our Armaith cueballs. This is my home table, it's an Olhausen, I took the pictures because I noticed the marks right away after using the balls, but also the same thing happened at a pool hall I play in that has two Dynaspher sets, not GC tables, furniture tables. We have several sets to compare things to, 3 sets of Dynaspheres, a Cyclop set and a bunch of Aramith Pro sets as well as a few Aramith Tournament sets I play with. The marks on the cueball from breaking with a hard tip and from chalk residue happen way more on the Dynasphere sets. The Armaiths don't get those marks, playing on the same tables with the same equipment and players, and the chalk does not stick as much to those balls either. The Dynasphere cueball is more porous, softer or both than the Aramith, at least Pro and above. I don't have the other cheaper sets to compare with. All the comparisons I post, shafts, tips, balls are done with the normal scientific method, meaning under the same conditions far as I can get them so the only variance is the thing I am trying out.
You ought to contact Bill Dunne at Championship. I showed him these pics and he said they've had no problems. Also contacted Main St. Billiards in Mesa as i knew they had bought a bunch of Bronze sets. So far they've had no issues.
 
You ought to contact Bill Dunne at Championship. I showed him these pics and he said they've had no problems. Also contacted Main St. Billiards in Mesa as i knew they had bought a bunch of Bronze sets. So far they've had no issues.

Nothing in the cueballs from them actually were "bad" as in chips or anything that affected the game, just a bit of extra stuff that happens to them that I don't see happening in the Aramith sets. Ask that billiard place to send you some pictures of their cueballs. I was actually at the pool hall several times and totally forgot to take out the sets to compare them game to game. I was planning on cleaning both cueballs, and playing several games with them, including breaking with a harder tip break cue, then examine them. I know that while the pictures I have are from my home set, the same thing was visible on the cueballs at the pool hall.
 
Nothing in the cueballs from them actually were "bad" as in chips or anything that affected the game, just a bit of extra stuff that happens to them that I don't see happening in the Aramith sets. Ask that billiard place to send you some pictures of their cueballs. I was actually at the pool hall several times and totally forgot to take out the sets to compare them game to game. I was planning on cleaning both cueballs, and playing several games with them, including breaking with a harder tip break cue, then examine them. I know that while the pictures I have are from my home set, the same thing was visible on the cueballs at the pool hall.
Have very limited experience comparing these detailed nuances, but on my home table env, I play with Aramith Tournament set but I have all the major CB brands. I find the black logo Aramith CB that comes with the Tournament set and the Cyclops Tournament CB (single large red spot that comes with Cyclops pro set (“skittle balls”) - both attract noticeably less chalk marks and are much easier to clean - vs all the others (measles, red circle, centennial blue circle , etc)
 
Nothing in the cueballs from them actually were "bad" as in chips or anything that affected the game, just a bit of extra stuff that happens to them that I don't see happening in the Aramith sets. Ask that billiard place to send you some pictures of their cueballs. I was actually at the pool hall several times and totally forgot to take out the sets to compare them game to game. I was planning on cleaning both cueballs, and playing several games with them, including breaking with a harder tip break cue, then examine them. I know that while the pictures I have are from my home set, the same thing was visible on the cueballs at the pool hall.
I just talked to the mgr. at MainSt and they said they've had zero issues with any of the D'sphere balls even when using g10 tips. A friend that plays there told me same thing. Why yours are doing that is beyond me. Its not from balls colliding and normally any cb damage from superhard tips is a little circular flaw in the finish. Never seen marks likes these unless caused by protruding screws/tacks/nails. Are your pockets nailed/tacked in place?
 
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Have very limited experience comparing these detailed nuances, but on my home table env, I play with Aramith Tournament set but I have all the major CB brands. I find the black logo Aramith CB that comes with the Tournament set and the Cyclops Tournament CB (single large red spot that comes with Cyclops pro set (“skittle balls”) - both attract noticeably less chalk marks and are much easier to clean - vs all the others (measles, red circle, centennial blue circle , etc)
The d'shpere balls use same phenolic resin as the cyclop balls. made in same factory with same equipment.
 
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